tim13

18 hours ago, BlownCorona said:

youre right, i cant see what the starter is wired in on the above diagrams at all. it must be related to the NSW or else it would start in any gear with the auto

 

it also looks to be that if the AFM wasn't plugged in, the circuit opening relay wouldn't operate. 

something else ill double check i plugged in/is seated correctly. i definitely removed this for another reason

Some great oldschool wisdom so far here on a tough problem . my question/suggestion is water pump related , I have over the years encountered the following problems (on assorted makes/models) with new pumps ; impellers that are different diameters , different depths , vanes rotating opposite directions . Not always obvious at a glance and will usually circulate water just not very efficiently making diagnosis challenging ....... good luck , hopefully an easy fix is found soon allowing you more time to make the rest of us look bad with your next project !

Is it possible to apply vacuum to that port and see what changes ? I have not used malpassi efi regs but all factory and adjustable aftermarket efi regs I have used do have a vacuum feed plumbed in . another thought , is it plumbed on fuel return side of rail ? good luck , seems an odd problem 

Any chance of a pic ? Most efi regs need vacuum to work properly , carb regs just run an adjuster . 

would also be worth checking brake lines and hoses for issues , not uncommon for master to force fluid through a restriction and the fluid not able to return 

shouldnt be too hard to get it running acceptably , can you describe the issue you are having and where you are up to ? as a base starting point ; check valve clearances , check points gap and then ignition timing and check for vacuum leaks , once the above are correct we can start sorting the carb issue !

turn up at his shop with beers and pizza late on a friday ? never hurts to be the guy who didnt just ask questions and not come back , once he knows you are not just a time waster but you bring beer too things might get easier , these guys often get more questions/phonecalls than they can handle and often no business from those calls/questions , so setting yourself apart from 'those guys' who waste his time will usually help your cause

palmside might be worth a call 

Just tell everyone how much less fuel it uses since you fitted the wing

If I can follow through on my standard wrx plan I am not sure if I can resist the temptation to do minor intake/exhaust/suspension/tyre size adjustments ...... its almost certain I will end up doing those tweeks in an easily reversable way and I will feel guilty about doing it ..... maybe I should just buy a modded one and add factory 15's and twin tailpipes and just tell everyone its standard  

Totally agree with so much posted so far , in fact I have been looking to replace my rusty au wagon with the lowest km least modified first gen wrx hatch/wag I can afford , interesting how few are around compared to a few years back ....... message me if ya know of any ! 

Um , I may have miss-read that , so apologies if ya knew this , you need to go taller profile to get your speedo closer and lower profile to improve handling/ acceleration , so ya have to prioritise ......... I would go lower profile (and have done on anything I have ever owned , bonus is driving everywhere above the speed limit without actually breaking the speed limit )

Awesome work , thanks for sharing the ups and downs , so good to read about other peoples learning process and know its not just me that makes things better then worse then finally get it where it should be I have worked with a couple of mitsi freaks and these cars have some real character , keep enjoying it and making it 'yours'

Mine is a wagon so can't help on rears , front was about an inch lower than a mates au3 ticford xr6 but still has reasonable ground clearance so not really low at all by oldschool standards !

Yes , I have ef xr6 front springs/shocks in my au , brake hose brackets are the only thing you need to be creative with . Ba/f front rotors & calipers are a fairly straight forward upgrade while you are under there too

14 hours ago, igor said:

Talked to an old geezer with a 2500 at Edendale Crank-up on Saturday. He reckoned he was getting 33 mpg from it.

........... of oil ? also , Mr Doom you are welcome to have a look (or drive if I ever finish the 6 small jobs to complete it !) at my modded mk1 (not a euphemism) if you need encouragement  

Yea does seem retarded an electric bike can be sold legit, rode legit, with no real concern for the them, put a 50cc villars motor on a bike and suddenly boom! You're a criminal.

Dude , you were a criminal way before ya did that !

So I asked earlier about improving sound quality on my au wagon and didn't get much response , then I procrastinated until my xr6 muffler disintegrated and I finally had to do something (other than complain !) I now have an exhaust note I am happy with on my falcon , the recipe that worked for me is a 2 1/2" system with a 18" coby followed by an 'afterburner' (trademe $80) and followed by what was originally a front resonator from an xr6 , seems to have freed some midrange torque and improved pitch and volume from the previous manifold to main xr6 muffler to resonator system (also 2 1/2)

(please note no actual science or data has be used to leap to these conclusions)

E marked belts are judged on condition like regular belts , so should be fine , and can also be used for many (not all) motorsport events too

Don't forget the replacement caught fire too ?

Overheating is usually either really obvious what's wrong or a total nightmare ! I use an digital infrared thermometer to confirm whether it is actually overheating or a guage issue ? Then if it is overheating you can find if there is a localized hot or cool spot to give you a clue whats up . some interesting things to find include internally bypassing radiators , water pumps with wrong impeller trying to pump the wrong way and more of a new car issue air locks , good luck dude , hope it's easier to fix than it is to find ......

I am assuming the ungrateful kids of dead baby-boomers will just sell The cars cheap unless they are enthusiasts too , I figure the next 10-20 years as the boomers die off/start spending cash on medicine a lot of these cars will get reasonably priced again , look at current prices of vintage cars , gives me hope for the 60's 70's stuff in a few years . A good hedge would be gathering 80's-90's stuff now for when the values cross over .........

I can help

I have always been happy with advice , price and service from Inghams . Chamberlins in chch are ok too , pays to support locals (whoever your locals are) cause once these guys go we aren't training a whole heap of blacksmiths/springmakers

Agreed , with easily found models colapsable spacer replacement is the best answer .......but oddball stuff or late night before an event a spacer can save the day . Poor workmanship/service from 'Professionals' annoys me