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Valiant

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Everything posted by Valiant

  1. @brocky41, this is up your alley isn't it mate?
  2. Shagged around with the yellow one over the weekend. Instead of redrilling the hubs and swapping wheels I thought I'd give swapping tyres to rims a try. Used my improvised bead breaker, worked well, tyres swapped easily, no tube required. Looks pretty sweet, chassis is pretty close to level. The drad link just catches the tyre on hard left lock. Maybe I'll put a little bend in the drag link, maybe I won't. Then made a start on fitting the new motor. Used my SnapOn harmonic balancer puller to get the multi belt pulley off the blue Pony. It put up quite a fight but the Snap-on puller is still undefeated. Dumbly my motor has a 25mm crank with a 7mm key, the pulley is 1" with 1/4 key way. I'll get the pulley re keyed and use shim steel/locktight to solve the diameter issues. Anyway, enough worked to to mock the motor up with a basic jig. Looks pretty good, it has to sit alot further back in the chassis than the original because the Chonda isn't a vertical engine. I'll have to make a new exhaust up to clear the bonnet, and trim the side cover a little bit.
  3. On with the pesting. The blue one is a very early production one apparently. This is evidenced by the bushed front wheels and chain steering. Anyway one of the front stub axles is completely wrecked. It's been run dry with a stuffed bush for so long that it almost ate the end off the stub axle. I needed the most basic solution to make it work again. That solution turned out to be turning up a replacement stub, making a crude jig based on the old stub, cut and weld. Sweet. on with the motor swap!
  4. Thank you Cletus. It does have a 4 speed gearbox which is driven by V Belt belt from the motor, the clutch adds tension to the belt to engage drive. The diff is belt driven off the transmission it also has a "clutch" that is engaged when the brake is pressed. Also the brake is a band style that holds a drum external to the final drive.
  5. So far I have brought a pair of new front tyres that are a bit taller/wider than the original, I think I will redrill the front hubs and fit the ride on wheels and tyres. Failing that I'll see if I can put the larger tyres on the original wheels. Lastly I need something to make this go. That's where the cheapest 15hp Chonda I could find on Trade Me comes into play. Hopefully I'll be able to make it all work, it's a long way from clearing the bonnet at the moment, I think a home made power pony spec exhaust and an air cleaner rework should solve the clearance issues. I'm tempted to paint the engine tinware brown to match the 70s styling. Time will tell.
  6. My yellow one is the cooler of the two (in my opinion) it's tidier, more original, but mechanically less complete. It came with the remains of a 12hp Tecmseh ohv engine, the original I suspect. The front tyres are stuffed, a few covers and guards are missing but it's pretty much all there. I think this one is Is a slightly later production it has quadrant steering, non cut out grille and front hubs/wheel bearings.
  7. A friend of mine has had these lurking in the back of his shed for years, the shed got demolished recently and both of them were sitting in the yard. We made a deal, if I get the blue one going for him to use I can keep the yellow and brown one. Seemed like a sweet deal so they have both arrived at my place. They blue one I think is an early production Power Pony, it has chain steering and bushed front wheels. Someone has fitted a 10hp Briggs and Stratton to it. We have a 11hp Honda to fit replace the B&S. It needs some new bushes in the front wheels, a good tidy up and we should be good to go.
  8. @MightyJoe Years ago I cut the filler door off a jap car and added that door to my escorts rear quarter. I added the jap filler neck and cap as well. It solved a number of problems all at once.
  9. Garry at P.A.D racing was very helpful when I dealt with him. He is very knowledgeable about link lining in my experience.
  10. @JustHarry I usually go with rectangular box section 3mm plus wall thickness. I would avoid the riser you have to hold the hitch. I preferred a piece of 75x10 drilled and tapped with m10 threads and bolted with capped screws. I also avoid welding across the top of the drawbar to the front of the trailer deck as I have been told it leads to cracking. *how I have done them in the past.*
  11. That will be the issue I'd say.
  12. is it possible you're trying to fit a 20mm plug to a 3/4inch hole. I know its Japanese but they do use odd sizes some times.
  13. My recipe for successful frost plugs. Get the hole really clean with Emery tape. Put blue lock tight around the outside of the plug. Find a socket that is a loose fit inside the cup of the plug. Tap it in. Hammer on its side if required, add socket extensions if required. Got a picture of where you are trying to work?
  14. Ten points for sneaky morris minor post. Minus twenty for the state of the welding on that left brace mount.
  15. Ah yes I do. The paint is so fucked it has no contrast making dents invisible.
  16. Who could be bothered with all that? ^ This is how you Y10. No straight panels. Dedicated LPG. GA16 blew up. Replaced with GA13. Noisy timing chain. 420,000 KM. 70 Series tires cuz they could less than 65. Paint falling off. Piece of wood for morning fast idle. *goez hard 4 wat it iz*
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