tim13

yeah , that would give you a pretty good idea (dial guage would be better) remember intake and exhaust may be different , another thing to look at is how much difference there is in tappet adjusters if one is heaps further in/out it may be a clue , also when you set tappets are you batch setting or pairs ? opposing pairs (rocking on 1 set on 4 etc) is better for acuracy . good luck !

are valves all opening a similar amount ? maybe worn a cam lobe ?

can you swap struts left to right and would that give more options and clear steering ?

is it possible to machine just the mounting half of the caliper to create room for an adapter to link it all together ?

hq front discs (which are the hubs too) go straight on a triumph 2.5 stub . rears I haven't done but apparently some bmw stuff can work ok

I do like a guessing game , 140hp at wheels

it could be excessive toe out on decel at either end (toe out can encourage turn in , so too much can be twitchy) if you have non factory springs bushes etc running factory alignment may not be as good as custom settings to match custom components . good luck ..... sounds scary . also if you have new components it might be worth spanner checking too

check front too , can transfer diagonally if that makes sense ?

cracked rotor can be sudden , will kick through pedal , your description sounds more like its thrown a wheel weight or delaminating tyre , if sudden and bad should be easy to find ..... good luck

everyone works to a budget the size does vary though ! I have always tried to maximize results using stock/cheap parts with some success , I used to judge "improvements" with a third gear run between two points (in and out a tunnel) if I always entered at the same speed and floored it my exit speed was up or down dependant on the "improvement" (I picked up more than 10kph in my old fxgt)

I meant bigger pipe except air flow meter , if the afm is the main restricter in the system bigger pipes pre and post should still flow more than same size throughout , fascinating stuff though , always nice to see a good reality/theory balance

so , you may have this covered , but ; if your air intake goes up what was the fuel system doing ? if lean that could explain pinking and knock sensor pulls timing causing power drop as a result ? EDIT , have noticed thats air-mass not power on that graph , same test with a bigger pipe would be interesting ...... you may have that sussed though

hey buddy , a thought about your miss ; what spark plugs are you using ? injected triumphs seem to foul anything except champions (n9y ?) I use ngk in just about everything else but never had a good run with them in PI's , cheers Tim

is it getting a decent squirt of fuel (looking through carb) when you pump the accellerator ? have had a few issues with that on carbs that have been unused for a while . maybe worth checking for vacuum leaks too , they can give odd symptoms . any history on what has been worked on recently ? or how long it has been sitting ? webbers/dellortos usually start ok with 2-3 pumps and no choke

thats potentialy 3 problems !

22 degrees seems weak for a 4 cyl with carbs , cam , upped compression ? maybe advance till it pings or fights starter then remove 2-5 degrees . has always worked for me (often about 12-15 at idle) you could mess with spring and weights in your mech advance too

low buck option is ; blank off vacuum advance , set total advance at about 34 btdc (ie about 34 @ 3000rpm) and drive it like that , not sure on economy , but performance and drivability should be ok

hi mate , these coils are usually pretty good , you checked inside distributor cap ? pretty sure these can corode or fill with oil and do weird stuff . if it is the coil some mercedes have one the same - is there a pick-a-part down there ? cheers Tim

you still got the free low (just add 1/2 day) info I posted to your previous thread ?

thanks , that was what I needed to hear (not what I wanted to hear !) was planing to use rangerover bags rather than the helper kits but it is sounding too much of an expensive exercise for this car cheers Tim

alright team , if I add one of those airbag helper kits to the back of my leaf sprung falcon (to combine load capacity and low) will it require cert ? also , IF that is ok , is there any reason I cant/shouldnt remove a few leaves at the same time ? cheers Tim

I could be wrong but I would think -11 , EDIT thought too long well beaten ! and wrong , not my day !

I have had good success (twice this year !) start car and warm it up , turn off select second gear , foot on clutch , restart engine (some bunnyhopping) , drive with foot on clutch accelerate swiftly as poss then lift of suddenly , repeat untill it frees . never taken more than 1km for me , good luck , watch out for traffic

not sure if you have tried demontweeks for tyres , their pricing including shipping ended up cheaper for me than direct through toyo nz , worth a quick look , still wont be cheap though surely other brands will do something ?

not sure about Altezas but some cars have an alternator / charge fuse , worth checking all fuses before you remove the alternator , a bit of a longshot but its a cheap/easy longshot ! good luck and lots of good advice above