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tim13

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Everything posted by tim13

  1. a bit more info on make & model might help us help you , have had similar symptoms with crank angle sensors (both stand alone and part of disy) also dodgey wiring or connecters are worth checking for including/especially battery terminals and earths . sounds like you will learn heaps through the process ! good luck
  2. almost worth repeating !
  3. hey buddy , pretty sure it will be the condenser , new ones are often useless , put old one back or try another new one ...... maybe even genuine or different suplier if possible . good luck
  4. na , 40's work great on a cammed L28 , will even run a 3.1 , absolute top end is the only area you would lose on but flexibility , throttle response and mid-range would be better than 45/8's
  5. not strictly legal , but you would be unlucky to get caught .......... I would do it (just wouldn't advise it
  6. wouldn't hurt to have a hard copy of your booking with you , if you wanted to be extra cautious maybe even run it through a wof check first so you have the fail sheet that says cert requires update ........... of course you may pass given the amount of wof inspectors who think if it has a cert for anything it covers everything !
  7. have seen the odd broken engine bearer (alloy bit between engine and mount) on these , was not as obvious as you would expect to look at ....... am wildly stabbing in the dark with these guesses , sooooo many things that fall off mid 90's on beemers
  8. are these dual mass flywheels ? e36's were , can give some odd issues ...... you checked the driveshaft couplings ? those rubber donuts can break up quite spectacularly and still drive ok
  9. thats a tough roll of the health dice ! look after yourself dude ........ some of your symptoms (yours sounds worse !) sound like my medical adventure late last year (viral encephalitus , random viral blood infection which made my brain swell) pretty much back to normal now so hope you get through it quickly too
  10. yeah , 15/40 semi , any 'name' brand will do 245k will burn thin oil but thicker stuff will be fine and cheaper !EDIT , Ogre , I know that is the theory/science etc but my personal experience has been going up a grade or two in a worn engine helps oil consumption as does avoiding full synthetics , manufacturers recomendations are only really for low km cars , once out of waranty you go with what works and a diy oil change on an outback is less than $100 and 1/2 hour , which is cheaper/easier than most of his other options
  11. glad injector did the trick mine had jamex's and big rear swaybar was really happy with height , feel and handling (they were in it when I got it and had settled till not captive at all fyi) only cars I have ever regreted selling are AE82's
  12. it does sound like a timing issue , so if you cant program it through the ecu (I am sure its possible but not something I have played with) so a mechanical fix could be worth a try ..... do you have a few sets of sparkplugs (good 2nd hand is fine) on hand ? if the spark isn't doing its thing they get fueled up and wont fire till they dry out , which could be adding to not starting too ?
  13. Ceramic fuses, like these? if so they are terrible things, quite often the cure to circuits not working is to wiggle the right fuse as the contacts corrode slightly, pop them out and clean up all the contacts, just don't touch them with sandpaper, you don't want to scratch off any plating, I find a dry rag does the trick for 6 months or so plus one to that ^^^^^^ also a squirt of crc (556) every now and then slows the corrosion quite well
  14. would be worth grabbing an infrared thermometer (about $120 on trademe) to trace where your fuel is being heated cause its hard to imagine its just heatsoak through rail mounts ?
  15. you say that (and you are probably right) but how cool is what he has achieved with what he has available in both practical and i-t skill and some kiwi ingenuity ? higher trap speed says his method is working and no amount of dyno time would solve his traction issues anyway . also pretty rare and very cool for him to document both his successes an failures as honestly as he does (most dyno shops dont do that either) disclaimer; I have never met Roman and personaly I prefer points , condensors and carbs
  16. tim13

    Muffler Tech

    I think the "go to" exhaust for a noiseyish but not ridiculous eskies used to be coby before diff coby after diff
  17. tim13

    Muffler Tech

    ok guys and girls , my Au currently has factory manifold no cat and a 21/2 system with a 3" tailpipe factory xr6 centre muffler and a box type resonater at the back , I have rattles from centre muffler and rear res just touches spring at full compression , noise is great at bottom and top ends but too bassey and blah through the mid . so my question is what combo to get noise better thinking of res - flowmaster copy - coby (hotdog) or two flowmaster copies - coby , or other suggestions ? trying to get higher pitch and slightly quieter if poss for $2-300 in parts (may try to add extractors too) , wow that was more writing than I thought ! cheers Tim
  18. has been sitting a while maybe clutch stuck to flywheel ?
  19. hmmm thats unusual , they fitted two because at least one is missing , broken or stuck from new . so yours is unoriginal/modified ...... don't people usually fit toyota boxes .......
  20. I thought the p38 4.6 would be cheaper/easier/better than the old 4.4 these days ?
  21. i would guess internal = combustion chamber/pre-turbo ? and external = post turbo ? baffling ...... maybe b/s I don't think so , makes a lot of sense to me (many years of petrol modding , not much diesel experience)
  22. not sure if it will help but I recently had a car that with no plates etc just chassis number and they could track through that , it got interesting because we knew the car had been road legal here but the chassis number (as stamped on the car) wasn't on file ! as we eventually found out it was because it had been miss-entered when new (car was a 1999) we got a helpful person a vtnz who figured it out , I have since found I could enter chassis number into carjam and figure it out that way too , carjam as many different variations of chassis number (0 for o , 5 and s i and 1 etc . in my case they had reversed some numbers 123 instead of 231) and see what you find , good luck !
  23. agree with trying a different guage mechanical if possible (infared thermometers are also good for checking which bits are hot where blockages are etc) , if guage is electric can also be voltage related , regulator , alternator etc
  24. too close can mean it reads the troughs as well as the peaks on the trigger wheel (can be an issue with abs) twisting while cranking is good if it is close , but it is worth finding tdc and lining up the trigger wheel gap and sensor , also just a thought as you are using distributor for sender you need to fire 4 times each rotation so wasted spark would be either zero and 180 (2 cyl at a time) or zero , 90 , 180 and 270 (4 at a time) is that all set in your base tune ? when you used points as a trigger that was 4 signals per disy rotation , earlier someone sugested doubling your input but depending on coils maybe quadrupling ? I could be overthinking this , computer based tuning is not somthing I have had much to do with . good luck
  25. hi mate couple of ideas ; is your sensor too close or too far away giving it a confused reading ? have you timed the motor so tdc lines gap (in rotor) and sensor ? sounds like a base timing issue , and just to prove I am not always helpful , points & condensor issues seem easyer to fix ! cheers Tim
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