Esky_addict

Bump. These coils get me every time i need a new one. Holden still has factory resistor wire, went into BNT to get a new coil there options were C-80 or C-80r, I grabbed a C-80 thinking oh well if its not the right one ill just get a resistor to chuck in there but.... Does the R mean they are internally resisted or they require an external resistor? I'm thinking now I'm running a 12v coil with reduced voltage hopefully causing my miss under load/acceleration Edit. lol just reread thread so yeah basically what threeontree said but opposite.

you beauty I tried everything even had plugs out for a look and a clean as they were a bit fouled, after reading that I cleaned them with wire brush and she's purring again now bloody rapt. stale fuel must of sat on top and only gave issues after using up the fresh stuff. It was fine then It was away for a few days while getting rooflining done and got it back running like poo basically. Had me guessing i wouldn't think baked up plugs would cause a backfire like that it was backfiring at both ends under load. and would run then just drop and die randomly,

I put the original back in it loom in and it had never been modified. So still has resistor wire fitted coil is a "C80 COIL 12V NON BALLAST COIL 4 6 CYL" so looks like the wrong one aye did run mint for a while, buggered the points?

wrong coil maybe should it be ballast or non ballast

checked filter, doesn't idle anymore so thought shit in idle circuit just opened it up and looked again. good thing is doesn't look compression related, leaning towards electrical now just had running at around 1500rpm with a miss then sort of cleared itself ran mint for couple seconds, dropped it off to idle and it idled with a slight miss for about 10 seconds then just died, very inconsistant.

can't really be new bits as they were fitted when motor went in, condenser maybe? how can I check that? no obvious leaks rechecked all manifold bolts

points leads plugs and coil was new very recently and cars done like 2kms on road old dizzy, good point though i forgot to check gap

So long story short I bunged an old 173 into a hq project I have to get it moving reregistered etc. it was running like a sewing machine then over a very short period of time it started to run rough as like it was running on 5 idled mint though, now not so much. Tank had some stale fuel in it when i got it tipped as much out as would come out and chucked In 20litres fresh stuff to dilute it, ran most of that through just generally idling around house moving around garage etc. Then it started missing a bit under revs and was starting to pick some shit up from bottom of tank could see it in fuel pump so i drained tank and chucked another 20l in it. Still no good spark looks good nothing's changed, blew carby out and tonight done a compression test 165 134 165 168 150 152 I know these aren't ideal but even the 134 is still above ranges stated in manual. You fellas reckon this would be my problem or should it still run alright with these numbers? Cheers

This thing lived a couple houses down from me its pretty tidy alright.

Yeah I asked weber specialties about supplying the linkage I needed to join my sytec linkage kit upto twin 45s on my pinto, he proceeded to tell me that they don't deal with sytec rubbish, only the far superior manglotessi stuff, even though the bits I needed were generic weber parts. Then a quick scan of his site reveals him selling replica weber carbs of aliexpress lol

Im in southland man. So just to sum it up everything works fine on these lights except the taillights won't go, the number plate light goes though which is powered by the tailights circuit. However if I disconnect the brake lights from the trailer plug then the tailights will work along with the number plate light as the should, Will email seller tonight and ask but I can't see them coming to the party will probly just get "check your wiring" etc I'm not sure how these leds work as the tail lights and brake lights use the same leds but vary in brightness is there some sort of ballast wire?

Im in southland man. So just to sum it up everything works fine on these lights except the taillights won't go, the number plate light goes though which is powered by the tailights circuit. However if I disconnect the brake lights from the trailer plug then the tailights will work along with the number plate light as the should, Will email seller tonight and ask but I can't see them coming to the party will probly just get "check your wiring" etc I'm not sure how these leds work as the tail lights and brake lights use the same leds but vary in brightness is there some sort of ballast wire?

Im in southland man. So just to sum it up everything works fine on these lights except the taillights won't go, the number plate light goes though which is powered by the tailights circuit. However if I disconnect the brake lights from the trailer plug then the tailights will work along with the number plate light as the should, Will email seller tonight and ask but I can't see them coming to the party will probly just get "check your wiring" etc I'm not sure how these leds work as the tail lights and brake lights use the same leds but vary in brightness is there some sort of ballast wire?

Frosty I tested the cars parklight circuit by connecting the trailers brake lights to the cars taillight circuit. I was testing wiring on my ba xr6, surf and a mates au xr6 all acted the same.

Just had a small breakthrough for you electrical gurus. I just disconnected the brake lights from the trailer plug and the park lights go as normal.

Everything is new have tested with multimeter aswell. Gotta be a fault with the lights surely? If I run the red brake light wire to the brown tailights wire on the car the brake lights go when headlights are on so this must mean there is nothing wrong with the car side of things. Just seems odd how everything else works fine

Getting 13.8 at the taillights with engine running and just swapped wires around so brown taillight wire at car goes to red brake light wire on trailer and they work so that rules out car wiring,

Wirings done pretty tidy really lol. Getting 11.5 volts at rear of trailer on tailights wire battery is pretty flat too it's on charger at moment but still enough power to run brake lights.

Hi fellas Ive just finished building myself a new trailer and the lights are playing up they are tardme units with 150mm ish of wire each so needed soldered onto some 5core. I tested them off a car battery before wiring them up and everything worked... but after wiring them up the park/taillights are no go however the number plate light works which is running off the same wire. Even after snipping the number plate light the taillights still wont, go have stripped back near the join in the back off trailer and they will light up with a car battery connected directly to brown wire. Any thoughts?

Giday im putting one of these in my escort any reason you had the radiator offset to one side?

Cheers, i had a look at the article on the works rally car type pedal boxes and it went straight over my head, but after studying it it seems fairly straight foward.

Sorry to drag up old post but anyone got these plans handy?

Nice work, i realise this is old post but do you have more details on the starter conversion i cant seem to find any info on it.

Sweet adio thats exactly what i wanted to know. The fault code light is shown through a button on my surf. When you push the button it brings up the codes, the fan also goes when button is pushed so must be cas

will do yeah its got s2 coils on it at moment. Its starting to do my head in flat battery before work this morning only just put alternator back in yesterday after having it checked and new brushes put in. Spat out a code 41 CAS after a jump start.