kicker

After getting the diff in place my exhaust no longer fit, was expected but didn't know how much by. Basically the whole 180 bend was in the way so I fixed the can in place and cut it off. I bought a donut and used some straight offcuts to wiggle around things I added a couple brackets and painted it black, I might even wrap it to help keep heat out of the bay. Another job that needs attention is the accelerator, obviously the car pedal needs to operate the bike engine throttles, both are cable operated so the first question was what is the range of motion needed for each. The thottlebodies are 25mm cable travel from closed to fully open, car pedal was 36mm cable travel from fully up to the stop. I'm still trying to avoid permanent modifications to the car so I chose to come up with a mechanism to fit between the pedal and throttlebodies that would account for that ratio. The easiest way I thought of was to make a wheel the cables could attach to with different circumferences to get that ratio. Then I had the idea that I could CAD it up out of 2mm sheet so it could be assembled and tweaked in future if necessary by swapping plates out. After heaps of measuring stuff I sent my drawings away and got this stuff back. A little deburring, bending and notch cutting and I was able to assemble it Apart from not having a return spring fitted it worked really well! Time will tell if needs adjustment to the design but it's at least way to make brum brum noises in the meantime.

I would bet a Z starter would be a straight swap. I bought all kinds of Z stuff for my old 260C and never had an issue.

I agree, vehicle trackers should not block a drivers vision... old car accessories though, yes please!

Pics are fine for me

That's a good effort scoring those, tidy one looks sweet/will be sweeter with slam and wheels

I did the bearings on my old 330 260C, they were easy to source, just a 6208 and the local SKF shop had them on the shelf. Collars are a bit trickier, got mine from Amayama who still have them in stock. I dropped the lot to a local 4x4 outfit to install as noone else had the gear to pull the old bearings off.

The metal versions turned out good, the diff is now hanging in the frame, a little bit more work to get the mounts finished but it's cool to see it in there. The chain run turned out spot on, TBH it was mostly luck, I just made it as long as I could and the tensioner would sort any extra slack. I've got a Scott oiler to help with chain life so we'll see how we go.

Someone has to ride a moped or you have to change the title, it's in the spirit of it.

More progress I got the final drive cleaned out and sealed up once the gasket set arrived so the engine side of things should be good now. On the frame side I needed to sort out a stand as it didn't have one, decided to go for a side stand, not the most convenient with a CVT but looks cooler. I ordered the shortest I could find then shortened it another 20mm, a bit of scrap steel, some head scratching and it's on. After that I fit the terrible fitting plastics with zip ties, some mirrors and the plate which I picked up a week after I bought it and we are good to go. Test ride was successful, the oil pump bled right up to the carb so I dumped the premix and put straight gas in, the brakes work, the lights work (other than one blown indicator bulb), it seems to go pretty fast. I need to take it on a longer run and see what breaks/rubs/falls off. If anyone has a black seat I'd be interested, someone has recovered this one with polar fleece or something

Ok so the pump is all good now, has nice clean oil coming out. I also trimmed the throttle cable as it was a bit long and set the pump adjustment. I'm starting to think the Dio had been out in the rain/underwater/lived somewhere very damp prior to being dismantled and stuck in the Nifty so I thought I should check the final drive oil. Heh

It took a while to get this heap running. The carb was the most poo'd up I'd ever seen, I had to drill out one of the brass bungs and run a drill bit down the fuel inlet gallery to clear it. With the carb sorted I checked the wiring diagrams next and everything matched up nicely between the models so that was easy. Now it had spark and fuel but it still wouldn't start so I left it for a while to do other things then last week I decided to check the crank seals, pressure test showed they were good so I pulled the engine and whipped the cylinder off. Lol Replacement cylinder and piston. Big end felt good so I wanged the new bits in with a new small end bearing. Neat. I had it running on premix till the oil pump could bleed up but the oil coming up the line looked a bit milkshakey so took the pump off for a look. Lol That might be why it siezed, anyway the pump has been disassembled and cleaned up ready to try again. I checked the Nifty oil tank and there is no sign of water so it must have been from the Dio before it was disassembled. Lastly, while I had stuff apart I chucked in some 7g rollers I had in stock to replace the 9g that were in there. Good times.

Multi spark units are the biz, cold starts in the dead of winter and it would be idling on all cylinders with no choke before you disengage the starter. I did go through a couple of those Streetfire units before it was recommended to me to put a diode on the trigger wire. I still have one of the dead units @h4nd if you wanted to have a go at fixing it.

Evolution of templates for the main plates holding the diff and also picking up on the lower rear engine mount. A couple cardboard stages then cad and cardboard then cad and mdf. Looking pretty good so far, I'll hold off on the laser cutting for a little bit in case I have forgotten something. I'll keep them solid for now as I need to fit a chain tensioner somewhere, after that they might get the holesaw treatment. More little brackets needed to finish it off but I'm happy so far.

I see quite a few cargo bikes daily now, most look as below. Good idea for a project though as most retail options seem to run close to 10k

Things are ticking along slowly, just little bits here and there when I'm not farting around with other stuff. Recent focus has been on getting the diff fitted. First up was seeing if I had enough room within the subframe I made a year or so back. Thankfully all was good with no rework needed so time to yank it all out to make working on it easier. The bits of scrap tacked on with a bit of tube at the end shows the axle line at ride height with the engine in. Now I can play around with it a bit easier. Heres my jig to hold the sprockets in line.

Gotcha, didn't see the rest of your post sorry. My plug looked as below which I think is the same as what you are thinking of doing.

I did the same conversion on my 260C, I'll see if I can dig up the details but from memory for me it was as simple as connecting two pins on the plug directly and connecting another two with a diode.

Just on the diff stuff, I don't know how easy they are to get now but I got an LSD H190 from yahoo Japan a number of years back, was out of a QK30 Nissan Crew and it looks to have the thicker flange, 3.7 from memory. This is a pic of the one I had

Crownwheel is around 160mm in diameter

Cappuccino diff, can get Cusco LSD's for them out of Japan too. I have one with axles I don't need and will be moving on at some point.

Haha, good spotting. I do need to work out actual range at some point, I've just been using the trip meter to compare tanks, first I recorded was 60ish

Love it. Makes me want to cast a hat out of jb weld so I could tip it to you.

Have used One Stop Cut Shop myself and it was very easy. Am also getting some stuff cut at Metcon locally, waterjet but they also do laser, haven't confirmed the job yet but they got back to me within a day with a price after I sent them the dxf's.

I use Motul 710 oil to help keep power valves clean but 510 would be good in your hog.

2t's are thirsty little buggers, worth it tho