tim13

another thought on your tyre drama , given it is not a common size are they just old and hard ? check date codes on sidewall maybe different factory does tread rubber feel different to your other ones ? this is first bad feedback on T1rs I have heard , I know a few people who have loved them as a combined road/track compromise too

you tried different pressures ? in my experiences with T1rs they liked lots more pressure than some other brands (5-10 psi more , up to max rec on sidewall) cheaper than more tyres nitto do that size in semi-slick which everyone I know who has tried them loves , good luck

ooooohhhhhhhh , do I get a prize ? , glad its sorted buddy

glass that is bonded in is considered structural

beecham jags have all the airbags etc fitted , no mention on the cert plate though so I assume its a grey area ? odd though cause no crumple zone which is key to frontal impact regs on later stuff (bullbar or intercoolers etc are often an issue on Srs equiped cars)

hey Al ; is it going ? who was right / best guess ? dont make me come up there !

fuel leaks ? or when you loosen ? only ever trickles out of line to injector . pull caps off for a look cause they tend to crossfire on the shit that grows in them resulting in spark but not timed so wont go how does the wiring look ? insulation falls off the wires on them !

hi Al , 9 out of 10 times it is distributor caps & rotors they will be full of green shit , clean em out if it runs ok order new , startech in auckland is your best local option . fuel distributors and injectors are almost never an issue , pumps and relays sometimes are , and vac leaks and wiring looms occasionally too ........ you wait till you get asked to sort the roof !

it is always possible to adjust manually , it needs to be cause auto adjusters dont always adjust .... automatically , the 'baking' approach is average at best and is more suited to oil/brakefluid contaminated linings , good luck

pull other drum scuff shoes and drum with emery (sandpaper for engineers) adjust brake to suit and should be sweet

it is good practice to replace shoes and both cylinders , BUT , what you have done/are doing will be fine in most cases (life left in shoes no other leaks or seized parts , both cyls same size)

you been to see an engineering shop ? looks like the sort of thing they could knock up ? time frame might still be an issue if they are anything like the guy I use in wellie !

stirling brake and clutch in onehunga will probably have something

ummm , may have missed something in my quick read , but ; if you are getting fluid into the booster it is the hydaulic side leaking NOT the vacuum side , with a remote booster you in essence have two m/cyls one on the pedal one on the remote booster so its the 2nd one that has the issue and you should be able to hone/sleeve and match up seals .... appologies again if you had that figured and I missed it !

the man may be right vac hose issue is a possibility . if that doesn't solve it ; i have had similar symptoms on other things which have been caused by leaking fuel pressure reg diaphragms , can be hard to find if they are only leaking under vacuum . really liking your systematic approach and full disclosure of findings (so many of these threads stop without people explaining what they found) keep up the good work

that looked a handful/fun , couple of things to think about/try 1; thumbs up (not through spokes) I am told thumb and wrist injuries hurt like hell ! 2; if you run a little toe-out at the front the locked diff should be more driver friendly and sorting the ratio will help too . cheers Tim

ratios were designed around high speed autobahn touring the motors like revs and economy doesn't suffer too badly on nz roads

diff out of a 6 cyl w126 is a better ratio and same size , little to no chance of lsd with any merc diff though but no fabrication/cert required transforms the car even behind the auto

there are at least 4 or 5 different redline gear oils , soooo many people say ; use/dont use redline like there is only one type ! I have always been happy with the ones (different types in different applications) I have used . I have been told that the thought with race type oils is they only do one event and dont like sitting or constant use which kinda makes sense

solenoid separate from starter ? if you have checked EVERYTHING else it might be the issue , easy way to test is bypass (carefully) using jumper-leads , can also test earths same way

rivnuts have their place .... not sure it should be holding in your trans crossmember though ! I would look at drilling and tapping a suitable piece of flat bar

kevlar lining on sprung drive plate with heavy duty pressure plate should answer your question , pretty sure you can get one built to suit , Hi Tech brake and clutch should be able to make you something in Auckland or MP autoparts in wellington , I have used both over the years and would use either again I havent used Toda stuff but their reputation seems good (although I like having local backup , hence my suggestions)

doubled up , sorry

sounds a little optimistic , worth a try I spose . is the oil level rising ? worth checking fuel pump (engine driven ?) and breather system too because if it is getting alot of fuel in oil it is prob more than mixture being too rich

didyafixitdidyafixitdidyafixit ? always interested to hear results/solutions/tales of woe .........