maxted

Calipers have been sandblasted and given a lick of paint. Have new pads and caliper kits, hope to put the kits in the calipers over the weekend and get the master back on.

Booster and spacer is in, need to shorten the linkage between booster and pedal by 20mm then should fit well, will dig out the brake lines from the donor ute to suit the new master cylinder position and the vacuum hard line for the booster.

awesome to see some more old mazdas on oldschool! cool coupe man

Disc's are on, swapping over to the drum hub and keeping the 1st gen steering link worked well. one thing had forgot about is disc's foul the standard 14" wheels so might see if i can get some spacers, I have plenty of room to play with, some spacers 20-30ish millimetres would make it clear I think. Another bonus the brake hoses are the same even.

Yeah I agree looks really good on hub caps and whitewalls, cool that its a ke20 2 door don't see many here in NZ.

made a start cleaning up the bits needed for the disc swap, The booster spacer is welded, need to shorten the booster rod by 20mm and drill and tap it. Just painting everything for now, I almost have enough spares of most thing's I'm thinking of dropping a set of arms, backing plates ect off to get powder coated and swap it all out at a later date. Just need to clean up the booster and finish painting everything. This week hopefully can go get a caliper kit and some new hoses/pads and have a go at swapping it all in.

that airbox is awesome man! really cool you are keeping it twin dizzy!

Nah just the intake and dizzy its all up in Auckland otherwise would of grabbed the block, didn't check if it had power steering or not, and I'm not sure about the steering box either. Thats pretty cool with the dizzy, does yours run a crank sensor as well?

hopefully should get it next week, I have got the intake set-up and the dizzy coming at this point, Nothing else i should be grabbing before he drops it to the freight depot? I'm going to go with an aftermarket ecu so haven't bothered getting the ecu or airflow meter ect. The dizzy looks to be electronic so I got that chucked in even tho I wont need it as I might try mod an old points one into a cam angle sensor.

Awesome shed man that is so cool, awesome project, I have always loved that red tudor! has a hemi v8 if i remember right? It was always at muscle car madness with the scavengers car club they all had some really cool cars

Also finally found a EGI Intake, have been keeping an eye out for one for awhile now. Plan is to start from scratch with the wiring as its a mess, have got a painless fuse box to make a start, then start gathering the bits needed to run the engine EFI.

Modified/made the booster spacer/bracket, just need to get it welded now, really should get a mig. bit slow making the holes with the drill then grinding out with a burr atleast wont see them. started cleaning up the disc backing plates ect ready for some paint.

Nice work, I have thought about doing the mx5 engine swap myself, have seen a couple done. would definitely go better than the stock engine and EFI would be good. I had the same issue with the steering link with the built in ball joint, I had the guys at SAS in Nelson send it away to be done.

Yeah man would be cool to see some more mazda utes on here I compared them yesterday and it would work so makes it a fairly easy swap over

Really cool what you have done so far, nice work. going to be such a nice car when you finish it.

After a bit of comparing I've found the drum hub and disc hub are the same apart from the top balljoint tapered hole being bigger in the 2nd gen and the thread being different for the wheel bearing nut/split pin. The drum backing plate and the disc backing plate (has caliper bracket mounts as part of it) use the same bolt flange, and the wheel bearings are the same. So I can keep my arms and steering and just bolt on the disc backing plate, calipers, rotors/hub. done some measuring and it looks like I need to copy my mates booster tube, I'm just not going to shorten mine as much as his so I can still remove the clutch master cylinder without having to remove the booster.

Thats a good link just signed up too

Hey Dragon, I didn't know that there was two sizes available, Nice you got a thread on your ute? Awesome I had been told i would need to swap that piece that the tierods connect to to keep all my steering the same, I'm about to pull a drum hub to pieces and measure the bearing sizes as it looks like the backing plate for the discs has the same bolt flange as the drum backing plate. so if i can just bolt the disc backing plate on and swap the hubs over that would make it pretty simple and keep all my new balljoints ect. with the booster it looks like I will just do the same as my mate has done the tube needs to be the bigger size to go over where the rod going to the pedal leaves the booster for atleast 50-60mm so it makes sense the way he has made it

had a look at mounting the booster and master cylinder today, the tube that spaces the booster away from the firewall is going to need some modifications or make another to suit the existing master cylinder bolting pattern, spoke to a mate who has just recently done the swap he sent me a photo of his set-up (attached photos), he modded his tube to step down to a smaller size tube big enough for the booster rod but small enough to work with firewall bolt pattern. Im thinking of completely remaking it using the smaller tube and bracing it either end and support it similar to how it was in the 2nd gen courier with a mount of the inner guard

I searched for your thread after you mentioned you did the disc swap but no pictures show at all. cool I'm hoping that is the case to retain all the new bushes and ball joints ect already put on. need to dig out my spares to compare between them.

@mutiny I swapped it all to right hand thread when i first put the chassis together as i had stripped a couple of well past saving b1600's and had enough spares. Had they gone to right hand thread all round on the 2nd gen? one thing i haven't checked. can you remember when you put discs on yours if you used the top and bottom arms of the 2nd gen? or did the hub fit the first gen balljoints?

just read this thread for the first time, awesome work. looks so good in red with the gold wheels

yeah it looks it in the photo, maybe just thats its not vented?

After putting the front back together, thought I should look into getting the disc brakes ready to go on. stripped them down ready to clean up. will compare top and lower arms next to see if need to use the 2nd gen ones. list of parts needed and part numbers for reference brake pads - JB-F50FF / DB292 Wheel bearings - outer 30204 inner 30206 rotors measured 20.2 ish and the min is 19mm so might just skim these for now and track down some new rotors can put on later. will clean up the booster/extension tube, has a 13/16 master. hopefully not to much to fit the tube with just adding some new holes in the fire wall.

Cool shaped crown, looks like you are making some good progress nice