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  1. Hi Everyone. I have an intermittant problem has been going on for a while, perhaps several issues have been at play. On rare occasions the car would cut out completely and not start, or fire at all. When was in that state there was no fuel at the cylinders and the fuel pump not running. I could make the pump go with the test connector. It would always come right eventually so I've often thought the problem was solved after fixing some issue or another. Oxgen sensor, fuel filter and air filter have been replaced. The airflow meter was definitely not sending the right signals, it's been replaced Fuel pressure regulator was replaced but apparently I didn't need to do that Throttle position sensor is good The igniter was suspect and has been replaced i've been driving it quite a bit lately and thought all was good, but then engine cut out for moment - half a second or so - and carried on. That actually happened a few times in the past too. It hasn't cut out completely since replacing the igniter. This hardly ever happens so it'll be hard to find through testing but maybe people with experience could suggest something. This is the first time I've played with cars. I know very little but I'm reading a lot and learning slowly.
  2. Hola amigos, It's been a while since I've been a part of the forum. Anyway I didn't seriously start learning how to drive til I had saved up enough and could afford my own car. Usually older than most. And my grandma used to taunt me about younger cousins getting their restricted and cars before me... Well now my Grandma's at her final resting place and I got a faster car than my cousins I got a few choice words for ya grandma!! jk I love my grandma but it's a shame I can't drive her round cos that'd be fun. Anyway first car was an 04 Suzuki Swift, while that was allgood for being normal and safe and economical it was an automatic cos back then I thought who wants to be effing round with gears at give way signs.. I used to get paid lessons as a teenager 4-5 years before getting money for my own car yeah parents didnt trust me/yelled too much.. got rid of that car after owning for a year. I bided my time between jobs and giving self employment a go I got a chance to rekindle my love for cars and eventually when I got the money I decided first priority would be a car. It had to be rear wheel driven manual and decently quick. With a modest budget of 3k I thought an MX-5 would be legit but I only really liked the British racing green NA that comes with tan leather interior nardi wood steering wheel and gear knob. I didn't want to pay 3 grand for any other mx-5. And my other favourite, the 190E (because the Evo Cossies just look the business and are mean as) only came in auto. I was thinking of going FWD and getting an Integra til I stumbled on the MR2 and decided that I'd check it out. At first I was intimidated being in the drivers seat and couldn't even drive manual so got it towed cross Auckland home. Til I got my first paid lesson from a guy who also was a car enthusiast, I was scared but his technical approach to driving was notches above any other instructor I got lessons from so I stuck with him, practiced driving at night, got restricted on black friday and the rest is history. Also been thinking if it's old school or not... I think it is, but seeing as this car was made from like 1990 - 2000(?) with minor cosmetic changes i.e. wings/wheels/tail lights and better engines/suspension design over time, then it isn't. And IMO It was a design ahead of its time looks wise, whereas cars from the same year from like France or Australia were still stuck in the 80s looks wise. And also when you take into account the oldness of oldschool cars on here I think this section is more appropriate. Since my ownership I've done: - clean air filter - change wipers and battery and gear knob shit - oil and filter change - coolant change - cleaned general gunk and slime - learnt how to detail, club member friend who details professionally taught me a few things - bought a set of wheels that had tyres too big so learnt lesson - painted front and rear bumper; had a crash with front, rear was peeling, albeit in the wrong shade, also learnt from mistakes with this What needs to be done? - tiny bits of rust** - new rubber, rear tyres getting bald and will most likely be Potenzas on the wheels I'm getting from Japan through Alex / ML Racing** - clutch is worn, not slipping (yet)** - pro respray, paintwork all over to red but a shade I like, car has been keyed by some fuckboy** - body kit, pro fitted** - engine swap, blacktop from Altezza, 1uz-fe, 2gr-fe, 2zz-gze** - headlight alignment and new bulbs** - need missing indicators for safety** Now for some pics.
  3. Discussion for the Corona coupe, would love to know about any others in NZ. Compared to the Celica there are far fewer photos and much less info on the Internet about them. Cheers!
  4. For discussion on my car, please visit - //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/48408-scrmntoys-1983-toyota-ae85-discussion/ My AE85 project purchased in April 2015. 1983 Toyota Trueno Sprinter with Levin front end. 187,800km on the clock, only traveled 10,000km since 2004, has been in storage for the last 3 years and owned by previous owner for 8 years. Originally imported to NZ in 1991 to Dunedin. Has been a Dunedin car up until the previous owner moved up to the Bay of Plenty. Plans for the AE85 is to turn it into a nice tidy street car with tasteful mods. So far the hard work has been done and is just a matter of improving on whats already been done and tidying up the panel and paint. 4age 2nd gen bigport with 7 rib block, Factory exhaust headers with free flow exhaust. AE86 2 piece driveshaft and with open diff, rear disc brakes, old owner said said diff is from a celica but unsure of this yet as he wasn't 100% certain Nolothane bushes throughout all suspension components T series box, unsure of what model yet, K-Sport Coilovers, All certed - Also says reinforced rear shock towers on plate 17x7 wheels with spacers (bit too big for car I feel and wrong styling for the error or the car) Came with 13x7 rims aswell. Currently temporarily have put my 15x7 wheels off my AE92 as 17s aren't the best to drive with. Fibreglass bonnet with bonnet pins.
  5. Hey guys I'm new to this forum and just wanted to share my project that I'm trying to restore
  6. Hey knowledgeable Ninjas, Manual steering sucks. I'm over it. I've been trying to piece together enough knowledge to find an alternative but the bits and pieces I've picked up keep sending me in circles. I've got other plans for the car, but before all that it's biggest short fall is the steering. There were factory power steering units for this car but hell if I can find one. Apparently Crowns up to an S110 have the similar/same power steering, but modification to the pitman arm is needed. That's no big deal but I can't find a wrecked one of these either. I've seen crowns on line with whole different steering columns, so is it a case of finding the matching dimensions and custom fitting it in? With all this in mind, I have a 2J under the hood and the mid/rear sump in there has been notched to fit the drag link/centre link arm. And a fatter power steering unit will get in the way. Is there such a thing as a power assisted version of a manual steering box? Where the power assist happens further up the column and I can keep the current centre link set up for sump clearance? Or am I talking bollocks, and all power steering happens downstairs which means I'll need a new "true" mid sump, or front sump and custom cross member to fit? Any info or links to info would be greatly appreciated. Cheers.
  7. Test test test, 1, 2, 3.
  8. Discuss. Project thread. //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/42941-jtc3ds-ms65-crown-build/ Chur.
  9. Build Thread Home and tucked up in the garage
  10. Hey guys a couple of days ago I tried to start my 4k and as I was cranking it over I realised that I had removed the distrubtor rotor so I put that back in and still no go. And it was going sweet prior to this So as it is it has no spark Still has a points ignition Have tested the coil and found it had shorted itself Placed another coil in and wired one to the positive feed and earthed the other to the engine And I'm still not getting any spark Have checked all the fuses As it is water is leaking onto the relays Still need to test them Does anyone had any simlair issues Any ideas would be greatly appreciated
  11. Hey team I am wanting to swap the carb out on my Toyota 4k-u. Motor has only had small amount of work (mild cam, free flow exhaust, and full internal freshen up) I have currently got a Weber 32/36 on it and personally im not a fan, needs rejetting and some modification to the throttle linkage to make it feel nicer on the pedal and drive as it should. I thought about just rebuilding a factory aisan carb but they are crap out of the factory anyway so dont see the point. I dont want to spend huge money. I have been looking into a nikki carb off the likes of a mazda b2000 or similar (because they can be bolted onto a factory manifold with little to no modification to manifold or throttle linkage) but i cant find any info out on factory jet size or venturi size to compare to the aisan or weber carb specs. Does anyone know the specs of these nikki carbs? My google searches have found little to no relevant information Or any other suggestions to carbs that would be well suited as a small upgrade. heard datsun l18 carbs are worth looking into aswell Any information or feedback appreciated
  12. Kia Ora! Brief history of my 'Rona. I bought at the end of last year to be my daily drive. It was good nick with just over 230k's on the clock and on the test drive it felt nice and tight apart from one knock coming from the back. The knock was from the exhaust hitting the tow bar which resulted in getting a new rear muffler. I opted to get from the axle back a 2" exhaust set up with a "sports" muffler to give a nice rumble. Also when I picked it up from the previous owner he gave me a set of lowering springs for the front end so I chucked them in. After driving around like this for a wee while I noticed the radiator leaking/showing signs of "wetting" and rotting. Time for a rad swap! I used a Scarles Civic "half rad" as it was cheap and was going to be easy to make some brackets to install. I also figured, even though it is small it would still do a better job of the current set up. The factory shroud for the fan wouldn't fit the new rad and I had a spare electric fan off my GT4 project so I figured I would ditch the old clutch fan as well. Simple brackets to make it fit in the factory location. Welded up thanks to DKM over in Wairau. At the same time as replacing the rad, I needed to fix an exhaust leak and clean out the starter motor. When I took the exhaust manifold off I noticed a leak coming from the welch/frost/core plugs. Turns out they were almost rusted all the way through so in went a new set of those. After seeing the inside of the water jackets I decided that it would be best to change the water pump as well and for piece of mind I got a new thermostat and a couple of gaskets. This is what the final install looked like. I'm yet to wire in my thermo switch for the fan so currently its on all the time. After dorting around like this for maybe 3 weeks I notice a coolant leak coming from around the head/coolant inlet pipe. I figured it would just be one of the new gaskets that I put in not sealing but after more investigation I found some oil mixed in with coolant dribbling down the side of the block. Bugger. Head gasket was on the way out. I've never really cracked open a motor before and on my GT4 I had the motor rebuilt professionally but that cost me an arm and a leg and the neighbours dog. Seeing as the Corona had a very simple 3T motor I thought I would get amongst and do it myself. After whipping the head off it was easy to see where the head gasket was failing. The whole motor was actually looking in bad shape. It was obvious that there hadn;t been any actual coolant run through the motor for quite some time as there was heaps of corrosion in the head and the water galleries on the block where pretty bad as well. After stripping and cleaning the head I decided that it would be best to get it acid dipped to get ride of all the crap out of it and depending on how that came up whether or not to get it surfaced. Whilst tidying up the rest of engine bay I poked around the lifters for the push rods and discovered really sludgy oil with way to much grit and grim in it. What condition was the bottom end it??? The decision was made and after a long night I pulled the motor and gearbox out (go simple old school cars that only need one person) and stripped it right down. The oil pan had heaps of crap in it so I'm glad I did. I sent all the essentials to West Auckland Engine Reconditioners and they acid dipped the crank, pistons, rods, head and all the other stuff. New bearings where ordered (after struggling to find any) and piston rings and gasket sets for the whole motor. The rebuilders honed the block, polished the crank, skimmed the fly wheel and surfaced the head. I put the head back together on the weekend and I picked up the rest of the parts yesterday.
  13. So last year I decided I wanted a project can so started hunting around. Being young and dumb I sold my 96 Toyota levin and got my self a 1975 Corona from a friend of a friend. The car had been sitting in her shed for around 4yrs. on first inspection I could tell it needed a lot of work. So I came back with a friend to try get it running. I told myself that if we couldn't get it started it was a no go. After giving it a quick once over topping up fluids and having to go get some fuel we managed to pull start it. So I handed over the cash and drove it home... Great start. First issue presented itself as I got home in the form of a split fuel hose. First things replaced: Fuel hose and filter, oil and filter change and a new set of tyres. Next I started work on the rust. This took me months and is still on going. I have done all work myself so far with assistance from my old man and a mate once or twice. Fast forward to 2015 the car has not had any work done in a few months but I'm back on track to getting it up and running. State of the car: it is running a 18RGEU from a Celica GT and 5speed gearbox to match (done by previous owner) car has been lowered and a ridiculous muffler has been installed as well (also by previous owner). The car is currently primer grey (used to be orange) and still has a little bit of rust to deal with but nothing major. I am in the process of getting the engine running properly, having issues getting a spark. Ruled out spark plugs, coil, igniter. I replaced the main coil lead as it was faulty so replaced it but still no joy. can't wait to get it on the road! (Photos are of how it looked when I first got it)
  14. Discussion thread: //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/40381-shakotoms-1985-toyota-hilux/ Once upon a time i went off roading with a mate and decided it was fun playing in the mud. a period of time went by and I was driving my dads safari to work and was like yeah... I could put up with this. So i did some research and semi decided i wanted something with a solid front and rear end, that would be easy to maintain and relatively reliable. I thought about a Safari as I really like my dads but decided they were a bit out of my price range. So i though Toyotas are pretty bulletproof... so HiLux? Did a bit more hunting and found heaps of IFS ones. Eventually some solid axle ones turned up and i narrowed it down to two i was interested in. One being a real tidy 1990 single cab with brand new tyres, Rego, Wof and harldy any issues. The other being well the complete opposite. yet again the heart ruled over the head... So i towed home this ratty and rusty hilux because i liked the earlier front end rather than the newer one. Looking back it wouldve been easier to buy the later model one and source a earlier set of guards ect from a wreckers I knew it had a bit of rust in places in the body, but everything else appeared to be sweet and it drove fine. The more poking around I actually did after i got it home revealed actually how crappy it was. As i was told my one of my mates 'Ive seen better in a junkyard' and as i researched more about it there was way more missing, cut out or just not there in general than I realised. The surface rust in the fire wall and floor turned into a hole, after stripping the interior to see the extent of the rust i found it had got into the wiper channel aswell. the bit of rust in the sills turned in to big holes. The aftermarket bucket seats were barely held in by dodgy looking brackets. someone had cut a gaping hole in and the lower part of the radiator support was missing also. rear brakes were seized and pedal disappeared to the floor. and the chassis/components had copped a can of black over the top of dirt/grease/muck which was peeling off. But on a better note. The set of pretty much brand new 33x12.5 mud tyres my dad had on his pajero fit this, Its got a 2in lift on EFS springs, and the same on the body. The LSD in the rear appears flamin tight, and it fitted 99% of my wants from a fourby. Plus its a HiLux... There pretty much bullet proof. (well I dont think TopGear tested that, but it withstood pretty much everything they could drop on it, it off, drive it in to, going for a swim and their genral crazyness) Now ive had this a couple of months actually and in the doing so proceeded to start removing things to inspect/clean/repair/or replace as applicable, But that went way further than intended. Once the interior was removed, and the gearbox was out to replace the clutch, the engine came out too because it was too dodgy leaving it there without a rear mount, Dad and i decided that it was 6 bolts and we could lift the body off real easy to get rid of the gunk on the chassis. So we did. Next thing the chassis had been completely stripped and bare metalled, leaf springs split to individual leaves and both diffs dissassembled and everything has been given the once over. The chassis was covered in about a centimeter of gunk on the outside and we probably got about 10L of sand out if the inside of the chassis. Im pretty sure theres still more in there but weve shaken it, flipped it, banged it, and blown it out as best as we possibly can. So im quite happy with it Both diffs were dissassembled, baremetalled, and inspected. The front axle seals were leaking so the steering knuckle was full of an oil/grease mixture which smelt fantastic. apart from that both diffs checked out, So Ive etch primed and painted both diffs black reassembled them and ordered a swivel kit for the front. The chassis been etchprimed and blacked also. Hopefully itll stick a bit better and also make future cleaning of it alot easier. During all that, The leaf springs have been cleaned up and painted as well as the associated componentry. Every single Ubolt fought with me when being undone. My rattle gun wouldnt crack them and ended up having to use a meter long pipe over a power bar to undo them and then they all proceded to break or bend. So new EFS ones were ordered off 4WDBits with a EFS shackle bush kit. which were installed along with the reassembled leaf springs onto the chassis Excuse the tiny little tyres, but its alot easier to work on with them on The front leaf springs have been put back in and the diffs almost ready to go in aswell, but i managed to drop the hub on my foot and now have a cast on it for a week to immobilse it while whatevers wrong with it fixes itself. So hopefully thats off by the end of the week and itll just have to be strapped up. So lesson learnt. HiLux hubs plus feet = Less than ideal
  15. discussion thread for my project ae70 4age drop. fire away
  16. ok here we go, 1982 flat front AE70 currently running 3a-u with webers and lumpy cam. rings have pretty well gone so its time for a 4age. here is the car as is currently: link to discussion thread here: //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/46777-sams-ae70-project-4age-16v/
  17. Picked this up the other week with help from Todd (driftnmaz). Its got a 3a which is running quite rough at the moment, with a 4 speed t50 (3rds fucked). The high tech rubbish bag is because we cant get the window into its tracks (hopefully fix it this weekend) The clutch is fucked and its got a lockie in it. Has a bit of rust, which has just been bogged up for now. Plans are to get it wofed and regoed ASAP, then attempt to drift with the 3a, slam, wheels and after ive gotten used to it im going to be dropping a 4age in. When i do the 4age im going to do all the rust properly. It came with a SHIT load of spares, which i still havent gotten through. Discuss here: viewtopic.php?f=18&t=35283
  18. CURRENTLY HOW I GOT IT Discussion Thread //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/44469-toyota-boys-1975-toyota-corona-discussion/?hl=rt100#entry1362733
  19. Hi all, I wanted to share a project that i have been working on for the past few weeks after coming to the last Auckland old school meet i was convinced i needed a second car to exercise my mechanical ideas on. It started as a 1987 Toyota Corona which was listed on Trademe, With its 2.0L Fuel injected engine and Front wheel/Automatic characteristics i figured i could get it cheap and make it an awesome weekend hack. After test driving it, and finding out that the thing drove great (No spluttering, jerking or grinding) i picked it up for $600, It needed some minor rust repair and a new battery. When i got it back to the garage i changed the plugs, oil, oil filter, checked the filter and picked up a second hand battery, After that it ran great! Some JB Weld and some spare aluminium i had covered up the rust nice, at the same time i got the windsheild replaced. We went to pick-a-part mangere and found some seats out of a volvo, we ripped all the carpet out, took out the rear seats/belts and mounted the new seats. I nabbed some cheap steelies which has been widened and got them redrilled by the good blokes at Arrow Wheels, I'm going to have to get some adaptors to fit on the fronts to clear the brakes, but the backs look great. Also we rolled the guards with a baseball bat, turned out pretty good. I'm going to be doing plenty more work on it, so i will keep this updated. And for the record, i know this may not come under 'old school' age, but i reckon it holds a lot of the old school spirit and the front still has that older toyota look, And this thing was built/assembled in Thames! Right in our backyard and that has to count for something. Shout out to: Mk2Marty and Benzover for the many many days of help Some more photodumping
  20. I was driving today and while pressing the clutch down to move up to third gear it sounded like something broke, a sort of knock noise. It wasn't a violent knock, just soft. So now the clutch pedal feels loose, and it will not go into gear easily or at all, my dad had to do some sort of gear rpm timing maneuver to change through the gears without having to engage the clutch so we could get home. So I know it is probably nothing to do with the gearbox, and maybe with the clutch kit. The problem is I dont know where to look for parts that may have broken. Does anyone know what may have happened and how it can be fixed? Thanks The car is a KE20 with a 4k motor.
  21. Hey all, I'm trying to find a complete wiring diagram for my build, and it seems pulling complete ones from the net is proving difficult. I can get input diagrams for the back of the computer, but nothing on wiring layouts. Can anyone recommend a good source for finding these? I'm specifically looking for one for an 2001 Toyota Altezza Gita (or Lexus IS300 Sportcross), but a point in the right direction would be awesome! I'll carry on trawling forums in the meantime. Cheers Inerweb gurus and analogue warriors alike!
  22. Hey automotive ninjas, I have a few questions I need answers to. I'm gonna look them up on the interwebs, but I thought I'd throw them out to you guys as well. You may have some quick answers for me that'll save me some googling time. Does the 2jz-ge vvti have a fuel bar overflow return system? The 3"8 outlet pipe at the back of the block under the manifold. Is it for a heater pipe or engine cooling? Will the power steering sensor in the engine computer cause problems, if we loop the outlet to the return on the power steering pump? Or there a better way to do it? Is it easier to just take the power steering pump off the engine and run a shorter belt? I hope those make sense. Any help would be much apprech! Cheers guys.
  23. Hey all, I'm doing a 2jz-ge swap into an MS65 crown and am currently sourcing a radiator. I can go to a wreckers for a modern one and fab it into the engine bay, but the origional has a sweet fitment in the front bumper. So I was thinking with a cooling fan added would the origional be enough to cool the new engine? I'm googling this as well, but since this is such a great crown community, someone might have already tackled this problem. Cheers boys and girls.
  24. My Mums partner scored me this mark II for my 21st!! he got it off his dad who has owned and garaged it for the last 20 years, has a 1.8 1s u, 4 speed manual w55 box, 175XXX, completely stock. This is also my first car that I want to put money into/first rwd manual car.
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