Rookie

Ok sweet, that is what you were talking about. My point being that, as per your second link, 14.7 afr produces the most heat no matter what the load, so yes while it probably isn't as much specific heat as wot, it is still heating things up unneccessarily. So basically, more heat and more fuel consumption for no gain, I know this doesn't apply to every engine combo, but for most it will hold true.

I'm not sure I catch you Bangbug, come again?

My crossflow with a bcf2 liked 12.6 at wot and 15.5 at cruise, 36 degrees of timing at wot too. Where did you get your numbers from Roman, 14.7 is too rich and 13 is too lean imo. Not to mention that stoic is the hottest burn, so you are heating things up unnecessarily for no reason.

You have thought about this way too much Dave, nitrous is a very well known quantity and all of the products involved work well by all acounts. we have a couple of cars at work that spray 500-700 hp into carb fed motors with no problems.

You are on the money Dave, there really is great things to be done with nitrous. I'm looking forward to seeing you battle evenly with a car for a few laps and then blast past down the straight. Good jerb.

Have you looked on eBay for parts? I haven't struggled to find bits for my suzuki T350 which is similar vintage, and tbh I would rather trust I motor that I have built over something else, better the devil you know etc.

Yea, this is exactly what a rca is for.

I would just bin the factory proportioning valve, and get an adjustable one, then run a single rear line through the hydraulic hand brake and then t it afterwards. I don't see any need to keep it factory.

FYI Flauski, I have nothing but good things to say about China carbs, so there is at least one person out there who thinks they are OK. Fingers crossed for you Russ, hope this thing runs as good as it looks.

I have set up 3 of these motors using China pz19 carbs, the intake port is tiny so anything larger than that is a waste. My first intake manifold was just a bit of 8mm alloy with 4 holes in it and the port transitioning from 19mm round to the 10x10 square intake port, worked real good and I got 100 kph out of it on my velobike. For driveline I would just use a centrifugal clutch and be done, these motors spin to nearly 10k rpm with a China carb so you would probably get a reasonable speed out of it. Anyway keen to see how you get on.

And not to mention only having half throttle won't make it brake any better...

Not sure about the revs, but yes you can use your carbs as throttles, you will just need to adapt a tps

Yup I'll third nrv.

Ambient temp probably plays a part too, but I would say that pumping heaps of gas at "high" pressure would definitely heat soak it.

Thriller and I made his seat out of a bit of plywood and some florists foam (pretty sure it is called oasis), easily shaped by hand and epoxy doesn't turn it to mush. Then if you want light weight take a mould and make another one.

Same here, mine worked great and never had any issues with fuel heating, probably the 75 psi that's doing it.

Also it isn't a k series or an LS so is isn't OS certified...

Roman, as much as I like your mspaint graphs and general ramblings about fuel economy, can you please start directing your energy and time towards something useful, such as making more power, reducing laptimes, or increasing the efficiency of turning tyres into smoke etc? Lubs Rookiedave

You have a NC relay instead of a NO one? Wait, that doesn't explain why it worked without the ecu in the equation. Have you put the multi meter on the ecu wire to see what is actually happening?

When I used to drive trucks I could get my Kenny down under 400m/l, lots of turbo whistley noises occur when doing that hahaha.

Lol yet again you have proved that your opinion isn't even worth the bandwidth used to write it sr2... Wait, what? Are you saying Clint that if you move a steering rack you can't get a cert? What about all of the scratch built cars, and cars converted to steering rack?

Fan car makes oodles more down force than a modern f1 car, probably even one from the aero era, and has no parasitic drag from turning moving air into df. Basically they killed a super legit idea.

They usually convert to a steering box out of an earlier model e70. As for moving the rack, if you just move it sideways and don't lengthen it at all or move it up or down, then there will be no geometry change but you will have to deal with being able to turn tighter one way than the other. We do this all the time at work and other than the whole uneven steering lock thing then there is no problem, and 15mm is only about an 1/4 of a turn on the wheel so you probably won't even notice.

Go EFI, you will save yourself a bunch of heart ache and pain, the bonus is your car will make more power and use less fuel. +1 on LC2, but I would go spartan instead of slc pure plus if you are going EFI.

I would check your base timing, it is probably a bit out.