gibbon

Bought a hoist, I'll do it myself (if I ever get around to installing it)

I'd do it in a heartbeat

Poor old triumph failed it's wof for underbody rust, I had a quick look and didn't see anything too terminal except around some seams. Is there any gc in northland who does the whole underbody sandblast/treat/epoxy shebang?

right, if im not going to oakura tomorrow I'll drop in

did it go ahead in the end? or all snotted by the weather

Then perhaps a guy I know might bring his gt6

if we say that hypothetically the warrant status of vehicles at this show isn't a matter of keen scrutiny, just saying, I mean as a moot point of argument for the sole purpose of fostering robust debate

who what when why?

So what happens when it's running and you add 12v momentarily to the field?

I think the wrong field coil would have an affect, something something less lines of flux being cut etc I assume there's some kind of external regulator? Normally there's a few adjustments to be made there

this one is only a couple of months old. And I'd never bring the boy he is the devil incarnate

I shan't be bringing mine if she's behaving like she is now, phwoar

damn, I was just thinking I hadn't seen any fellow northlanders post in a while I will have to clear with the wife... no promises lol

The high resistance through the armature would drop the output for sure. If it's 20x what the book says I'd start there

Watching one of the many custom car shows, guy makes some subwoofer boxes, covers them in polar fleece, puts resin on the polar fleece then sands it all back to shape... that's a new one to me?

When it comes to gillies, the Rule of Cool prevails IMHO

sorry mate never got back to you - i meant to take a video but life took over. these are the fault codes for a regular SOHC 4g63 starion. the 4g54 conquest uses the same codes so i assume they were standard for mitsis at the time. however the code i pull is totally different I'm using an analog meter as the regular digital multimeter can't react fast enough. I get a code that looks like this (repeating): i don't know what to make of the big sweep at the start. is it a "begin sequence" indicator? the manuals don't mention anything about it. given that the car runs, i doubt there's a problem with the "ignition pulse" which would suggest that it's code #1, O2 sensor (which I have swapped out with an AEM unit, the gauge is configured to duplicate the factory sender output but perhaps there's something in there that the ECU doesn't like). the second part there's a slight gap between the two so again a bit hard to tell if it's a code 5 or a code 2 and 3. measured individually none of these components appear to have anything wrong with them. i've since changed AFM to the double barreled type ,there's every chance that it's all sorted now but ive had some problems with the fuel rail which i've made worse every time i've touched them so the car currently isn't running,. oh but the brakes have seized on again in the meantime.....

Hey mate, yes I think it's a 4 pin plug, haven't been to the car recently but it rings a bell

My wiring diagram shows an inlet air temp sensor in the AFM and both the styles of airflow meter that I have seem to have it However I ALSO have some kind of sensor in the pipe before the throttle body but no idea if it's temp or pressure, the diagram makes no mention of it There is a wiring diagram that makes mention of two inlet air temp sensors, I'll have to dig it out though. It's not the one that's applicable to my engine. Below is inlet pipe sensor

I guess so? there's a vacuum line to the throttle body

Speeduino would be great because I could finally ditch the godawful airflow meter, but then there'd be the temptation to go MPI off the back of that, and that means off the road again for a decade

The twin tube one is E5T00272, the single ones are 171. If it's supposed to be the twin tube one then there's an obvious problem right there, so thanks for that... I'll swap it out the moment I find motivation

OK some new developments; i pulled the coolant temp sensor and checked it, it seems to be functioning, 2k ohm at ambient down to about 700 at boiling temp. I tested the internal resistance of the inlet temp sensor and there's something there at least, no idea what the nominal figure is. i have three airflow meters and they all gave the same result. i also blew back through the fuel return line, there was a bit of resistance there but i could hear it bubbling back in the tank so don't think it's a problem however i did notice something - the meters seem to have some kind of calibrated bypass tube? and some have a single, and some have a double. the one that was previously installed was the single unit. i have no idea if it's the correct one. but if the ECU is anticipating a load of additional unmetered air from a second tube that isn't there... that could well be why its running rich as buggery

That's what I meant sorry. So there's nothing sensitive in the line back to the tank?

OK the good news is that i seemed to have fixed the major problem - i pulled the secondary injector, it was all clean, reinstalled it, pressurized the rail and put some power to the injector and it sprayed like a champ. put a test light across the wires at the back side of the final plug and suddenly it's lighting up and the car is revving out.. so i'd say either a shitty connection somewhere which i've made right with vigorous plugging/unplugging, or maybe the injector was seized up and i've freed it up when i tap-tap-taparoo'd it into place because it didnt quite want to go in she's still running rich as shit at idle, @bigfoot i checked the return line from the regulator, it was full of fuel so it's at least the valve itself is opening. i agree the rail pressure does seem high though, the return might be full of fuel but maybe it's fuel that isn't going anywhere thanks to a blockage further down... is it safe to disconnect the line and just blow it back with compressed air? when i pressurised the rail i could see that there were no leaks from the injectors or their little housing doodad @kws i wouldn't have a clue what it's nominal figures are supposed to be for the temp sensor... i guess i could pull it and bench test it with a heat gun to see if it at least changes values.. i've never found a service manual for this particular engine and don't really want to take figures from the closest other manual as there does seem to be quite a few differences. what air fuel ratios would you expect from an auto choke function? is there a chance it's rich as shit just because it's still trying to warm up?