tim13

Some great oldschool wisdom so far here on a tough problem . my question/suggestion is water pump related , I have over the years encountered the following problems (on assorted makes/models) with new pumps ; impellers that are different diameters , different depths , vanes rotating opposite directions . Not always obvious at a glance and will usually circulate water just not very efficiently making diagnosis challenging ....... good luck , hopefully an easy fix is found soon allowing you more time to make the rest of us look bad with your next project !

Is it possible to apply vacuum to that port and see what changes ? I have not used malpassi efi regs but all factory and adjustable aftermarket efi regs I have used do have a vacuum feed plumbed in . another thought , is it plumbed on fuel return side of rail ? good luck , seems an odd problem

Any chance of a pic ? Most efi regs need vacuum to work properly , carb regs just run an adjuster .

would also be worth checking brake lines and hoses for issues , not uncommon for master to force fluid through a restriction and the fluid not able to return

turn up at his shop with beers and pizza late on a friday ? never hurts to be the guy who didnt just ask questions and not come back , once he knows you are not just a time waster but you bring beer too things might get easier , these guys often get more questions/phonecalls than they can handle and often no business from those calls/questions , so setting yourself apart from 'those guys' who waste his time will usually help your cause

Just tell everyone how much less fuel it uses since you fitted the wing

Awesome work , thanks for sharing the ups and downs , so good to read about other peoples learning process and know its not just me that makes things better then worse then finally get it where it should be I have worked with a couple of mitsi freaks and these cars have some real character , keep enjoying it and making it 'yours'

Mine is a wagon so can't help on rears , front was about an inch lower than a mates au3 ticford xr6 but still has reasonable ground clearance so not really low at all by oldschool standards !

Yes , I have ef xr6 front springs/shocks in my au , brake hose brackets are the only thing you need to be creative with . Ba/f front rotors & calipers are a fairly straight forward upgrade while you are under there too

So I asked earlier about improving sound quality on my au wagon and didn't get much response , then I procrastinated until my xr6 muffler disintegrated and I finally had to do something (other than complain !) I now have an exhaust note I am happy with on my falcon , the recipe that worked for me is a 2 1/2" system with a 18" coby followed by an 'afterburner' (trademe $80) and followed by what was originally a front resonator from an xr6 , seems to have freed some midrange torque and improved pitch and volume from the previous manifold to main xr6 muffler to resonator system (also 2 1/2) (please note no actual science or data has be used to leap to these conclusions)

Overheating is usually either really obvious what's wrong or a total nightmare ! I use an digital infrared thermometer to confirm whether it is actually overheating or a guage issue ? Then if it is overheating you can find if there is a localized hot or cool spot to give you a clue whats up . some interesting things to find include internally bypassing radiators , water pumps with wrong impeller trying to pump the wrong way and more of a new car issue air locks , good luck dude , hope it's easier to fix than it is to find ......

Agreed , with easily found models colapsable spacer replacement is the best answer .......but oddball stuff or late night before an event a spacer can save the day . Poor workmanship/service from 'Professionals' annoys me

I am no diff expert (although I have broken a few ......) but if you have to reuse a crush tube I am pretty sure you can add a shim/small spacer to allow another stage of crush ?

that , or cantabury brake and clutch are pretty good

just had a read of this and build thread and wondering if you have checked spark at plugs fuel at rail and pulse at injectors ? you prob have but it may help with our virtual diagnosis

worth checking for hidden bolts too some heads have some small ones which hide under gunge , been ages since I did one of these so may or may not be the case here .....

I am guessing a forgotten extra fill between calculations ........ although as a 2000 owner mine has used less than half a tank in 12 months so the economy is goooooood

depends what events you want to run though , that car has run in a few 'classic' events which it could still do with a Z or L or FJ motor but only two of those can be done cheaply ...... if you are not worried about classicness or datsun-ness there are some great options out there too . but for me I would go Z based as best bang for buck , no fabrication , classic option

isnt this the generation with the autochoke that gums up inside and out ? if so often the suplementry idleup unit for a/c & p/s wont be engaging cause choke still on a bit ...... worth checking what choke is doing before you go much further anyway cause that may explain the high idle you are trying to adjust/bend into submission too ! also check basics like timing and vacuum leaks sooner rather than later , good luck

at Steelies , I had Mikuni flatslides on my spittie , they were fitted before I bought it so basic setup was already done , drove great but had a few minor issues with leaks and getting correct fuel pump and pressure . car is still in wellie and I can put you in touch with current owner if you want ? cheers Tim

the above theory on thinning oils is why people believe cars will run on water in the future

yes ........ but the death happens either way ! as for original question , its part of the oil crisis , we have used up all of the thick dinosaurs so we have been forced to develop cars which can use the oil from the remaining thinner dinosaurs . its science , science is always right

ballast needs to be installed or bypassed (wire accross where ballast would be) matches your symptoms and easy fix , long term make sure you have the coil that best suits your ballast/non-ballast set up

hey buddy , been a while since I played with escorts ........ (well that sentence looks wrong !) , from memory ; firing order is 1 2 4 3 and disy rotates anticlockwise ....... I think / google will know !