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azzurro

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Everything posted by azzurro

  1. so no progress on the 2L. Wof is now expired on the Fiat, (rear brakes leaking - need to swap calipers, oil leaks? bah!) and i have a 1608 in bits all though the garage. I want to reassemble that and get it out of the shed (in red oxide maybe?) before starting on the 2L. I have also finally asked the landlord to cut a hole in the house for acceess to this space between the garage and laundry; Took a weekend to make a door and move all the crap and whotnot. thats a heap more storage 'onsite' (our house is only 80m2) so progress on a few things might progress, Now that all that crap doesnt have to clutter up the garage! My daily has also died - this is it in its glory days a few years ago: SUZY 1998 Suzuki Baleno GTX, 1839cc, 16v, DOHC, EFI, tein springs and K&N fitler and to date, 369,000km of trouble free motoring (i got it at 192,000km) Finally 'died' a couple weeks ago, seems to idle ok, but wont drive, I thought cam chain finally stretched enough to mess the timing or it had worn though a tensioner (been rattly for ages). It also has a bit of rust from living at the beach and had some electrical problems and wet carpet from leak ink due to the rust i guess. Its been parked up in disgrace for the last 4 weeks and ive been driving my Van the 75km daily commute. That novelty has now worn off. So I bought this from a guy at work. He has owned it since 1998. As purchased: 1996 Toyota Corolla GL wagon, typical NZ new spec, (ie base trim, winder windows, AC, and fuel efficient engine), 229,000km (just been run in ) popped into pickapart on the way home - no cupholders but i did get some new lights to replace the typically hazed OEM ones typical NZ new fleet repmobile specification, (ie base interior trim, winder windows, AC, and fuel efficient engine) This is after putting in a steering wheel i found in the boot at pickapart to replace the rolly one it came with - camry maybe? Mighty 4A-FE, after a can of supercheaps finest engine degreaser and washworlds finest power sprayer on the way home - it was much worse before! And after an inspection and a vacuum, I swapped the wheels off the Suzuki, clenaed out the ICV (high idle - was sticky as per usual) and a good clean and polish its ready for its first 5 days of 80km round trip commutes: RUBY I also started stripping the Suzuki (wheels, stereo, etc) to send it away. Had to pull the carpet and the bungs in the boot Neighbour pops over to chat about new car and mentions collapsed cat as an unusual late 90s car thing, so i take that off while im under there. And whatdayablardy know! Engine goes sweet, and J18A Sounds super badass on open headers. Suzy may ride again!
  2. oh ok. I will probably stick with the standard compression (unless the engine needs new pistons?) as it leves my future induction options a bit more open
  3. cheers man, im pretty stoked, ive started a bit of a list for more stuff and I forgot a few things too, so ill be going back - he has literal pipes of fiat stuff - any orders? My 1600 is an early series (1608cc) and the pistons dont fit in a 2l block (80 vs 84mm diameter) but i think the later 1600 blocks (ie 1582cc) pistons would fit as they are based on a 2l with a short stroke? My twin dellortos are from a 2l alfa and i have the original jets
  4. Other stuff i got includes these An exhaust drive cam box (can run the straight shot inlet manifold for the sideys), and a nice electronic cam drive dizzy (control box TBD) I also got lots of other cams and cam boxes, including 1608 124BC sport ones, which are the higest spec cams fitted to these older series engines I also got 2x 5 speed gearboxes. 1 is a Low milage picakpart special Polonez box and the other is a 124BC? 5 speed box (same as 125 Special) but with a bad second. There was also a 131 ZF box as well but needs more tunnel work to fit With these two I need 'just' to swap the bell housing and extension from the bung Fiat box onto the good Polonez one to make an easy fit (must raise the tunnel) or Swap the bell housing only and have the gear stick come up too far forward, but could add en extension with a big bend. Fiat (posteriore) Polonez (prossimo) note the mirroed starter position (drivers side) on the Polonez Fiat (L) Polonez ® Some work to do before that goes in (current 4 speed is fine so no rush) but looking forward to an overdrive gear for cruising. Also got a collapsable and adjustable 132 steering column which will bolt in i believe (EDIT - need the 132 steering box as well, but with that, it will all bolt up): Unsure on using the switchgear for purely aesthetic reasons only, but i bet i could swap the plugs over and it would plug right into the 125 loom without fuss. Also got a couple of hub caps, a Fiat radiator fan, and all sorts of other possibly useful stuff Like a kid in a candy shop Exciting times ahead!
  5. On the weekend i went and checked out HaymanRacings awesome little Delta as a possible engine donor. It is a Mk1 Delta 1.6 Turbo with a blow through carb and lots of work. http://www.turbo124.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=10409 It is damn quick and opened my eyes to the performance potential of these engines/lack of performance ive had from mine. As totally awesome as that engine would be, fitting that engine, particulalry the turbo and fuel stuff would require more pantsing around to fit in my older rwd setup than im willing to invest into, and has the addtional issues of certification for road use, which im not keen on as its not exactly what i was looking for (too much POWAAAAAAHHHH-pisssshh - Oh im gonna regret not getting it for ever, i know!). TBH I want to keep it slightly more sedate and controllable, with a turbs it would be too hard not to be silly and im too crap at driving for that. Anyway, later that day i followed up another engine lead and i think hit the jackpot of hidden Fiat Treasure, which pretty much checked ALL the boxes. Headed home with a literal van load of FIAT booty! An engine, two gearboxes, steering column and i dont know how many other things. First up, a 2L late model 131R Block (131B2) with (apparently) a big valve Lancia head (Casting# 2992169), Looks pretty crusty from being removed from a running car and plonked in a shed for a few years, but its not seized and the cams are in good condition. The Weber DAT 32 carb stuck on the side is missing at least one or two screws but other wise looks fine too, but i really want the sideys to go on this. I was pleased to begin the clean up by putting a couple of my 'new' cam covers on it i think this will also be the solution to lowering the front that missing inch
  6. hey bigfoot, welcome to pick up whenever, but im in takapuna during the day or muriwai in the evenings (no pickaparts there ). Maybe i could leave it with someone at BF, or you could go home the scenic way friday?
  7. Ive been pregressing the unnuesessary engine stripdown as its more interesting than hiding my bodywork repairs (bog, sand, repeat...). When i bought the car from TradeMe, the storey the seller had been told/told me was that the engine had $500 spent on 'head work' before being parked up in the late 80's. Well one of the cam/head gaskets has definitly been replaced, but the other one definitly hadnt (ie the leaky one right over the exhaust).I think what happened was the money was spent on the bottom end. Maybe the car was parrked up after spending big money on the engine, and the body 'repairs' it developed a scary engine noise (thing in the head) and the owners lost faith? The oily shiote on the head and pistons is from being started infrequently, rich running and maybe worn valve stems/seals. Main bearings - this is the worst one - just bit of grit or something, no running wear really, possibly not even run in? Crank - looks/feels nice enough: Also the pistons are Mondial ones, as best as i can measure they are 0.6 oversized (they have 6.1 stamped on top and 2127-5 on the inside), and this is as removed. Big End bearings are also nice and new No signs of major blowby below the rings, ring lands themselves seem clean etc, The cylinder bores while without evidence of cross hatching are smooth enough without any major scoring or massive ridges (there is a ridge just not a big one) So i cleaned up the piston crowns, 3 came up nice: The other one perhaps looked better covered in oil, ash and carbon : I carefully planished the biggest lumps back down and a bit of file work followed by a wirewheel, I think other than replacing the pistons (not gonna heppen for this engine!) its as good as its gonna get. Rear water jacket cover off Block cleaned up, wirewheeled, rust converted and a coat of azzurro: After thinking about it, im just going to reassemble this with new gaskets instead of spending heaps on machining and new pistons + a rebore as its already at 0.6 over and it wont be any worse than before unless i break something, and its just for a spare/practice anyway TBH id rather spend the same $ to get a newer/larger capacity engine, but first i need to pull the head apart to see how the valves are. #1 could be a worry but doesnt seem any worse than the other cylinders so I might be lucky.
  8. yeah, went to check out my rusty crap and the 1/4 windows i thought i had are stuck in complete not very rusty doors, not half rusted away doors like i thought. So i didnt put them in the boot. Have some other bits tho. you could get things like these/ almost exactly what the 125 ones are: http://www.vwheritage.com/vw_spares_Latch-Quarter-Window-T1-64-and-T2-67-113837639A_act_shop.product_pID_66383_lang_EN_country_GB.htm
  9. but...even the new ones can be cool* *(ish), from certain angles. Keen on BF after chickening out last time due to a spot of rain. Hopefully will beat the pending weather bomb, and WoF runs out on the 20th so get some miles in while i can. Also have a boot of things for people some mirrors for Triumphrod i think, sway bar for Bigfoot and maybe some lada stuff for a lada/fiat perve.
  10. Inspired by all the enginey stuff going on at the mo, i thought i would make a start on stripping down the original engine that came in the car. Ive never done this (to a car engine) before so any tips welcomed! I have a few questions too. I wanted to see how this one looked compared to the one thats in there, that i painted on the outside only, and probably also needs a stripdown and new gaskets thoughout, so this is practice for that. Its also been on the stand in the corner of my too small garage for too long, so breakin it down into smaller parts makes it easier to lose them. The actually engine did run fine, if a bit smokey and oily (ie no worse than my 'new' one) and i would have been happy to fit it back in and drive it if i didnt have that other engine that has lumpy cams and new pistons which tipped the balance that way. Anyways, into it. Head off, relatively clean on the outside. But pretty coked up on the inside! Both the Inlet and exhaust ports were also grimy and carboned up. Starting to clean it up a bit more my rag kept catching on something...Oh noes! And a matching dent in the piston. Is a bit of 2mm diam hardened blue steel, looked like the tip of a sparkplug or maybe the tip of a valve spring or something Looks like it bounced around and damaged the head but not so much the piston or valves before the sharp end went into the head. The cams also seem to have these sections of flatspots (hard to photo but can feel them) but the lobes themselves seem smooth.. Both cams and all lobes are the same. Is it a casting issue or is a sign of something? The base circel seems like it hasnt been rubbing on the tappet surface. In other things, the bores seem smooth, no vertical scoring or ridges, and no taper that i can see with a flat edge enyway, and the crank turns over pretty smoothly too. Ive still pull the sump off, crank out or obtain a valve sping compressor, but will the head need welding up or that piston replacing? Whats up with those cams?? I was hopping for a 'clean up and change the gaskets' type thing, not really spending heaps on machining.
  11. while on the grinding and welding buzz I also had to sort out the front passenger door for two reasons: 1: this is rust coming though bog on the lower leading edge, and was bubbling on the outer skin as well. Chopped it out, bashed out a new inner bit in and carefully put a section of new skin on top tapping it over to match the factory finish. 2: But mainly needed to shave about 2mm off about 100mm of the upper leading edge so it no longer binds on the fender when the door is adjusted properly. This was the least-hard method (the other was doing the same thing to the fender, which would have made a hard to close hole in it). I put a wee bead down it again and flapped it smooth and the door fits much better now, and it only needs a smear of blade putty to hide it (and some blue paint of course). I put the Wards on the front to remove the last of the hateful screw in stud extension/bolt things that held the meshies on (this is also a before of the door - you can see how the door looks like its not shut properly and the trim doesnt line up because of the mad camber i had to put in it so it didnt rub I also knocked out about half of Waiheke out of the upper corner of the fender - no wonder they rust up there! The base of the door is a much better fit to the opening now too. You can also see my new lower corner patch fits much better that the last repair... Better a bit more bog than warping the door skin. And of course what shows up but a package with some spigot rings for both the Wards right after putting the rims on I also got some rings for the Meshies and, some wobbly bolts 'for just in case I find some cool 4x100 rims'. (I know, I know Im a whore!) And of wheel bolt issues I also have a plan for fixing the wheel stud extension/shanked bolt combo issues for the Meshies once and for all!
  12. not as cool but potentially more practical? http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/parts-other-makes/other/auction-601798249.htm
  13. poked the rust some more. i should have left it alone achuly I should have fixed it properly the first time. One ramp slammage. Scraped out all the crud, replaced a bit lot of the inner arch and sloshed some rust converter up in there. I try to keep it off where you are going to weld as it makes the metal funny and outer skin made on the i beam with the hammer, formed and stuck on its done. Well mostly done. Took my time and it didnt warp but welding outside in the wind makes shitty welds !. Nice to have clean steel but its only backing for the bog really ill be slopping on the poop soon to bend it in with the rest, ive just slopped on some primer for now. You can see the rest of the arch is pretty wonky already so i only really wanted it to be solid and lower or flush than the skim of filler already on it. Ill hit the high spots in the reverse curve on top of the lip with the power file (love that thing!) I also rolled the guards a bit so hopefully a bit less rubbing on the wards, but its actually the side of the inner arch cutting in towards the boot quite sharply. I want to adjust the front door door fitment on both sides next, which might mean some grinding, so ill respray all my patches in one go.
  14. i think that is the accellerator pump and so you dont want to remove it (for normal driving anyway). is that a DGAV?
  15. ]so since getting back from Nats and that i havnt really done too much. It was kinda pissing me off that the sideys didnt work properly + oil spurting/low pressure and coolant fan issues, so it has been in disgrace. But I have been getting back into it Ive removed and swapped over a combined 'new' light assesmbly to fix the LF indicator (Copper 'spring to mildsteel male plug was not so good), im goint to have to do the other side now! Not to meany photo of that, but its heaps better, Cleand out the lenses too. So that is one job from the long list: Indicator fixed. also, swpped the diff back overto the original part (the diff in there is from the green dream and the housing had come slightly apart from the nose while I was away.lost all the oil and had started making a bad noise and shunting on overrun) 0-my own faulkt (probably) for ot tigtening up properly i suppose. Anyway (you will need to fogive me, i got a new camera so ive been taking photos all over the shop): Picked up the sapre and pulled apart - in need of a clean up on the outside: Inside looks nice, 41/10 = 4.1 ratio, same as the current/old diff, but stamping style is differerent (but the ratio is 125 standard - 124s had a few different ratios over the years, so scweet - apprears to have not been apart before either which is not the case with the 'old' one - crap is just cheap cloths and splatter from wire brushing the housing (woops!) mmm nice - gun bluing and precision engineering all the shafts and housing bits cleaned and ready for reassembly (i only cleaned and painted the diff nose, no idea about how to measure backlash and etc, looked nice and clan so fingers crossed!) Pigs head! Cannot be unseen! All the bits from the 'old' diff swapped over, Leaf springs all painted up, discs/spacers, and tinware swapped and diff ready for installation; So that is thediff fixed... hopefully. Also tightended the shit out of th ehandbrake adjustment so im corssing that off the list too handbrake fixed This is the 'old' diff - it looked like the 'new'one. like 2 months ago: I also fitted the Wards for a change, (also 1 peice wheel bolts...) looked real nice in the afternoon sun - they are going to rub, so i may need to remove the spacer on one side,but i like them: Next job, some rust coming through on the drivers wheel arch (i never did it properly the first time), and fill the wobbles that are apparrent in those photos, shave a bit off the front passenger door so it can fit properly, and adjust the left turning wheel lock. Drivers rear caliper is also leaking (!!!!) and engine is a sieve.
  16. sorry peeps who were picking up bits We wont be attending, someone forgot to disconnect the battery last time and its now dead flat. (that someone may or may not be the same person who was suposed to fix the electrics so it didnt flatten the battery anymore, but anyway... Its also hooooosing down out here, and the boss decided that BF was rain hail or shine, except for you know, this rain. Can bring bits to next meet or sort something else out if you are keen/desperate
  17. ah, i grabbed a spare steering wheel from the lock up figuring you could see if it fitted at your leisure.
  18. Shaneo, have you run out of new bits to put on, or has the mrs now fully claimed it? amily inform me that monthly BF mish is on, rail hail or shine.and ive got a boot full of crap to bring and dispose of/sell - steering wheel for euron8 - mirrors for triumphrod - swaybar for bigfoot or Ridal - bigfoot was in first will have to investigate this Cali thing maybe
  19. screw you guy put in an enquiry on this but it was sold already. it was for the best i shall live vicariously
  20. is it rich or lean when dropping cylinders?. are you sure its the front one & lean? might be fuel starvation from too low flow (fuel pressure or blockage in the banjo filter?) or floats if rich maybe dellorto drip? sure its not ignition related?
  21. dude, just put a twin circuit on, i bet the only difference will be the cylinder and reservoirs. I have some resovoiurs you can have, and cylinders are cheap. your car must be a super early model to have a single circuit? Im intrigued, just looking at my manual, (only one of the 3 i have has the single cicuit mentioned), looks like no vaccuum boost either, but the servo has all the holes to hook it up to just blanked off? Come steal some bits bei, cant be too safe
  22. hey sam, nice work. I had some black stuff a while back and it leaked/went soft, it was probably from the same roll at supercheap yours is of! lol. Stink about the leaks, make sure you get it off or your paint will go with. Also make sure that you get a tight fitting hose and use good hose clamps, as the seam from the mould on the plastic barbs likes to wick fluid out if its not a good fit. later on my nice colour matched blue cotton braided hose has probalby gotten all grubby as it soaks up the oil Thats why most hose is black. Before that it still had the original clear Cavis stuff that was working fine but it had gone hard and yellow so i took it off and binned it. You can still get it (from overseas) if you are keen on keeping the original look.
  23. stick a volumex in it bei! looks pretty tidy apart from the brake fluid marks. good time to tidy that fiat spagetti too
  24. awesome work man, i know it was a mission on my Fiat, but its mostly squares, roundy bits, sheesh! try an old sack with sand in it too good for bashing curves in, similar principle to shot bags but 0.1% the price. This photo here reminds me of my old one(s) - my first one was this colour, then i got a cream one (like MJ Foxs) and had those rims on it. Fuck yeah, student loan lump sum living costs! Would love another VW
  25. Since the last update I have been in touch with Murray @ Weber Specialties to drop the DHLA carbs off asap for him to have a look at. I was hoping to avoid being upsold a new set of Webers, but hes been good the couple of times ive used him, and other potentially? good places including a couple that were reccomended are not handy for me to get to. All the other places i emailed didnt respond either, so, whatevs. Anyway, In prep for doing this ive swapped back in my old twin throat Weber 34DMS. I have always had trouble with it before i put on the sideys, (flatspots, missing under load etc), so i gave it a quick clean up, and took all the jets out and putting it back to early base model ones back in from my wee collection. Then took it for a test drive, went very well, esp when the secondary open up! revs smooth and strong to 6000 before hitting a wall, but it sings along now from 3500 to 5500 especially, but still a bit of a halt when moving from cruise to full throttle but nothing im going to try to 'tune' out. Highlights how much the issues with getting the sideys right are holding the car back, the dells have the definite edge in the midrange, but splutter and bog the car ones the main circuit comes on because of the internal leaks i guess. The dells have much more tourque down low, but the single Weber revs better! Surely thats the wrong way around! Im really happy to finally have the car running something like it should, damn carbs! If the dellortos can be sorted to deliver what they are capable of ill be super happy. It may or may not loose traction very easily, but predicably if you drop it into second (and sometimes 3rd) on gravel, with Slayer turned up
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