azzurro

awesome work man, i know it was a mission on my Fiat, but its mostly squares, roundy bits, sheesh! try an old sack with sand in it too good for bashing curves in, similar principle to shot bags but 0.1% the price. This photo here reminds me of my old one(s) - my first one was this colour, then i got a cream one (like MJ Foxs) and had those rims on it. Fuck yeah, student loan lump sum living costs! Would love another VW

Since the last update I have been in touch with Murray @ Weber Specialties to drop the DHLA carbs off asap for him to have a look at. I was hoping to avoid being upsold a new set of Webers, but hes been good the couple of times ive used him, and other potentially? good places including a couple that were reccomended are not handy for me to get to. All the other places i emailed didnt respond either, so, whatevs. Anyway, In prep for doing this ive swapped back in my old twin throat Weber 34DMS. I have always had trouble with it before i put on the sideys, (flatspots, missing under load etc), so i gave it a quick clean up, and took all the jets out and putting it back to early base model ones back in from my wee collection. Then took it for a test drive, went very well, esp when the secondary open up! revs smooth and strong to 6000 before hitting a wall, but it sings along now from 3500 to 5500 especially, but still a bit of a halt when moving from cruise to full throttle but nothing im going to try to 'tune' out. Highlights how much the issues with getting the sideys right are holding the car back, the dells have the definite edge in the midrange, but splutter and bog the car ones the main circuit comes on because of the internal leaks i guess. The dells have much more tourque down low, but the single Weber revs better! Surely thats the wrong way around! Im really happy to finally have the car running something like it should, damn carbs! If the dellortos can be sorted to deliver what they are capable of ill be super happy. It may or may not loose traction very easily, but predicably if you drop it into second (and sometimes 3rd) on gravel, with Slayer turned up

Woopsie forgoto this one from 2 weeks ago: Since last update Ive done nothing I bothered to take photos of, but still plenty of fiddly jobs, and with a bit of a Nats push to get them done. I oringinally got the car from Palmy on Anzac Day (25th) 2010, which is nearly 3 years ago, so hopefully I will be finally driving a 125 back from there too! Ive trailered 3 125s from there now and thats enough of that! OIL - topped up the oil again, drops oil only when the engine is running, a little out of a few spots but a lot out of the area between the back of the engine and the gearbox. Rear Crank Seal i bet, Not terminal, but annoying esp with a new clutch BRAKES - fixed leaking rear passenger side caliper (replaced seal - i have 3 types, 124 ones that are way too small and some 125/132 ones, but i had a look though my spares and the new ones i put in are maybe 2mm larger in ID/OD and were not tight fit on the piston. I chucked in the smaller ones and they work better, i think was the fix i used on the other side too. SHOCKS - while i had the car in the air doing the rear brakes i pulled the Koni Reds from the rear. THey were on full soft which was a bit too soft and baggy. They have 2 1/4 turns so i did one full turn and put them back in. Wow! so much tighter in the back, the rear lets go a bit too easy now (honestly officer)! perhaps a bit too stiff, but they are such a pain to pull out and adjust ill leave them for now. PERTRONIX - installed Pertronix, and timed up, seems to run more or less as before, (points etc were near new anyway, in the boot now for just in case), hard to test high rpm differences as car didnt run so well at high before anyway! IGNITION SWTCH - installed the Lada Ignition switch, results are not as anticipated. I think my relays prevent some sort of weird back feeding that the original wiring require to work properly. Anyway, ive wired it up so ive no ACC much as before, and soldered to the pins with a molex plug between the switch and the relay feeds for easy hotwiring . Much less wavering on the volts and lights now so thats better i guess. Fills the hole in the srround better too and much more secure. HAND THROTTLE - went to replace the hand throttle cable with the new one, what a mission! From getting the clip off the handle to fedding the cable back behind the dash, it battled me the whole way. Ended up reusing the original one, a fitting on the cable on the inside of the firewall grommet was preventing me from extending it. Used an old needle valve as a stopper in the firewall for the cable sheath and extended the cable to the carbs. Might have to take a photo of that one. Works great Only 2 jobs i want to before going to Palmy. Get the carbs sorted so it FINALLY runs properly, and get the exhaust adjusted so it doesnt clatter on the bloddy diff going around corners (like a told the guy it would). I may even get the big centre muffler swapped out for a smaller one as it doesnt 'crackle' as it should and this is also whats causeing the rubbing. CARBS! - new jets seem to work better to a point, but i need to pay a guy to get the rear most carb fixed. Been reading up a lot, on 'dellorto drip' as its called and my syptoms are typical: - wildly different balance on barrels at idle - check - idle mix makes little or no differnce to vacuum - check - fuel bowl drains quickly when not running - check - driving is good/ok on idle and progression cicuits but 'flat' on mains, can sometimes feather through to higher rpm but WOT? - Check What happens is the press fit lead plugs to seal some of the inner drilling passages can be knocked/blown or corrode out, letting unmetered fuel from the bowl into the main and/or idle jet stacks. Here is a DRLA that somebody chopped up to show what happens. Im sure barell 4 has this in the main and maybe barrel 1 a smaller leak in the idle circuit. Fix is to pull the lead plugs and either tap the holes and replace with grub screws, or epoxy or amalgam.

^Cheers guys^ I thought id put my nats list here then i can tick things off as they are done: my relatively short and easy list: - fix leaking LH rear caliper (again!) - go back to exhuast place to get muffler moved so it stops taptaptapping on universal joint going around corners (just like i said it would .grr.) - pull carbs off (again) and see if i can find whats going on esp. with the rear one. Its deffo dellorto drip. need to pay a guy - fit pertronix/timing/sparkplugs - fit new lada ignition switch last weekend: ign switch in. one pin out doesnt work as anticpated. bodgey bridge effective - electrics are go, except lights/indicators work with the key off/out. may change the bridged pin source so only has off/run/start and forget about ACC. cleaned sparkplugs again. fitted the pertornix to dizzy/timed by eye. didnt start first go. went back inside. (I read the instructions again, - Step 1: remove capacitor... ) this week after work: with the help of my boy got the car running again with the new pertronix. I had the timing 'right', but for some reason wont run without a bit more advance. I had closed up the spark plug gap a bit as well, so maybe thats it? also had to trim back the steering wheel boss and plastic column shoud as the new switch sits a bit prouder.of the socket. took ages. Today: Spent the morning trolling the interwebs re my carbs, symptoms are classic dellorto drip (unbalanceable carbs, one (or both) barels rich/idle mix has no effect) - sometimes the lead plugs used to block drilled passages can work loose and let (unmetered) fuel from the bowl into the main jet stack. Ive emailed a few carb places to see what they say - the fix is basically to pull the outer lead plugs to get to the inner leaky ones and replace with grub screws. This means 4 teeny and 4 tiny grub screws (2 for each barrell) right inside the carbs so might not be cheap). Played with the balancer again anyway, idles nice again. Removed leaky rear caliper, ended up that the replacement seals i used when i refreshed the calipers was maybe not tight enough on the piston. Reservior was almost empty again! Swapped in an old seal and seems to be holding. This was the fix i did on the other side and that hasnt leaked again so fingers crossed. Ive left the rim off and a paper towel to see in the morning. Just the exhaust to be adjusted and the carbs to be fixed now.

can use vice grips in absence of clamps but be careful of over doing it and busting the soft lines. you say youve had the cylineder out so maybe you just need to adjust the rod between the pedal and booster correctly to bring the pedal up a bit? pedal sinking with revs* is a sign that the booster is working (from manifold vacuum assisting your foot pressure) but shoudnt really be that noticable. You prbably have air in the system somewhere that is compressing. bleed it again before adjusting the rod. *usual test that booster is 'working' is to put your foot on the brake when off and start car, pedal should drop slightly but be firm after that.

might have a few fiat 125 bits and pieces that may fit this in my stash if you get stuck. I definitly have some of the shiny centre cap things with the lada logo on them that go on the front wheels that i will bring to the next BF meet/nats?

Aaaaand I got some more stuff too, this time from autoricambi.us: 1. 78deg themostat fan switch for radiator (cool runnin's) 2. Ignition switch. I had a wee chuckle at getting a russian-made part from good ol' US of A. Current switch is an 850 style one, and despite cutting my own key from a blank to make it work after the locksmith gave up, and having it apart more than once its innards now require the odd jiggle to make connections even just to trigger the relays ive got to take the load off it it, and the ACC position has been bypassed. Anyway, Lada switch it is. 3. Choke cable (to replace the snapped & just-too-short hand throttle cable, and so save my pinkie toe from resting on the acellerator and nursing the throttle when cold (not connecting the chokes on the sideys!) - will try change over the knob for the nice smooth, small and cool OEM one, this one is ugly, big and has a modern style surfacing and poor finish - probalby another Russian sourced part - was only $10 so not complaining, just sayin). 4. Pertronix ignitor electronic ignition kit. No more breaker points for me The pertronix kit is remarkably simple and small, just a sensor, a fitting plate and some fitting gubbins. Came with a page of instructions, and fitting is no problem, but they are a bit unclear on a couple of points WRT to the wiring. They basically say "black to - on coil, red to + terminal on coil" which seems simple enough. BUT it doent mention anything about the condensor. I guess the red is to power whatever is in the little black box, and the black is the trigger to replace the breaker points, yeah. So, can i just connect it as per the points (ie to the condensor?) Isnt that a permanent ground? Do i leave the condensor connected? Do i still need it? Suggestions welcomed. While waiting for this to arrive I was also pondering how the Pertonix works - obv. it works much as any other electronic ignition does and senses the lobes on the cam in the dizzy as they spin past. This is an Uno electrinic dizzy (the shaft is ...just... too short to engage or i would have saved my pennies ) with an electronic dizzy rotor. Note the lobe design, made to create strongly differentiated wave forms in the sensor. However, This is an early 124B dizzy of the kind i have fitted, and has a 1" cam lobe. However the flats are only 1/16" less in diameter than the lobes. (all the other, later MM Fiat dizzies I have have a much smaller diameter cam with consequently even less min/max diameter difference). Given the lobes are very shallow and unpronounced they would not lend themselves to a creating a distinct waveform, i imagine it will have some trouble sensing (accurately) the lobes spinning past at engine RPM? So the benifit is less fiddling with points but still lack of precise timing? (or am i just inventing problems??) I was pondering trying to exaggerate the lobes by removing material (cant do because of rebate in base, oh, and a lack of any sort of precision tools) or somehow fitting an electronic style cam. Any suggestions? The other option would be to cut and shut the shaft on the Uno one with a bit from one of my twin cam ones, but again, no precision tools will likley mean wobbles. Or just fit the damn thing and stop thinking so much!

Have not had much time for this lately but with nationals coming up and along drive pending Ive been thinking and ordering bits. I had a couple packages arrive from england (dellorto.co.uk) even with shipping this stuff was much much cheaper than local suppliers, which is a shame. some new jets, a malpassi regulator with filter/bowl and a rebuild kit for my DHLAs: and a carbtune thing for both intial setting up and also constant fiddling: the new jets are 60 idle jets (up from 58) and 200 main air correctors (down from 240). These should richen the idle and progression phase ever so slightly, and will also richen the main phase mixture (less air) but without adding more gas, as the main jets are already 145 which is big for a 1600. These are emmissions carbs wiith the very lean .11 tubes and unnumbered idle holders and these minor changes will *hopefully* fix the over rich (too much adjustement - beyond 4 turns) idle mix but nice progression phase, with a lean to the point of slowing down main phase issues. Hard to find info about these carbs on the net as most people bung the usual non-emissions jets and emulsion tubes in to 'fix' the lean settings and wonder why they run worse (hence the poor reputation), but these are the penultimate evolution of Mr E Weber's orignal sidedraft carb design and have slightly different operating principles to the 'performance' ones. The super 'lean' emusion tubes actually reverse flow and 'self tune' the main phase and work along with the many progression holes, so changing out the 'special' tubes for normal ones will make them run worse. It may also be that the original fuel pump couldnt keep up on WOT but it is so throttle position sensitive i doubt it. Tthe extra reservoir in the fule bowl of the regulator should act as a bit of a surge tank, and if that seems to drain too quick, i have a Facet to try as well. I popped the jets in along with a couple of easily accessible gaskets and o-rings from the rebuild kit, connected the Carbtune and fiddeled away. Seems to idle much nicer now, but interestingly barrel 3 has considerably less vacuum than all the rest (could this be choking on the fender???) and 4 needs serious air correcting (rich) to bring it back to 3 and the idle mix on either barrel on the rear carb made little difference to vacuum readings. I think the rear carb needs pulling off for a good lookover, as it may have the dreaded 'dellorto drip' as the fuel bowl drains overnight and the idle mix thing is all wierd, whereas the front carb balanced up super nice just on the idle mix screws and stays full of gas. No test drive as yet tho to see if the proof is in the pudding with my jetting. Has a bit more of a crackle on overrun now too which suggests a lean condition, despite the richer jettings and the exhaust is not as stingy on the eyes! Also popped the Malpassi on the scuttle, bolted right onto a couple of handy factory bolts in the firewall (parcel tray holder ) and seems to have smoothed the idle a bit more too. Looks the part as well i think. I also made a start to declutter the passenger side of the engine bay to smooth airflow to the carbs as there is all sorts of stuff on that fender, (coil, dizzy, relays, radiator bottle etc) and almost nothing on the drivers side fender (just the exhaust and brake master). The radiator is also offset towards the passenger side as well, making a perfect cut out and heaps of room for a cold airfeed, but on the wrong/exhaust side Its like the car was desinged for the carbs to be on the other side. I only have these two small holes for air and not a lot of much more room even with cutting which im not keen on between the rad (which also blows hot air to the carbs when the fan is on ) and the lights. Moving the radiator over a bit would be the best solution but requires major surgery. The rad overflow bottle seems big and in the way but doesnt really block any potential airflow, but i may try reversing the radiator (I need to get a new one or a flush/leaks fixed anyway) to put the hoses and etc towards the other side of the car. So only moved the 'colostomy bag' wiper reservoir over (which was blocking even those two small holes, and also resulting in a much shorter hose routing too!), with the coil and relays to still to swap positions and that is about all i can do i think. Im also expecting another package this time from the states with an electronic ignition conversion amonst other stuff, so she should be running top top soon.

nah, potatoplop, can you see the pixels? ha

yeah you do

i wish x1000 i had made one of these when i did my fiat, instead of lying on my back getting rusty crap and underseal in my everything. i reckon a circular piece with more holes in it to get the angle just so would be a sweet upgrade, but probably unescessary also unsure if required but some gussets or extra triangulation on the feet would make me feel better about wailing on the car that is up on it.

just pay on the basis that it is worth something as a collection of potentially usable parts and if you find it runs later then you win, rather than paying over the odds on the assumption its a 'good runner' you require desperately for your daily. vary $ on the basis of truthiness of mates of mates claims and any objective testing tips raised in this thread?

Did the non-obvious thing and richened up the idle mix considerably and seems to be both going and idling much better (if a bit fast - 1500-2000rpm), and maybe the total advance is a bit too much, static could maybe come back a bit now that the carbs seem to be dialed in a bit better, and i also think it may be a bit lean on the mains as it runs/accellerates in all gears better on less than 1/2 throttle (progression phase incl a bit from teh idle mix curcuit) than on WOT (mains only), but is particulalry noticable in 4th. Yet to have the valve clearances checked/shims done or book in withWeber Specialties. Also put the meshies back on with some awesome near new Direzza tyres i got from Sambo, and also painted them a bit darker grey (after this photo) My closed road testing suggests handling is improved. Went to the Kumeu Classic Car and Hot Rod Show over the weekend, we run Mrs Azzurros boss's coffee cart as a bit of an annual thing, so this is pretty much the only photo i took there, we did quite nicely on the coffees too: Had plenty of piners and "I/my brother/mate had one of those back in the day and it was bloody awesome" as well as a few "wha' the fark is that", and plenty of "dont see many of these any more" as well as a couple of offers to buy Here is an 'after' shot back at Volt HQ with the van:

Hey man good to see you today, be much keen on a hoon with that carb tool, ill pm you you to discuss further - happy to pay postage etc + beer tokens Sorry bro, this i have not done - the Fiat Twin Cam uses a shim on bucket setup (set and forget) rather than an adjustable nut type thing and you need a special tool (or a specially bent screwdriver) and a box of shims.to swap in/out to gain the correct cleances neither of which i have. I may have a guy lined up to do mine for me but i need to take my car to him he wont lend his tools.

ive made a wee bit of progress on my list in the post above. I have topped up the oil, and purchased some BP5EY plugs which are a bit hotter and have a fancy v cut in the electrod and it defintily etter, still dropping cylinder 4 at idle. Pretty sure its compression related but will also check for vacuum leaks and improve the engine and battery/chassis earthing tomorrow. Other than that i hanvt touched the engine since returning from Nationals. I have however teed up an exFIAT mechanic and race guy to check out the shims at some point and am pondering getting some vernier camwheels first to properly dial the cams in at the same time. These engines the factory camwheels are only adjustable in relation to each other and the crank by skipping a tooth on the belt which is way too much. Will go these if i do. Sooo shiney and billety... http://www.millersmu...y-aluminum.html I have however installed the seats i had lined up for it which ended up being simpler to do than i thought. Still took almost 2 days tho! (Whole day for the first one, less than half for the second) They are from a 80's Corona GT Coupe (a luxo version of the Celica) so are the peak of Japanese over engineering. While they may be a bit 'new' they are a gazillion times more comfortable and supportive, and i have the blue faux-sheepskin covers to hide them with if anyone is offended Surprisingly they are also quite a bit heavier than the high backs, not surprising when this is the seat tilt adjust mechanism! Turned out pretty good and required only a couple of bits 'remanufacturing' to fit to allow for the 125's stupid 50mm mount height difference (inside to outside rails) and the Toyotas slightly narrower rail 'guage'. I have basically rotated the Toyota mounts 90 degrees to line up with the Fiat captive nuts, the inner is fitted as per Fiat mountings. I will probably improve the outer rail mounts eventally by getting some steel plate bent up into a long 'Z' shape, 50mm in overall height, one for each seat. That should also allow fitment of almost any OEM or aftermarket seat in the future. Interior only needs the dash swapped out (heater box too) im seriously procrastinating on this job!) for my better spare and some new carpert and that should be that. Mrs Azzurro and I are running the Volt Espresso (http://voltespresso.co.nz/#/home) coffee cart at the Kumeu Hot Rod Show again this year, which is on this weekend. Should be another doozy. Pop in and say hello (by the swap meet/bouncy castles) if you are attending, free coffee for all OSers that say hi!

Took this for a shakedown hoon a couple weekends back to a Fiat club fun run at Hampton Downs, Fiat Nationals racing was on the sunday, this was the low key Saturday. Line Up: Fave Car: These are a few of my favourite things: On the fun run, having fun following directions Action Shot (photo by Myte128) Driving to and from the Nationals the car went pretty well, burning about 500ml of oil, ~40l of premium and a set of plugs over 300km, but it also highlighted that there are a few issues still. However im pretty confident that they are issues of (my own) adjustment/setup and not mechanical failure. - carbs/running - still a bit funny, definitly running rich, dropping cylinders esp at idle (fouled plugs?) and have hard starting and hot idle problems. My neighbour came over yesterday for a fiddle, and we had a play around and tested a few things. The brand new hotter plugs (BP7ES instead of the usual BP6ES) were quite fouled from the 300km drive! Reset the idle mix to only 1 1/4 screws out each which usually would be very lean, but the carbs are emissions ones that already have been modified with oversized idle mix jets (58 instead of a usual 35-40) to address the typical lean progression phase with these carbs. Seems to idle much better now (i think the plugs were periodically flooding/fouling?), but i will take it to Weber Specialties to properly tune & balance, after... - tappets and timing - still have not got the tappets sorted out, but hopfully this week. Setting up the timing is also a bit of an issue due to the very limited rotation with the position of the manifold and carbs, tho i think ive got it pretty much on now. I think the leading carb should/could be moved about 3-5mm rearwards which will mean tigging and redrilling the mount bolts, but would improve dissy clearance significnatly. Will ask Murray about this. - random oil pressure drop! happended a couple times on the cruise on the way back and not on any particular bendy bits, - OMFG code brown!!! idiot light on, also guage v low, but no noise or rev changes, and then just as randomly is fine again. I think a baffled sump might be in order, though to be fair oil was a wee bit low (like 1/2 to 1/4 below full). Could have been an odd air bubble in the filter take off (where both the factory light and my oild guage are connected?) - seats - current high back ones have a few springs poking in annoying palces and are not that comfortable on longer drives as we found, so thats a bit of motivation to crack on with fitting the blue velour Corona GT ones i have.

I have been informed that we will definitly be having BF for dinner on the 23rd.

ha, tempting to 'upgrade' my present parts car to something that is more likely to both yield useful parts and made mostly out of metal. Looks like he is making a move overseas. Not sure if doing a 125 resto or mining in Aussie is harder work. Lincooln good you found what you needed, Fiat twin cam era engine/drivetrain parts are pretty readily avaliable ive found, its the body type stuff thats a problem, which is dumb as those are the bits that need repairing/replacing the most.

Cheers chaps, pulled the plugs today, one with a touch of wet (petrol + oil) fouling the other 3 with dry carbon fouling, cleaned em and back in and it starts and runs fine, so thats nice i guess. fiddled with the carbs some more to even up the vacuum as best i could by ear, and also lean the idle mix right back (2 1/2 turnsish on the idle bypass screw), seems much happier/smoother now. Have Fiat Nationals at Hampton Downs on the weekend of the 5th & 6th of January that i want to attend (the Saturday), will take some spare plugs i think! Anyone else going along?

yay christmas/time off! New front component speakers ive had for a while installed, woofers in the kick panel and tweeters in the old centre dash Music sounds awesome now but, I think while driving it might not get used so much Also tidied up a bunch of wiring, and moved the amp to under the seat. Didnt swap my uncraked dash in or even look at the heater while i was there. These photos also show how much that front carpet needs replacing Scored a pretty much NOS Momo Montecarlo steering wheel off Ridal of this very website had to swap bits and pieces between the various horn 'buttons' and logos around to get a working 'momo' logoed one, but worked out sweet. This is the momo logo awaiting modification to fit in the delogoed sportline button, and the completed momo to sportline 'holefiller'. I was a bit hohum about its modern design but after using it even for a little while it its definitly staying The Momo logo fell off the horn button immediately after this photo Need some foam stickies. This is the previous wooden Sportline, which I never quite liked the look or feel of for some reason, that will be for sale soon And some blue filter socks so i can put the rams on, as well as some spare filter stuff for the ramflows to justify the postage. Family drive to a picnic today didnt go well, started running on 3 that some itialian tuning on the throttle didnt fix. Luckily we still were pretty much around the corner to nurse it home getting progressivly worse and stall on the driveway. I suspect carboned up plugs from rich running and/or crap in the carbs from that crappy filter material that was in the ramflos.

more media than im allowed to! what? Video 1: Video 2:

well a much better day today. Woke up and checked my brake fluid leak checking paper towelTM on the passenger side - nothing , check the drivers - totally soaked Swapped out the piston and seal for another, and tested by bleeding it and then putting a bit of wood between the piston and the arms, then pressing on the pedal and it seemed to be ok. Excellent. Wheels on, and then FINALLY!!! a bit of this : and then into town for this: This also happened somewhere along the way Is there such a thing as too much Doooooorrrrt? and this one because WoF: Merry xmas everyone

Woke up this morning hoping to fire her up, back up the ramps, fit the battery tray, test drive and pootle into town for a WoF, and then onto the Burger Fuel meet this evening. Best laid plans and all... Got the bigger battery tray in OK with plenty of help from my small assistant who fits in the boot, but hang on, whats this: (the big patch on the mat is the brake fluid from sitting overnight, the puddle next to it is from taking the wheel off and getting the camera!) My old calipers that i put back in fingers crossed have bitten me right on the ass. These have been leaking out the piston. This is how much fluid leaked, overnight, just sitting - yep, pretty much all of it faaark!: Somehow they have got worse. The reason i didnt replace the leaky calipers and put my spare calipers in the first time (like 2 months ago) is this broken bleeder screw: I thought i was toast, but of course there is nothing that cant be fixed or improved with a few blobs of weld: And after two or three attempts (the easyout i broke off in there some months ago came out first!) got it out: Swapped all the innards over, cleaned off most of the crap and they are in and bled now, and hopefully no leaks. Ive left the wheels off andput a towel down to check for leaks over night. So, no Burger Fuel for me tonight, but I think that should just about be it, pending any further catastrophic failures. WoF tomorrow maybe

I second the killrust, worked ok, and seemed happiest straight on bare metal. Havnt used POR15 tho. thin it out about 20% (with turps) and it seems to stick better, dry smoother and go further/creep into cracks, you will need multi coats tho and make sure its dry before trying to recoat (it takes aaaages to dry) or you will peel off your previous coat with the brush. I found if you slap it on thick it can peel or chip off, esp if its over primer (even the wattyl killrust primers)

125 failed to leave the shed today, so wont be attending Have just got it buttoned up now (replaced both rear calipers and a lot of brake fluid), but my wof place is now closed. Dammit, should have got up a couple hours earlier...