Rookie

Bingo.

Oh man, I don't even know where to begin telling you how wrong you are. Basically ignore this advice; you can't visually inspect a bearing unless it is munted, the only way to do it is with mic's. Alternitively, it is a low load tractor motor so just put them back in if it is running fine now, it will be running fine afterwards.

If it is wired up like that you are missing at least one wire, there should be a 12v wire to the positive terminal of the coil that bypasses the ballast resistor on cranking, and this should only get 12v when cranking. My bet is that you are only getting power on cranking, hence why it dies when in run. What you should do is get a volt meter and hook it up to the positive terminal, you should see 6-7v when the key is in position 2 and 12v when the key is in position 3. If this isn't the case you need to sort out the wiring.

Tom is on the money here, no need to replace bearings that are in spec.

I have heard the problem is wander rather than loss of sync, I guess it depends on application, but with a ragged edge tune and 3 degress or more would easily be enough to grenade a motor. anyway, you have both sides of the coin now, so take it as you will.

Downtrail, is that pulley you showed a balancer one too? If so how did you get on with crank signal at higher rpm? I know it is a therotical no no, but if you actually did it and it worked fine then sweet, or did you just not give a fuck, and she'll be right mate?

Grind a tooth off?

Is that pulley a balancer? If so you shouldn't mount the trigger wheel to the outer part of it.

Good work Pete, keep it up.

Can you change your thread title when you actually decide to make it faster, so I know when to check your thread again, because these updates are boring as fuck Roman Dayfe...

I know tomstament had trouble, pretty sure his solution was just to run ls leads, buy them from rock auto for like $0.03

Dieselmeken is THE diesel dude in the world, just send you pump to him and it will come back with like 300 hp of dieselness inside.

Wait, steeb has a 454 and decided to buy a RFB, what the fuck is going on? Also, +1 for other projects so this thread can die in peace...

Sounds like you need DieselMeken.

60 psi isn't a high fuel pressure Roman, so that won't have made any difference. I would say you just have shit in your tank, pull it and clean it properly if reliability is on your priority list, I have seen shit in a fuel tank cause all sorts of problems.

LOL, Do a LS swap...

They didn't do that last time i did one, they just give you a piece of paper that you have to say that you own it and its legit and then you have to get it sighted by a JP et al, easy peazey.

Bike revinning is easy as, just take it to any vtnz, costs like $100 and they give it a wof and make you pay rego when it passes.

Have you had the head flow tested with a velocity probe? What about if the air is going supersonic and becoming turblent?

Good to see this thing up on here Pete, great work so far!

I came in here to say that I had good dealings with cbc and that I would recommend them. Good to hear this is still the case!

As much as you like your carbs, if you supercharge it you should definitely go efi your life will just be better haha

You do a good job of making yourself look like a knobjockey Fred...

FYI Retep's escort has fixed back bucket seats on a fancy mount that tilts the whole seat forward, so it is definitely doable.

Just convert it to efi, cheap and gets rid of most of the worn out/ British junk. It'll cost you about $800 to do everything (probably cheaper if you adapt a efi throttle body and don't do itbs), it will also be the single greatest modification you can do to your old car.