kicker

I forgot to update, I did change to the black and I like it very much. Now that I had nice tyres for the road the front suspension issues became more noticeable. Anything above 70kph would make the front bounce. The springs were too soft from factory and the oil was shit because I was a lazy fuck and reused the questionable stuff that was in there, it wasn't the right amount either. Stock spring rate is 0.36kgmm or something, so on advice from Racetech I bought some of their 0.42 springs. After putting them in with some fresh oil I took it for a zing up the motorway and it feels really good now. No vibration or diving to the centre of the earth when on the brakes, still soaks up the bumps nicely so that's a win. Next on the agenda is fuel consumption, it's a bit too thirsty for a little 200 and the tank is only 11 litres including reserve. I have leaned it out a touch down low and my range has gone up but I'm waiting on a full rebuild kit for the carb which I hope will get me even further. I'm at 80k's on my current tank, not far from hitting reserve though. I found a suitable accessory for the Nats trip should I need it.

Hooke on the outer and plunging type on the inner. IRS, semi trailing. I have to choose a position for the diff which might also be slightly forward of the hub centreline. Range of travel is quite small

Question, diff/axle angle at ride height, is this similar to driveshafts where are few degrees is preferred?

New wheel time! I have had my eye out for a while, trawling yahoo for something wide and 4x110, spotted these Mk2's for a decent price so pulled the trigger. 10x5 lol

What type of cap is it? Can't imagine swapping types would cause issues, have done it in a few amps of mine.

I had a good creep on Blizzos thread when considering buying mine, useful info and looked like a bit of fun so grabbed it. Anyone got any recommendations for roller and clutch weights also contra springs?

I got the engine and suspension mounts done today. After cutting most of the plate holder off I now need to trim a heap out of the sidepanels to clear the exhaust and airbox. A new throttle cable, battery and a carb clean and should be good to try and fire it up. Other nice to haves are a new front brake cable and some kind of side stand.

Dio mount turned up in the mail so I dug into this a wee bit. Nifty vs Dio mounts Narrowed the Dio mount and removed the locator arm thingy for repositioning. Test fit to work out angle for mount, it's a bit steep at the moment Looking better than before

The first few seconds of the vid got a hearty lol from me, A+

So, a story. Near the start of this thread I mentioned how I'd found a solution for getting drive to the wheels which encouraged me to carry on with the project. Well, I had been in contact with the company and all was looking good until I finally tried to order the unit and found out that due to a materials shortage they were no longer available and no eta on when they would be again. Bums. Anyway, I wanted to carry on so started down the path of having one custom made, this was looking good until I tried sourcing the gearset. I wanted a certain size, ratio and strength but couldn't get much help from local companies so I parked it for a bit. Then out of the blue I get an email from the first company saying they had a customer who was trying to sell their unit AND they were in Australia so maybe I could save some clams on shipping. So I fire off an email, the guy is a good sort, had a project but now wants to move the parts on. Things are looking promising, the diff is unused, price is two thirds of retail and I happen to be visiting his town over New Years. So a deal was done and I bought this back on the plane with me today. Other than the extra shaft it's all Mini internals so should have some options with ratios and an LSD if needed.

3d print some Pioneer TS-X-esq boxes for your 6x9's. Your scan and print for the other speakers is looking good!

I had a wof guy knock me back for a hard to read chassis number, I thought it was fine but his eyes must have had too much toe in or something. A clean and some black paint wiped into the stamping and we were all good.

With summer almost here I have been wanting another twist and go for Fruju runs to the dairy. I put some feelers out for a Dio or similar and ended up with this part finished project. Not quite a Dio but this part is, AF18E I'm gonna redo the install, the rear shock is currently bolted to the original mount and the bottom looks like this And the engine seems to fit with the Nifty mount but is further forward than I'd like as the exhaust touches the plastics So if anyone has an AF18 engine mount or an airbox/other filter options hit me up

I called the IRD once and asked them how far inland their revenue was, form 2 school holidays were wild.

So what is the real issue here?

Deifinitely chase up the supplier first. I had the same thing with my solar charged helmet, non replacable batteries stopped holding a charge after 8 years. I pryed it open and removed the batteries, which were soldered in, and added some leads going to a couple button cell holders then glued it all shut again.

So if you are weak in two areas of driving you'll need to fail two tests to find out? Do you get any money refunded for the time not used?

I haven't done much lately but worked up some motivation to sort this mess. I did a bit more to the template I had started earlier, cut some wood, cut some metal, bent some edges and ended up with something better looking. The curvy bits are the lugs for the ECU tray to bolt to. I tried to keep it as open as I could so as not to restrict airflow too much. There is still a bit more to add to it like some holes and captive nuts plus the oil cooler sub-bracket. Old and new I also fit the water pump controller and tidied all the wiring. There is not much space for extras but the wheel tub gives a nice clear view.

There was a company in the states that sold shafts for single rotors, atkins or something. No idea if they are still in business though.

Don't even need reverse itself for a wof

Nice find, looks pretty original. From memory if you want to start it without a key just disconnect the ignition switch

I'm pretty stoked with it tbh, it is a lot smoother and more stable in corners as you could imagine and I can flat foot at intersections now but on the flipside the speedo reads about 10kph high. I have a few more jobs to do like fit a chain guard, uprated Racetech fork springs, check the rear shock and overhaul the swingarm linkage and some new white (or maybe yellow) decals for the front and rear. The rest will stay a bit ratty as there is lots of worn paint and scratched plastics from its offroad life The only downside is that I can't get my stand under it as easy as before

Yeah, I'm leaning that way now, was unsure with the old wheels but now with the black rims it does look better.

Quick poll I have some black fork guards too, what are peoples opinions Stock or black (ignore dropnuts in the background there)

It was a busy day on the KDX yesterday, I started with this lot and ended up with this I went with a 140 rear which turned out to be a good decision