Valiant

Thats an unusual size, I,ve never come across 7/16th fuel line. What car is it on? the photo looks like 1/4 and 3/8.

You'll need to get hold of one that does. What size is it? 6mm 8mm 0r 10mm?

Have you got a double flare kit? If you do just start to push the first part of the double flare into your tube as normal, push it in about 3 turns back off and see how it looks. It won't come out like those ones, they have been machined but it does work perfect.

Sell all 3 and buy Mopar.

Hi everyone, I had a day off and made it to my garage. So heres some photos. This was a big repair, I have had to cut the bottom off the front guard and repair behind. The jacking point was stuffed along with the inner and outer sill. This is the bottom front of the drivers door, repaired today. There is a hole in the back of this door too but I think it can stay for effect I welded up some cracking around the drivers door latch too. I think that the door latch has been faulty at some time and the door slammed shut alot. OK so like I said before I have been working on a shortening a Falcon diff for this too. The plan is to make it slightly shorter than standard anglia, this way I hope to fit a neutral spaced 7inch rim on the back in the standard wheel arches So heres the jig i made up to hold the housing while I shorten it. Heres the whole thing cut down (about 220mm per side) and jiged up And a closer picture with the bar holding it all. I'll put some more photos up when I do some more. criticize it here viewtopic.php?f=18&t=25081

Decent Chris, How many fights you guys had over the keys?

Small world thats my car with me leaning on it.

Cool When you came to the South Island after MIN did you come on the reclaim the city run around Christchurch. Do they still have the hill climb in the Auckland Domain? There used to be a burgandy Avenga there that was wicked fast. The owner said some thing about tiger and 2000ccs and Brazil when I asked about it.

Yeah this is nice, I have always liked these. Does it have the L shaped tail lights? These were pretty revvy to begin with weren't they?

Thanks guys. Yes Its a tight fit in there but it works. Yes skids are no problems, its a bit stink with an open diff though. I want to get an LSD and a 3.23 or 3.5 to ond crownwheel and pinion but its an expensive job.

Sadly I think it has broken rings. The PCV valve can't deal with it because there is more getting into the crank case than the PCV valve can get out. I doubt very much that it is caused by rings not bedded in as that leads to oil use not massive blow by. Try a catch can, If it persists it will probably have to come out. No panic though head and sump off and see what gives.

OK so love it or hate it here it is. The whole thing went a bit more OCD than I first intended... What it is. 1964 Valiant AP5. I draged it out of a garage about 2002 it was push button auto, brush painted and had a seized 225. Now. 383 b series big block. comp xe268 cam 906 heads Performer rpm intake 780 holley etc 727 Torqueflight 9inch ford diff with 3.0/1 open diff. Some other stuff too. I need to do a few things before its fully finished Mainly a better rear ratio with a spool/LSD It gets a bit warm in traffic Bit of panel work needs sorting. I'm sick of spending money on it at the moment so it will have to wait. Discuss here //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/28698-valiants-big-block-ap5/

Build Thread - //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/28699-valiants-big-block-ap5

Hi Chris Good to hear from you. Yeah call in one day I don't go far away at the moment. Yeah I think is. There are a few different models of Borgwarner diff, I had a play with my Val diff too. As far as I can tell valiant and falcon used BW 74 series up to about XE vintage. Then XE/ similar year comodore use 75 series up to about 92?ish when they went to 78 series. 74 and 75 series parts interchange I use a VL crownwheel and pinion on a Val lsd carrier I had to alter the carrier slightly to make it work and the pinion depth is adjusted differently between the two. Both have 25 spline axles but are a different design for 74 and 75. Both axles are a bit spindley and look like they can't be resplined easily unless the new length was very short. I am pretty sure this is a 78 series with 4 spider LSD (my 74/5 is 2 spider) The axles are very big and 28 spline. They have next to no waist so should be easy to respline. This is just what I have found from shagging about with them? Hows progress going with the Chevette? you moving into a flat chap?

Yes the paint is staying as it is, I wanted to widen the orignal wheels but they wont clear the disc struts or rear calipers. I am thinking some widened steels with chrome caps off a Cortina, maybe some deep hotwires? probably some steel rims though Yeah I like the stripe too, its all faded and old. No I am pretty set on an MX5 1.6 and box with a DIY turbo I got given off a WL Bounty. I had a Pinto escort years ago, side draughts, hot cam W50 etc. It was good but they are a big heavy motor and prices have gone up something wicked lately. Yeah Al you're onto it. The wheels need to be wide though I reckon. The diff will be shorter than standard so hopefuly I can fit some 7" rims on the back.

Yes, Yes I am. The escort struts look about 50mm shorter to start with. It will be a put it together and lower the end that is to high job.

So ah yeah, this got given to me a few years ago. Before that it was parked up in a garage since 2000 when it was WOF failed for rust etc. Before that it was some ones daily. The plan is to keep it looking nasty, the only body work I plan on doing is cutting out the rust, under sealing the repairs underneath and letting the rest rust off again. I have a mk2 escort front end including steering rack and struts that I have converted to coil over. I'm in the process of shortening an AU xr6 3.45/1 diff in between fixing rust. I will do the motor swap last, I want the rest sorted out first. OK Photos. You're not staying. New rear chassis rails criticize it here viewtopic.php?f=18&t=25081

Say it here

A roll pin remover works mean. It's hard to explain how one looks but I,ll try. A solid steel bar about 15mm by 15mm by 300mm with a notch in the end. Put a small long cap screw through the roll pin, make sure the head of the cap screw is larger than the id of the roll pin but smaller than the id of the hinge. Put a nut on the the cap screw and sit it into the notch in the bar. Hammer the bar so it draws the roll pin out.

Engines run hotter the more you retard them Yeah, good point, if it was running to hot. It runs cold though. You can't keep your pot of water at the same temp for long enough to know the point it opens. They always open just as the water boils. Its a good test if the engine is overheating to see if it opens at all. It sounds like a thermostat problem, Is the thermostat not sitting squarely in the housing, is it the wrong one?

Don't be tight. Buy a thermostat. All boiling it proves is that it opens, not at what temp. Do this before you touch anything else.

I had a MK1 escort cable and no problems. Failing that get one made up as long as you want.

Turn the engine over until it is rocking on 4. The no4 exhaust valve is just closing and the no4 inlet is just opening. When you find it rock the crank back and forth you will see the middle of the two valves movement. That will be very close to TDC. Look for the mark. My guess would be that it lines up with the top of the head surface.

Could be mistaken, but that has 3 levels there. 140a @ 10% duty cycle, 75a @ 35% d/c and 57a @ 60% d/c It'll be fine for panel steel, but it'll struggle if youwant to weld lots of thick steel. Thats the duty cycle ie the percent of continious use it can take before it thermal overloads and stops working untill it cools down. It will be an ok machine for light work and panel jobs. The inner cable is like the outer of an acelerator cable that carries the wire from the roll to the tip. Its cheap and easy to replace. I've had a MIG for ages. Heres my 2 cents about what to look for. Do use Argo shield, it costs more but it works much better. I find Co2 makes the weld to cold and spattery. Look for a welder with a solenoid valve for the shield gas. Smaller ones have a manual valve and aren't as nice to use. I prefer .8mm wire, it doesn't bunch in the feed roller as easily and it makes a nice neet weld. Look for a machine that is 160 to 220 amp single phase. You can get larger single phase machines but they are pretty industrial. I have a 170 a and it does everything I want it to. It would be nice to have a bit more HP though.