WhangareiKE70

https://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=2346710495 Looking into buying these for my Datsun/Patrol project. Trying to get some more info about the materials used etc, have emailed the company asking for more info. Found this: http://roadsafe.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/RAP365A-RANPB.pdf @KKtrips @cletus Any ideas off the top of your head, if these are/can be legal, or have you seen these before? Any help appreciated.

Formply is what it's called. Primary purpose is for making concrete moulds, the smooth outer surface can have a release agent applied so the concrete doesn't stick. As you can imagine fairly hard wearing. $80 a sheet is a pretty good price. EDIT: I am assuming this as that's what it looks like, correct me if I am wrong.

Not even off page 1 and already time for an update! Whaka yeah! Bought a turbo manifold, seems pretty ok? Like is new, which is good but has obviously been sitting for a bit before being freshly powdercoated and sent to me, but will allow the attachment of the hairdryer for the turbo noises and that's what really matters. Is strong too so should be cool. Bolted manifold to engine, bolted turbo to manifold, clocked turbo. Bottom of both A-pillars looked like this. Then they looked like this... Cut the rust riiiiiight back. Most of this I am fairly certain was caused by poorly repaired rust at the top of the A-pillars, which allowed water behind the windscreen sea at the top, down the pillars, and then pooled in the wiper tray. Still needs a fettling and tidy up, but all 3 skins are in and replaced and strong af. didn't remember to get a photo of the passenger side but that's done too. Also in the above photo you can see the *ahem* clearancing needed for the turbo and manifold, this is fine as this area isn't occupied by wheel and tyre, as they stick way outside the factory guards. I will close this in with sheet steel shortly. Should be getting the pieces of steel I have had cut up for the body mounts today, been getting a really good deal on these through the engineer we use for work, he cuts them out of steel he has and just charges me the rate they pay for steel, no cost for cutting or anything. The labour may or may not get charged to whatever job we have going on at work at the time, but i wouldn't be surprised haha. A lot easier and more accurate than doing it myself, I don't have a bandsaw so I have to cut everything with an angle grinder, which isn't the best for parts I want to match perfectly side to side. Also bought my clutch, so will bolt the engine to the gearbox, and that will be that (here's hoping). Also bought a flange for the turbo to start the downpipe, and a heater matrix to try and start looking at where that will fit and how it will all work. Plans for the next week: - Get flywheel surfaced, bolt up clutch. If I get the body mounts tacked up, take off body, remove gearbox, mate together. - Tack in remaining body mounts. - Finish engine cover frame. If I have any extra time, start to close in with panel steel. Have teed up a guy at work to do the final welding for the body mounts for some liquid refreshments. He is a good/ticketed welder so will be good to have confidence that the body won't fall off while I drive it down the road. Let me know what I am doing wrong/I am a fool for thinking I can get this frankenstein done for Nats 2020. On a serious note, anyone who can help/has suggestions to do with tuning/ecus/wiring, please hit me up. I am no expert on most things, but wiring is something I worry may be a serious stumbling block, and I don't know if I will have the money available in time to just pay someone else to do it.

Generic pic from internet but the 1KZ in my old Hiace (RIP) had the oil filter running at about 45 degrees off vertical like this, that lip below was a part of the casting, but I'm sure it wouldn't be too hard to fab something up out of sheet steel to replicate. It caught the remainder of the oil from the filter and had a hosed attached that ran down to under the van. Was cool.

10/10, thanks for the response. I will have a look on the Cardwells website tomorrow at work because bigger screens.

@cletus any comment on this? I am going to send a list of stuff off to my certifier tomorrow but if you knew off the top of your head then that might save me a few dollarydoos. Also, looking for the section of the CCM where it talks about the allowable amount of clearance on a bolt hole. I thought it would be Section 18: Attachment Systems but can't seem to see it. Essentially I have M10 fasteners holding the plate for the new engine mounting bracket to the engine, how big can the holes in that plate be for them to go through? The Nissan ones seem to be about 11-11.5mm, should I use that as a guide or is there an actual thing/chart to go by? TIA

Only a page 4 thread dredge, definitely not the worst I have ever done... So I did some more work, and spent some more/a lot more money. Bought this: RB25DET Neo, rebuilt as far as sealing the engine, i.e sump and oil pump not properly in, just keeping things covered. Forgot to get a photo of where it is now but is more complete, has throttle body, water lines, alternator, power steering pump. Have purchased a new timing kit (belt, idlers etc), needs a new oil pump as the gears on the one that came with it are showing signs of wear. Thanks to some helpful advice I have decided to stick with a standard pump with new Reimax gears, so that should be sufficient as this won't spend too much time on limiter like it would in a drift car etc. Have new coils (in pic) but am considering a wasted spark setup, as these have a rep for overheating the rearmost coil, and this will be tucked in behind the firewall, so could potentially be worse. Got the right brackets for the mounts finally sorted, from an RD28 powered Patrol. Other than that, It needs a new clutch (considering just an Exedy HD rather than a button or puk clutch due to driveability), need a new harmonic balancer/crank pulley (didn't come with one even though it was meant to, but such is life). I have a turbo manifold on the way this week and the Masterpower turbo can be seen chilling up on the toolbox in the back. Should be good for roughly 350-400hp if I do it all correctly, I will, at least initially, be happy with anything over 300hp atw. So while the engine is waiting on me to throw money at it (mostly the clutch so I can properly bolt it up, oil pump can be done in place), I continued removing firewall now I knew exactly how far the intake would come out from the engine. Marked it up with dazzle, then cut it out, didn't get photos of the fresh cut, but it made the floor fairly weak haha, there isn't a whole lot of original firewall left at this stage. So i put 20x3 flat bar around the perimeter, and plug/stitch welded it in for strength. Strengthened it up heaps. Original mounting plate for the steering column stuck out into the intake area, so cut that. That whole area still needs work so that the cover for the back of the engine (that I will make shortly) can be removed without having to unbolt the steering column, and so they both have enough space and fasteners to make a proper seal. Made some plates and closed in some holes that will no longer be needed for the clutch master, brake master, choke, etc. Needs tidying up, but I ran out of time on Sunday so it got some primer to keep it covered in the meantime. Pedal box will likely be a Wilwood floor mounted pedal box. Put the dash in chocked up with a bit of wood to see what clearance I had vertically and behind the dash for a heater box of some description, the stock one will most definitely never fit again. Likely use something like this: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32968868437.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.c0973c005VMSGm&mp=1 It's compact and will do for windscreen defrost and pushing air through the vents, will just have all working at the same time to eliminate the need for any sort of directional matrix, and run the standard valve to determine the temp. I am trying to decide whether to try and make a scoop to direct air from the intake up under the dash or just blank it off and have it only recirculate internal air. Got a bit of time in the shed yesterday arvo and decided to try the intercooler that came with the new engine. Just tied on to the rad support at the moment. Cut a whole lot more plastic out of the grill and it sort of fits, good enough anyway. It is about twice the overall volume of the original so should be a bit better. Have made a good start on the body mounts, it is sitting on two of them at the moment plus propped at the front, but need to sort the rest. Will get them all tacked in, then get them checked by the local certifier, and get someone with more expertise than myself to buzz them in. However, forgot to get any photos of these. Damn. If anyone can help with advice or knows of someone with any of the parts listed above, then hit me up. Chur, Hayden.

https://cardwells.co.nz/wilwood-floor-mount-pedal-assembly.html This one here? This is accelerator/brake/clutch, but is essentially what I am after. Is this up to standard? I see that it is 1 digit different to the Wilwood 340-12410 mentioned in the section where it says it doesn’t require additional return springs? (Ends with a 1 instead of a zero). Otherwise I can get this from Straya via TM: https://www.trademe.co.nz/trade-me-motors/car-parts-accessories/parts-other-makes/brakes/auction-2331961258.htm which is the one mentioned above. Seems to be the only difference is the inclusion of the throttle link?

Chur, looks like the Wilwood/Tilton ones will be the go then, can potentially reuse the accelerator but definitely will need a brake/clutch setup. Will have a look at prices, cry, then suck it up. @cletus I owe you a beer.

Cheers for that. Will add it to the list of questions for the Certifier I’m using but thought it might help to ask here first. Next question is regarding floor mount pedal boxes, looking to run this one: https://www.trademe.co.nz/trade-me-motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/other/auction-2330115255.htm will this require NDT/is it all good/no go at all? I will require some alternative setup due to the engine now taking the place the clutch pedal originally mounted, and this seems well built and decently priced (checked it out in person while in Taupo last weekend).

Have seen a few threads and the common consensus seems to be about a 2-300rpm roll on ignition cut for the rev limit at around 7k? Pump is apart already, will give it a measure up tonight. When you say a tapping point on the inlet side above the oil level, do you mean the one that has the nipple on it next to the standard breather? Trying to find out what that one is for and not having any luck. It seems to plumb into the intake on the standard intake from what I can see in pictures, but I don't have a standard intake to compare (using a Freddy plenum). Engine seems to be from a Stagea judging from the sump (alloy and has the holes on each side welded up). If you are referring to the oil drain on the exhaust side at the front, it doesn't have that one. The flange is there but no hole is tapped.

He got back to me just now. "Hi, Unfortunately there is no set answer. Any RB oil pump will supply enough FLOW for what you want to do. They are replaced/upgraded for strength. Strength is required to cope with limiter bashing, high rpm etc. I have used stock used oil pumps on several builds of 600-700hp without issue but I stay off the limiter etc. If you can afford to, go Nitto. If you can’t, get a good condition used, or new genuine Nissan oil pump (be careful of N1 Chinese knock offs) and stay off the limiter. Good luck , Rob." So I will just get a new N1 Pump, and set a rev limiter using the ECU. Just need to find an answer on the crank collar, will try do some more research myself if I can find the time today. Cheers for the advice from everyone so far.

Seat brackets/rails for cert, I understand they have to be a well known/good brand (can't remember the terminology atm), does Planted fit that bill? As in: https://www.plantedtechnology.com/products/seat-brackets/datsun/planted-seat-bracket-nissan-datsun-720-pickup-1980-1986-driver-left.html https://www.plantedtechnology.com/products/seat-brackets/datsun/planted-seat-bracket-nissan-datsun-720-pickup-1980-1986-passenger-right.html I'm fairly sure the seatbelt stalks are attached to the floor (not at home at the moment/been ages since I pulled it all apart) so they will look different to the stock photo on there. The seats are Recaro and I will probably use some universal sliders as well (I should have the height). TIA

Nitto is the goods, but are $1850 NZD. Which is half the price I paid for the whole engine with turbo etc. If need be, I could get one, but it's going to slow things up a lot and potentially be overkill considering the rest is just standard 25det. That thread is pretty much what I was talking about when I said that I couldn't find a concise answer, as there are many opinions of people with little/no technical knowledge and/or little/no personal experience. Just lots of "ma bro had a standard one and redlined it all day and it didn't even blow up #RFB4lyfe", which made it hard to find the actual info hidden amongst it. I am pretty sure I will go with an N1 pump, and set a rev limit on it. Now I just need to find some info on this crank collar, i.e where to source and how to install/alternatively how much to get it installed. I would be interested to hear from @DJZ.

Have sent off an email, will see if he replies. Cheers mate

Yeah, that's the one, the N1 is a Nissan factory upgrade. Also, not sure, but do I need some sort of extended collar on the crank to engage properly with the pump gears? Also found mixed reports of that online. And, if so, does the crank need to be removed to have that attached? Honestly, the idea of buying a professionally rebuilt engine was to avoid stuff too far outside my knowledge base when it comes to engine building, as I want it to get it running, then potentially build a spare engine to swap in for more power/reliability/a chance to learn with less risk factor.

@rb drifter Linden, not sure if you are still on here, but you've built a few RBs in your time, any tips?

Hi all, I know this isn't the normal sort of engine on this forum, but I'm putting one in my OS project so here we are. I can not for the life of me, after a lot of internet searching, find a concise/factual answer to what is the go-to oil pump for an RB25DET in my sort of application. From what I can find, there are 3 options: 1) Standard oil pump. 2) N1 oil pump. 3) Tomei/Nitto/HKS/other good but expensive aftermarket oil pump. Some quick facts for those unaware of what I am going for: -Aim is somewhere in the 350-400hp range. -This engine is going in a 4wd, so won't be exposed to the type of lateral forces a drift car would be, but will occasionally have to rev to clear mud from tyres/will be on an angle sometimes. However, primary duties are weekend warrior and/or driving to work. - I plan to run a modified winged sump for extra oil capacity. - The long block has been fully rebuilt, using new fasteners but seems to be standard parts as per below: I am unsure if oil restrictors were put in the block when assembled (I would assume not). -I plan to run a head drain to stop extensive oil buildup in the head, which seems to be a common issue on these. I am unsure of whether or not I need an uprated oil pump, if the N1 pump is actually better, or whatever. All I do know is I do need a new one because may as well while rebuilding, and the old one has wear. Let me know if you have personal experience/technical knowledge. I will be going to hit up my engine builder today, and see if they have any experience with these. TIA, Hayden,

Still here, no OS cars currently. But keen for food or whatever. Can maybe convince my mate to bring his Hillman if it will play ball.

@ThePog cheers for that. Are you planning to use anything special to form the gasket around the edge?

Odd question, but what size round did you use here? And did you have a bender you used to shape it or did you just do it by hand? Needing to do a similar thing for my project.

@kpr, Have recently been thinking about how to do the fuel setup in my 4WD Datsun 720 with an RB25DET. The chassis is from a GQ/Y60 Patrol/Safari wagon so the tank is in the rear. Will likely be running an Aux tank as well in the further forward section, but that will just pump into the main tank. Seeing you used one of the Holley hydramats, you said you used it because you couldnt put a drop sump into the tank in the right area. Would you still recommend it if I could just do that? Essentially, I was thinking a drop sump, plus this: https://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=2294404954 In the standard tank, running 2x Bosch 044s. It may be overkill, as I am only aiming for 3-400hp initially (probably toward the lower side of that for reliabilities sake) initially. But I want to future-proof and allow for potentially using E85 in future which would require a lot more flow. Any thoughts around whether a hydramat is a better option than the drop sump or necessary/thoughts in general? TIA.

So many "Oh, HoW dOeS iT gEt OvEr SpEeD bUmPs?!?" comments on the Hoonigan Instagram post. As if bags don't exist/it would be that low if it wasn't bagged. Also a few "seen one, seen 'em all" comments, which if they are from 'Murica they may have seen a few, but I highly doubt they are done to the awesome standard this one is. Source: TL:DR: Love this truck. People say dumb stuff on the internet.

You can never 100% plan for idiots unfortunately. Back should be good, I am going to be easing back into the gym this month, at the recommendation of my physio, so gives an idea of how far it's come already. I have a little Suzuki Vitara offroader, a Lexus LS430 UL daily, and the tiny house, so the plan is to do a "Hayden's other projects" thread where I exhibit how fuckin' good I am at spending all of my time and money on stuff and things (this doesn't include my Suzuki GSF250, the trailer project I bought and haven't done anything with yet or the other 1,000,000 things on my to-do list).

Cheers mate. Yeah, the only saving grace was that it was a 4wd van, so when we hit we essentially went over the bonnet of his little Corolla and then rolled. In a normal height Hiace, where he hit first (straight into the drivers A-pillar with about half a cars overlap, I was already well off the road trying to avoid him) would have been my legs gone. As it was I have a couple of gnarly scars on the shin of my right leg, but no damage to them other than that. Damage to the van was intense, front RH suspension was ripped out, wheel was in about 30pcs. On Mangakahia Rd, about 3kms from the Maungatapere turnoff (there is a little bridge just past Tattons Rd if you know the area). Only about 2 kms from home, we had driven from Pukekohe that day without incident, then get hit by this idiot just before getting home. On a fine day you can still see the marks on the road from where he locked up and skidded, and then where his engine leaked oil all over the road once he hit us. This is almost 5 months later now.