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Posts posted by Mitch.W
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3 hours ago, Rhyscar said:
Oh man with 9000rpms that will work out perfect! 13" wheels FTW. With 17's I need to go for a 5.3 diff!
It sounds like you need to run 13’s
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4 hours ago, Hyperblade said:
So the only TRS tyres you can still get secondhand from the series are the old rears, (now the new fronts) which need 10" wide rim, so most cars require substantial modification to run them. Those charts were based off the smaller TRS slicks that runs on 8" wide wheels. so you need to think carefully about what tyres your going to run, it may be that 15" might be the more economical option (even though I don't like the look of them on old cars)
For grip, you will be wanting to aim for 185 - 200kph at the end of the straight which should be doable with your weight and power.
I went with 2nd-6th gears which meant launching in 2nd and using 3rd for hairpin 4-5 everywhere else then 6th for straight.
But the alternative (and much nicer if you street drive) is to use 1-5th which can be beneficial for N/A cars as not using overdrive 6th.
Here's some diff/speeds (based on 54cm trs tyres) to give you an idea of where it would sit
You have lots of revs available which gives you a few options (let me know if you want me to calculate any other options).
Yeah that works out great, I will most probably start with using 185/60/13 semi slicks all round for now, means I can keep it stock body and until I decide what o want to do. Deff don’t want to end up running 10” wheels, you can still buy 200/540/13 tires brand new for not bad money which is an option later down the track.
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1 hour ago, Truenotch said:
4.9 will be relatively short with 13" slicks. Ruapuna's straight is long - @Hyperblade can probably chime in here with the Starlet's diff ratio, RPM and 6th gear ratio to give you a better idea.
4.9 will be great for drifting though…
would love to have a easy setup that works for grip and drift, I can get 2 different sets of front knuckles so that makes changing the alignment easy. Just always so tempted to run trs slicks but that requires big guards which makes it hard to make cool wheels fit for drifting
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52 minutes ago, Roman said:
Sidetrack to your build and sorry/not sorry.
But the biggest tragedy with the 2ZZ was that they made the 1ZZ and 2ZZ completely different engines.
They were trying to make a competitor to the B18C but totally missed the point in that regard.
Like how good is the B18C, on account of that even the peasant versions can be awesome, with just different cams and so on.
Can you imagine if every single turd car out there with a 1ZZ, had 2ZZ potential? Would be incredible!
But instead we have zillions of 1ZZ turds and very few of the cool motors around.
The most frustrating thing about them it would be so cool if they had changed bore and stroke to make it work
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Yeah I didn’t intend on using a rough shell but it’s what was available at the time.
I haven’t don’t any driveline calcs yet but it should work good and I’m hoping 4.9 makes it work out good. Will be a 13” with 185/60 or a 14” with 185/50. Undecided what wheels I’m going to run yet. When I built my starlet it was 4.9 with a t50 and 13” trs slicks it was 175kph at 7500rpm which was perfect for manfeild.
I can get stock lsd’s from the utes but hoping to get a plate type lsd for it.
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15 minutes ago, GARDRB said:
I've always wanted a 2ZZ but never been able to get over the buy-in on one. When I got my 1uz for my Corolla a 2ZZ was more expensive.
Also agree with ditching the S13 stuff. It's trash in a CorollaI’m still yet to grab one, missed out on a celica at turners that sold for 1k, wreckers seem to want 2k for a motor. Must have come down in price now.
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19 minutes ago, RUNAMUCK said:
The 2zz is what 180-200hp?
Thats fucking plenty for such a light car. It will be an absolute pleasure to bash around at that power level. Plus toyota reliability means more time manging, less time fixing stuff that has given up because too much was asked of it.
Hypothetically, what are the s13 front stuff worth? I one million percent shouldnt be buying parts for my wagon. But, when things come up......
Yeah they seem to make around 140kw in stock used form at the wheels which is plenty! I’m use to a stock 16v 4age so it will be heaps.
afew things I seems with the 2zz is upgrade oil pump gears as they like to explode and valve springs.
you don’t want the s13 stuff. It’s terrible for handling on ke/ae cars- 2
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23 minutes ago, shrike said:
Going with a stock 2zz? Or doing some tweaks?
Curious to see how the 2zz goes in rwd few newer options around now, esp after seeing @Romanresults with his 1nz
2AR have been popular in MR2 etc
I'd love to see the newer corolla M20A-FKB engines in one of these but the 14:1 M20A-FXS would be interesting (might be a bottom end swap sort of thing) direct injection, my partners corolla gets like 4L per 100km
B1600 diff is an interesting option drum brake or is there a disc brake option. How heavy are they compared to the factory diff?
It will just be a stock 2zz with equal length headers and either blacktop 20v or s65 itb’s.
Would like to get a spare head to do some cams and porting later down the track but main focus is get it running and driving.
Yeah the 2zz has some good potential I feel quite popular in Jamaica and some other countries in fwd corollas making good power.
there is a lot of cool modern motor with small displacement that make realllly good power that would be cool to do, I friend showed me the Honda L15 the other day which looks super cool.b1600 diff use to be commonly used, I’ve got caliper brackets to run s13 Silvia discs and Nissan pulsar calipers so isn’t too hard to make that work.
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talk me into not finishing this project
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so after getting rid of my ae85 levin because i made it too nice to bash about at the track i was on the lookout for a suitable car to buy/build to have some fun in, bonus of this car is its also rego on hold if i get that way inclined.
This popped on on market place for sale, the previous owner had JB Fab here build a 6 point cage and equal length 4 link setup with a b1600 diff, photos below how i got the car.
It came with a lot of spares and all the parts needed to put a rolling body together really.
i got it home yesterday and started attacking some dodgy spots with a wire wheel to see what i'm dealing with rust wise, didn't find too many surprises only a couple of bad spots that need patches. Removed everything that was bolted on, it had Silvia front suspension which i will be getting rid of and i have ae86 coilovers and knuckles to replace this.
before i got this car i had already purchased an engine mount and j160 adaptor kit from Niteparts for 2zz.
looking into diff options for the b1600 diff, i've seen a bit online about what heads fit into the b1600 setup. Ideally i would like a nice 2 way diff for this, I saw that potentially fc3s nuggets bolt in? i have a 4.9 Ratio at the moment which is perfect.
current plan of attack is:
- Rust patches.
- wirewheel and re undercoat the underside.
- Doors and front end to panel beater for a quick panel and paint.
- Weld up all the unnecessary holes in the engine bay.
- Mockup j160/2zz combo and start headers and itb setup.
- Sort rear brake setup on the diff.
- Powedercoat/Zinc everything to make it nice
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Discussion
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Hi all,
I’m currently looking at getting some itb’s for a new project, I’m needing something around 50-51mm in diameter needing in a set of 4 ideally.
does anyone know of any motorcycle itb’s, or something off a random car that are around this? I know there is aftermarket options but I have short arms and deep pockets.
I’m aware bmw s54 etc but again, spendy…has anyone delved into this hard and come out with any good options?
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So I’ve been in a battle with these back wheels, 14x9.5 -33 doesn’t fit well in stock rear guards as I wanted and I still had no luck trying to find factory 9j A type mk3.
I got these polished up and painted them in a krylon glitter blast paint which was a pain in the ass to spray.
after much deliberation I decided to stick with the ones I have, I then decided I should try and narrow the subframe to fit, I friend mentioned another old Toyotas axles weee slightly shorter and could work, so i set about jigging up the subframe and moving the trailing arm mounts in 12mm or so.Before
After
Both images on an unrolled stock guard which worked great.
while I was there I decided I might aswell raise the diff and make a bit of an exhaust tunnel. I’m terrible at taking photos as I do stuff so here’s the finished result, only needed to fold the lip up of the guard and it fits great.
needing to drop a tire size in the front to 165/60 and get it lower all round but it’s starting to get there.
I also got a custom made Jeff emporium steering wheel which turned out great and he also refurbished the trd gearknob that came on the car too. still need to clean to OEM floor mats and get them back in the car to tidy up the interior
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Looking good! I cut off the entire yuck bit around the rear brake switch and relocated the light switch onto the rear brake leaver with a little bracket
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Slowly chipping away at this, got the motor 90% complete, just need to pull apart the accessories to vapour blast all them and it’s ready to drop in.
Big shoutout to @HighLUX for sending me down a lower timing belt cover in good condition as mine had been mangled when it was pulled out of the original car.
I’ve also been in the hunt since I got this for for a pair of 14x9j A type (-25) ssr mk3 with original ssr lips to match my pair of 8j A type mk3, finally found some on yahoo when they arrived they looked wide and I measured them up and they turned out to be 14x9.5 A type (-30) which is wider than I wanted and a little annoying, but have decided I’ll just make em fit, will need a little more guard work but that’s no biggie.
I stripped the paint off the centres and a thinking I will vapour blast and clear coat the faces? If anyone has any suggestions on the best way/any other ways to keep a raw face nice that would be handy, and they are getting sent off to get the lips all polished up and tidied.
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No clue on the exhaust setup but this is a goood sounding 350z, it makes pretty happy noises at the end doing skids
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14 hours ago, HumberSS said:
What trans are you using? I need to know wiring pinouts on my A42DL for my Dyna build. Chur
It’s a factory manual car with w55 so I don’t have to worry about any trans wiring
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So after stripping the motor down everything got sent to powder coat/zinc plating/vapour blasting.
Ordered all new timing gear and a full gasket kit to freshen the motor.
also managed to score a digital dash from japan, the dash is the easy part. Finding a digital fuel sender and repinning my loom to suit is the harder part.now the puzzle of finding where everything on the motor goes and i can think about swapping it, maybe paint the engine bay first?
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Picked up a blue top 1gge the other day from some guy on Facebook out of an a70 supra that had 140k’s on the clock which hopefully means the motor is good, popped a cam cover off tonight and the head looks really clean, will give the aluminium a vapour blast and rezinc the bolts and other hardware cambelt and water pump and chuck it in and try my luck.
also picked up some cheap s13 coilovers, these will get cut up and I’ll use the sleeves to make some platform coilovers just need to measure up suitable sized shocks
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I’m also keen on this, recently moved to chch so I have accomodation and can store bikes for you boys if you end up shipping them down from up north.
im currently thinking I’ll hook the trailer up and tow bikes to Fairlie? Pretty boring ride from chch really
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nice, love me a BMW, i built one (build thread on here somewhere) acouple of years ago, i cut the brake light switch bracket off completely to tidy the frame up and mounted it on the frame in the peg mount so the brake pedal pulled it down, you'll find most good looking exhausts on these are silly loud, just wear ear plugs is the best solution.
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19 minutes ago, sheepers said:
you can host them on this site, just use the "Drag files or choose" option at the bottom of the text box.
what a treat, have just swapped all my pics over to that now!
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13 minutes ago, sheepers said:
yea i cant see the pix either
whats the go for image hosting these days, i'm using Imgur? been a hot minute since i've been on here.
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This is how it currently looks, i raised it up as i got sick of how it handled and it made a massive difference. I also too advantage of a Watanabe 40% off sale and picked up a nice set, loving how the car looks now.
The car currently has oil leaks like any good 4age does but the rear main leaks and the burning oil smokes out the cabin when i'm drifting which is less than ideal so dropping the motor for a refresh and keep enjoying.
The dream of FCR's and some cams is in the pipeline as well as a shaved/repainted engine bay would go down a treat.
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It continued...
Then it was all back together and mostly rust free, The car sat for awhile more while i tried to find a panel beater to tidy the car up, ended up flying a good friend up from Chch to palmy one weekend and we had the car panelled and primed in 1 weekend, ended up doing all in the door jams, all windows out etc and painted it in the OEM red
Chucked it back together and started to enjoy the car again
During all of this i swapped the cars wiring to all AE86 wiring so it was all oem plug and play with the 4age and in tank fuel pump which was nice, i also sourced almost everything for a black interior out of japan in hopes of completing a full GT Apex interior swap on the car too which is much nicer than brown.
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Mitchs is never going to finish 2zz Ke70 race car build discussion
in Project Discussion
Posted
Yeah Darren messaged me, once shipping they become not super cheap, will wait until I have some wheels and front suspension before sorting tires