tim13

another possible alternative is , some nissans have tps as part of accelerator pedal assembly , might be able to wire in one of those ....... good luck/have fun cheers Tim

leads are wire core , with suppressors screwed on the ends , you used to be able to buy ends separately and a roll of wire lead to make your own , will still be pricey if you have to do the lot , vacuum leaks are usually pretty easy to find on these most common spot is headlight adjusters , occasionally central locking , only a few vacuum lines to engine itself which can be isolated pretty quickly to help confirm location of fault , cheers Tim

hey buddy , m104 motors are usually pretty good . oil leak will be headgasket and/or 'c' seal on timing chain cover , should be able to get both done for about $1000-1200 parts and labour friendlyish retail , what is the rough running issue ? what have you tried/checked so far , could be wiring loom insulation breaking up , airflow meter , could be something basic too , is yours coil on plug or distributor on front of engine ? (if dizzy ; cap and rotor will have green stuff growing inside) good luck ! cheers Tim , PS ; all realistic DIY stuff if you are keen/carefull & probably not as expensive as engine conversion/certification

other 'oldschool' trick was to remove every second impeller blade (only advisable if you have an even number to start with .......) some factory pumps used on a variety of engines are identical except for impeller , theory is you are trying to stop either too much cavitation at high rpm and/or water can pass through radiator before it is cooled properly , as mentioned above changing pulley sizes is a good way to solve lots of these issues if practical/possible/affordable

accelerator pumps working ? if you look down carbs and open throttle how much fuel comes out ? hope that helps , cheers Tim

AMEN

hey buddy , Elite in chch used to do some good work , reasonably quick turnaround too .... also Arrow in auck are supposed to be pretty good , I just stumbled on my old zed pics will actually get on to sending em to ya !

had a similar problem with my old mk2 was starter in my case but battery terminals and battery le ads can give that sort of symptom , you can use jumperleads to bypass battery leads to help eliminate those quickly , hope it is an easy find/fix

keep in touch , sure we can sort something , and one side at a time is the way to go , only issues are seized bits and getting torsen indexing correct , gets more camber as you get lower so may tuck in nicely .........

hi Charlie , to lower the rear move torsen bars one spline they sit nicely and still have reasonable travel , let me know if you need any advice I have done 6 or 7 ! (fronts sit captive and level with 1 1/2 to 2 coils chopped , if you want to go that way) cheers Tim

thanks for that , will pass on details , they are looking for a cheapish but sound repair , so sounds like Lewton could be the place to start . cheers Tim

hi guys and gals , just had a call from some friends who need some structural rust repairs for a wof , sounds like rear suspension pickup points / floorpan areas on a mk2 escort , they are Wellington city but am pretty sure they will travel for the right deal , call or text them on 0274201000 or post here or message me and I will pass it on

good effort , love a simple fix ! (just goes to show ALWAYS start with the basics)

just sitting there , central cover holds them down , good luck

this is the intake air temp sensor , they do crap out but wouldnt give the symptoms you have , the afm and maf sensor is the same thing mounted on intake pipe near air filter , can give your symptoms but unusual to break so soon

have spent a bit of time working on these things , from what you describe I would pull the coils could be as simple as moisture around them , have also seen a few coils arc out - pull the cover out (above plugs/coils) start engine you can hear or see the spark , also the enginebay wiring looms on these crap out (all the insulation falls off leaving bare wires) which causes some fun problems ! hope that helps

4x32 is prob much more total diameter than you have currently so will come down to jetting and setup , also remember bikes rev higher and you will have more vacuum being 2l vs 600cc , and with 40mm webbers/dellortos you run chokes of between 32 and 38mm anyway , hope that makes sense (still learning about bike carbs since buying a car with em fitted)

had good results with mine by immobilising t-vis running mega ignition advance (20- 25 at idle , total advance 35 - 40 , I think) and retarding intake cam 1/2 tooth (using other slot in cam pulley) I also ran a bigger throttlebody but that took a bit of engineering , as stated above light weight , tyres , exhaust , practice launching to suss revs and bog/spin ratio , poor mans lsd - big burnout heats r/f tyre then l/f spins on launch should hook up ok (mine went round rwd and 4wd on good days) sound like fun , yay cheap motorsport

UPDATE , got a call from owner last night , was driving car when idle suddenly jumped from 1500 to over 3k , he has adjusted idle and seems to be running sweet so appears to have fixed itself (holding breath) he is going to check timing and advance to confirm

That makes it sound like you have a vacuum retard situation no vacuum advance on ae82 unless triggered by map sensor ? but map sensor appears to be working fine

should say I sold my wrx and bought a spitfire cause sick of bizare (expensive) stuff and like low tech and adjustable ................. first thing that happens electronic ignition craps out so now fully low tech points , condensor , carbs ...... may even go mechanical fuelpump ! but I still want to sort the fxgt for a mate , he is hunting a tps to borrow , double checked camtiming all good , timing just retards to nothing and doesnt start to advance until throttle is released ....... any masochists in chch who need something to take their minds off earthquakes ! ideal candidate works cheap and late and has own supply of 4age parts !!!!!

so what we are saying is we have found a common mechanical/electrical problem on a Toyota that there is no solution for !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I H A T E to be beaten , will update as I find stuff , car now moved from the 04 to the 03 so now working remotely just to clarify the only thing changed since it was running properly is the bottom end head sensors manifolds ecu body etc all same old same old , has been sitting a while though !

UPDATE , managed to get car running/driving ok with timing mega advanced and TPS unplugged , will try another TPS and see what happens

all original dizzy and head used , wires stayed in plug , plug only fits one way , I am still guessing its something simple I am missing , will post when I find it

ANY IDEAS