azzurro

based off the sizes on the old ones, I ordered two full sets of gearbox oil seals including shipping from Ali Express for less than the Buy it now price of a single NOS seal via Ebay. Definitely due for some! This one is the rear seal and a real shit to get the old one out as its face is flush with the inside of the recess. Gearbox is now as ready as it ever will be. Been pretty busy with work and a couple of weeks in Auckland visiting family and dragging back a solid van load (+ trailer) of shite from my storage unit - still another load to go. Anyway, some of the retrieved treasure includes a Fiat 1500 clutch master i got ages ago to try on the 2300 wagon, that didn't fit. Perfect match for the Van Various bits for a new exhaust And all sorts of other rusty shite treasure that will maybe come in handy one day for the Van and maybe the rest of the fleet.

Looks really good, perfectly functional/nice but plenty of room for personal touches. Hopefully you get a result that makes it worthwhile.

Had to collect the 125 from gc@nzstato offsite storage facility so he can put his own stuff in it. First time these have been together. Dropped the super heavy (C beam, 0.25" plate and angle iron) rear bumper/towbar that some PO had added (no rear bumper from factory!) and sanded the paint on the valance/ rear quarters behind it. Aaaand went over a few other patches again and so thats the last* of the maroon paint and its primer. Gave the cab a wipe down . Then gave the side i see the most a wizz with the polisher Not bad!

Some orders turned up in the last couple of weeks: - piston rings - front brake cylinders - engine gasket set - gear box linkage bushes and misc rubber bits - valve guides - water pump Still need a few more bits, mostly brake related, and have a big ladapower order that should do the trick. Brake master cleaned up ok, but has one quite bad rust crater right under one of the inlet ports. Ill probably get it ss sleeved before i install my lovely NOS rebuild kit Also tidied up the propshaft I replaced one universal as it felt a bit sticky, but it looked pretty low milage once removed. " Hardy Spicer (Aust)" on it so definitely a replacement, so i left the other one which felt fine

thrust rods for all the boys. I may have a spare one? Ill let you know in a week or so

Scott at Radiator Services is my man. Waiting on a price for a recore on the radiator, but the fuel tank is a total loss. Its a pretty simple shape and fairly common wagon/van mounting arrangement so either a new custom tank or bodging something to fit (lada niva?) will be in my future. Given its got no engine or brakes, im in no big rush at the mo! Pull and Pay is permanaently closed

The man did not have good news Swiss cheese, rusted from the inside out. Radiator needs a recore too. Suggestions for custom fuel tank replacement on a postcard. Lada Niva tanks have a similar general shape, pipe location and attachment style/location, so will dig into that for starters Shame theres no pickaparts down these ways to go wander with a tape measure

Dropped the fuel tank. Filler and vent rubber had been replaced with radiator and garden hose respectively Was empty which i took as a good sign. Its dented underneath but looks watertight and is galvanised. Level sender not looking so good. Floats are cork. See what happens after an overnight soak in vinegar. Thats just nasty After a rinse with the hose this appeared, looking al the way through back out the sender hole. Dang it. Plan was to take this and the radiator to get dipped and cleaned. Radiator has a split too. Hopefully the whole bottom of the tank isnt thinned from the inside out. Will see what the man says.

Brake master cylinder is cleaning up nice. Got a rebuild kit to go in. Trying to figure what intake to run. The potential performance advantage of the twin barrel car manifold over the single Solex 32 BIC is obvious But so is the size. Might rub on the cab. Fitting a different carb with the gubbins mostly facing the head would probably work too. Maybe later. Anyway, variations on the Solex BIC single carb was used in many small and medium cars from the 50s to the 70s, and much later in the third world so parts are plentiful (and cheap!) and so now have a 'Willys Jeep' full rebuild kit on the way so will start with keeping it originale.

Chur Is that other Fiat project of mine giving you the shits yet

So onto other stuff, Gearbox has been sitting in the corner since being removed It looked pretty suboptimal on initial glace After a waterblast looking better. Box is early 1100 style so pretty light and small. Similar design to my 2300 but that has a steel case and is i bit beefier all round. Linkage has been fuckled with and the top of the bell housing looks to be welded back on. Mounting face is flat and the holes line up, so im letting it be. Insides look ok, i guess? Turns out the output seal is the same as a lada/124/125/1100/1500/2300 which is good as i had one 'in stock' from a past order FIAT ITALY PA335 Removed the bell housing and tail shaft. Nothing seems missing or broken, there is some wear, but nothing i can do anything about. New oil seal and some bloo goo on the original gasket Put back together - ive ordered some more seals for future reference: 1100T 217.000 gearbox output seal - 32x56x10 - same as lada/124/125/1100/1500/2300 input seal - 22x45x8 - shared with other 1100 group boxes selector rod seal - 14x24x7 - shared with 850/1100/2300 Clutch master came apart and cleaned up pretty nicely too - i have already got a NOS rebuild kit ready to go, but i also have also a strong feeling this is a lada compatible part (the slave is) so may drop one in my next ladapower order just in case.

Fingats crossed the van head (left) is better than the Car head (right Both have the same casting number with the van being an '8' the car head being the later one is a '14', chamber head is very slightly different as well Dang it, looks like i will need two new sets of valves and might even need to pay a guy to re grind the seats properly and other similar stuff. Bugger

those castor rod nuts were tight as feck on all mine too The design of the valence means you cant get a rattle gun on there either. I think i used a nut splitter on at least one of mine in the end

slow progress this week finally started painting the bathroom ceiling i rejibbed after replacing the old 3 in 1 fan a few months ago. Some more treasure from Italy showed up, its the missing sliding door handle. Popped that on and now the van (furgone) is pretty much complete now. Just doesnt go or stop... So shuffled the 'car' engine off the stand and under the bench and got the original one from the van ready, removed clutch and flywheel, and got it on the stand to start the tear down to see what we have to work with. Got a new parts washer - its a revelation - good for cleaning things before (remove the greasy smeg) and after a soak in the vinegar bath (to neutralize it) and after the sand blasting cabinet to get the sand off things before putting them away - flywheel and clutch plate are both in great condition and came up well I know this engine is hard seized and the engine number is about 50,000 lower than the car engine. Both are 115C 000 blocks, but the van one is #35xxxx, car one is #409707. Centrifugal oil filter shows signs of a lot of deferred maintenance! Popped the valve cover, the inside and the head very blackened (from dirty old oil getting hot) and the valve gear has some surface rust from condensation A couple of valves were sticky but they freed up once the head was off and i could tap them back up. Ill strip the head down after work this week some time, hopefully its better than the other one. The valve gear off the other engine is nicer than this This is Cylinder 1 after popping the head off and a quick vacuum. That will buff out? After a good water blast and air dry i stripped the rest of the accessories out. Cam looks ok - cam gears, chain and cover are also in good nick - no witness marks from loose chains either so ill use that cover at least. Oil pump shaft is stuck in its hole- and BLACK Left some ATF and Acetone sitting in the cylinders overnight - only #2 drained out - i know for sure #1 is rusty and stuck, but maybe #3 and #4 just have really good rings? HA haaaa haaaahaaaahahahaha hhmmmm. Hmmm. Shame because it looks like this engine has standard pistons still (77mm vs 77.2 on the car block) and apart from the rust the cylinder walls look less worn as well. Will see if it frees up, but i think ill stick with the car block, hopefully the head off this one turns out to be ok, or at least better than the car one, and with a few other bits swapped around and some new rings ill get 'a runner'

Headlights These take a 7" H1 bulb headlight, which seems common enough, but the bulb housing has the mounting and adjustment built in and clip on to the bucket and are only available NOS, like these for only $500NZ + postage, and these aren't even RHD. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/124135811511 So i bought the cheapest 7" headlights i could find with a peace symbol which tuned out are Lucas STYLE 700 lamps from here along with some other stuff: https://www.classiccaraccessories.co.nz/collections/lighting/products/classic-lucas-style-p700-headlamps?variant=29025370636376 Unfortunately they didn't mount quite how i imagined but luckily some actual Lucas headlights popped up on FBM and they had the mounting rings too, so I could fabri-cobble something together. OEM SIEM light (H1 bulb), old Lucas 700 with mounting ring (bayonet style bulb) , modern Lucas 'Style' 700 lamp (H4 bulb) The SIEM lamp has a 'long' side glass which gives room for adjustment within the light trim ring. The mounting ring on the lucas makes it a bit tighter Reusing the original mounting buckets (they have small clips for the trim ring built in as well) meant cutting one wee clip off the old headlights, cutting some slots and adding some captive nuts to make some adjusters And they actually fit! Van finally has its face back. H1 and H4 bulb wiring is pretty much the same but ill probably add some relays in for these and a few other things at some point This is normal right? Classic OS, 'saving' money on buying the right thing, by spending almost as much buying old junk that doesn't quite work and spending hours making it fit. Should have probably just bought these, but they were out of stock or I would have https://www.classiccaraccessories.co.nz/collections/lighting/products/7-inch-headlamp-cone-assembly-metal-with-gasket

Had a combo of not raining and the Mrs in a mood to help, so got the van turned around. Not quite Austin powers 100 point turn style but nearly - i had a roller jack under the diff which made it a bit easier to pirouette. Jacked it right up, stuck the engine crane though the drivers door and after disconnecting everything (-1) eventually pooped this greasy lump out. Thats a single barrel Solex with about a 25mm venturi and the exhaust manifold is van specific to poke though the engine bay into the front wheel well. Smelly greasy hole Two cans of degreaser later and its much much better - the opening behind that loose pipe is for the exhaust pipe. What looks like a chassis rail the pipe resents on is actually the cold air feed, from in front of the radiator, dumping behind the firewall, with a smaller round hole for the carb - i wonder if that has a ram effects? Tidied up the starter motor, came up really nice, solenoid even has yellow plating still on it, and even bench tested successfully, and happily a bit smoother and quieter than it was before the tidy up Mid tidying up Fresh alternator brushes, I got 4 boxes of these these cheap as (like $10 euro for all four boxes?) ages ago for my 2300, quality West German made. I also swapped the starter bushes for the old 2300 ones i swapped were actually quite a bit longer than the ones in the one that came off the van engine (never throw anything away!) And compared the spare that actually looked slightly better on the outside (but felt a bit crunchy spinning).

Been poking away at things. Ol' mate runs a Tech room at the local high school, so i did a C+ effort on turning up some oak gear knobs one weekend The black one is the knob off the 2300 wagon, which would be close to if not the exact factory size on the van - ie pretty small, about 25 diameter x 40 long. I havnt been able to find these for sale anywhere, and they are an usuay (for a gear knob) thread The other ones might get used on some other cars. M8 x 1.25 threaded tap into a 7mm drilled hole, and some danish oil. Also tidied up the dizzy. One off each engine, one slightly better nick then the other. Very similar design to the 2300 one (box of bits in the background) but I didnt need to steal any bits. As i managed to make one good one from the two, one set of points was pretty much new, one vacuum advance worked, etc. Reassembled and adjusted up. Got a couple of cheap NOS dizzy caps in a recent order so unboxed that and all looking good.

@epoxy124 more 125 content please!

Dang. Costs changes are related to variations tho? not just "yeah, nah, quote was for $ but lol, jokes heres the invoice for $$$"? Shame cause otherwise seems like it was going pretty good, nice tidy site, good progress, quality work, etc?

Everyone needs a rusty column change van project! Top purchase - look forward to forward progress

In my last order, a 4 euro part (hand washer squishy button) plus some finangling with tiny hoses under the dash got the window squirters going. A somewhat more expensive part also turned up, all the way from the motherland The original RHD black one on top and new LHD one mirrored below, I almost cried, becasue LHD ones dont exist, but turns out the mounting holes are the same, only the lenth of the sides are different so just needed a careful dremelling, as well as a rewire (9 wire instead of original 8 wire version) which was quite simple as the extra wire was from splitting supply between the headlights individually instead of sharing. And all wired up and installed, with the newly cleaned and operational dash, heater, handbrake, column, wiring etc. Headlights (original bulbs!) now working too off the switch plus the indicators like before, so that's all the accessories officially operational. Ill swap out the non factory switches eventually, and now i have a spare spot as i bypassed the switch for the dash light so it just comes on with the headlights instead of its own switch. Its not exactly luxurious, but at least it all now works! Spose i should worry about getting it to move under its own power instead of making brumbrum noises then! **** Digging thought the stash turns out i have most of a gasket set for one of these (much cheaper to buy than a 2300 one and lots of bits cross over) so I started to put the bottom end of the spare and now slightly cleaner engine back together. Turns out only 2 of the 4 pistons (the ones i casually checked) rings were free, so of course i broke 3 of the remaining stuck rings on 2 of the other cylinder trying to get them out. Bugger. I do also have a spare set of 2300 rings, but they are marginally too thick to fit the grooves on this later (115 C) engine, and id feel weird 'wasting' 2 pistons worth of rings/ a rare set anyway. Seems like the 1500 engine rings are pretty thin on the ground too! So they might fit the engine in the van yet, maybe. Turns out this engine probably isn't as good as i thought/hoped anyway, so made a start on prepping the engine and box to come out so i can see what bits are fucked or different on both, and actually might need to buy. Not really done anything in the engine bay yet, but it is complete excepting the factory air cleaner Radiator was empty and came out (needs the neck resoldering and there is lumps of dried silt in the bottom but otherwise good nick!) wiring disconnected, just starter/alternator wiring to go, and i may remove a few more accessories like the carb just in case. Ill drop this out the bottom, pretty sure its supposed to come out that way, the hole in the top is just for checking fluids but someone has hacked it before. its only 4 bolts each side that hold the engine crossmember on from underneath and has a funny hanging gearbox mount that im glad looks like its not busted as well.

thats a funny way of saying 8.1%-9% better acceleration the 185/55 14s are uncommon, the 13s were common as muck, they may be 185s too, maybe? Front were Rear springs from (i think??) the FWD version, as in my mind the springs were very easy to pop out of their sockets from the wide selection at PAP. Still needed 2 coils dropped off. Rear springs on my sedan are reset 2 or 3 inches lower (? cant recall) and is pretty soft as a result, but has new Koni yellow up front (softest setting) and 2nd hand koni red in the rear (hardest setting) and it drives very well. Couple of 125 racers said you want the rear soft for traction. - truck as 3 leaves and they are stiff as feck, but that has the spring pack think put in upside down which may be a slightly better approach to maintain the same spring rate but also get lower

the tyres ive got are 195/60 13s, or 185/55 14s but ive never really drove it standard/ unlowered which is i think 165/80 13 or similar? All my rims are fairly weak offset too. unless you are track daying it i dont think it will really matter too much, the wider track from new rims will feel more planted and a bit more effort to turn at low speeds, and can feel tracky/tramlining if you dont get the alignment right. Your going to lower it too, right? Right?

CD66 If you dont like them, ill take them to the dump for ya

Disassembled the engine a bit more using the lights in a garage after work. Cam chain pretty loose. Is a FIAT stamped one so probably original. The chain stretches a bit over time but the main source of increased tolerance, is the gears themselves wear. The chain had been slapping the inside of the aluminium cover too, and has actually worn a hole in one spot. This will be the source of the metallic crud in the centrifugal filter (which is on the end of the crank nose) Took the head apart, Something ive not seen in any of the old Fiat engines ive dismantled before, pretty bad valve recession on several of the intake and exhaust valves, a couple of the seats are also similarly rounded too. Some of them are also fine. Its pretty weird. Hopefully the head on the engine in the van is better. The block disassembled next, camshaft and crankshaft are good, piston big ends look new, main bearings could do with replacing. Pistons all look new as well, and all the rings freed up pretty easily. Cylinder 3 looks to have a liner installed and the cylinder itself looks the same but has F45 cast on it compared to the other ones which have F35. I wonder if the new head bottom end gaskets and very good condition piston bearings and bores are evidence of some work at some point? Could have had head issues too (dropped a valve maybe?) and they slapped a worn out but 'known runner' on the refreshed bottom end? Anyway, decided this bottom end looks pretty good and given the other engine is seized ill probably run this one, hoping that the other head is in better nick. Bit of a tidy up with some Phosphoric acid on the outside and the water blaster all up and though that to get all the rusty shite out of the block coolant galleries Put some engine enamel on the outside, which is good for at least 10 HP and because its smoke coloured on the outside the engine hopefully wont smoke as much from the inside Dang nang it! Better now than on the first start up i guess.