gibbon

the red is ATF floating uselessly on a layer of water I guess 

meanwhile in the cylinder bores

On 03/03/2024 at 16:37, bigfoot said:

I have a complete dash motor and just about every wire from a gsrx sigma taking up room in my sheds. Also have some starion front caliper kits if you want to give them a go

man I think I've got real problems now, the bottom end is locked solid, I think I've disturbed the throttle body at some point and it's dumped the contents of the coolant jacket into the inlet manifold/cylinders. borescope tomorrow, FML 

sorry all I can do is avgas and jet a1. and you have to pretend to be a thirsty aeroplane to even get that 

I bought some bushes for the wife's march and has no problems with them. actually had the stock, most places just tried to sell me the whole control arm 

it's pickled in brine, is this likely to cause issues?

the throttle is now completely jammed shut and won't budge, god this car is such a fucking diva 

ok I've removed the residual pressure valve for the rear circuit but unfortunately that hasn't changed anything. Im thinking there might be a mechanical drag as well though as even with the lines cracked it's not exactly free spinning. I've just re-kitted the calipers and the pins are nice and greased, really don't want to get back in there

I'll replace the rear lines and give it a flush too because why not

I haven't really done much of anything in terms of flushing it out, I just figured that if there was a blockage further downstream, then cracking the line at the master wouldn't have released the pressure? 

The front half of the reservoir tees off to the front brakes and they're fine. The rear section has a single line, must tee off somewhere under the guts 

I've been struggling with the rear brakes on the starion locking on for some time now, its definitely w hydraulic issue, and as the brakes ease off if I crack ANY connection in the system, I think it's an issue with the master cylinder?

I disconnected the pushrod from the brake pedal and made sure the piston was being allowed to return fully, so that's all good. The master has residual pressure valves in it which is apparently strange for a disc rear, can I remove them?

I cleaned out the return port in the master cyl reservoir and it seemed to work fine on the bench but the moment I reinstalled it, it started giving shit again. Not sure if the port is blocked again, it looks as big from the top as the feed port but I could only get a .010" bit of wire through it in the end, not sure if it tapers or it's just loaded with crud. what would happen if I opened it out?

err has this come and gone? 

On 16/12/2023 at 20:30, 87creepin said:

I would like to purchase an old trailer to build a camper trailer out of 

problem is, I’m not an engineer, so I wouldn’t know what steel is strong enough to support the weight of me and my mrs in a roof top tent above it.

what grade/size RHS should I be looking at for building the frame out of? 

we need to know how big your missus is first. a pic will do 

On 21/11/2023 at 13:13, 87creepin said:

Where do you guys purchase your wiring supplies like cables/terminals from? 
 

I’ve usually gone to Repco, but we all know how sketchy their stock/prices can be. 

RS components or whatever they're called now 

Question for welders:

Yesterday I successfully TIG welded a bunch of steel together. Then the argon bottle ran out. I got the new bottle (C02 this time) and had to change regulators to a cheap Chinese one as it was the only one that would fit. 

Today my welds (again on steel) are like they're not getting gas, instead of a weld puddle I'm getting sizzling and sparking and porous holes and shit. I can hear gas coming out of the nozzle when I pull the trigger though, so what the hell is the problem? Is C02 wrong for Tig? Has some asshole filled my c02 bottle with oxygen? 

That'd definitely do it, too... Price is getting a little up there for something thatd only be getting hauled out once or twice a year. 

Ideally I'd like to modify our 28v ground power unit as discussed above, but $500 doesn't even buy much sparky time these days. Anyway at least I've got a few options now 

@ajg193 it's for rigging some electric landing gear that has a dynamic brake on the actuator, the manual is insistent that in order to get everything to stop in the right place with the right tension on the locks given the momentum of the whole assembly, that it be rigged at 14v instead of 12v. It's not really "precisely 14v", just more something in line with what the bus would be expecting with the engine operating 

I have looked inside once and there's a TIE fighter in there, is that enough to go off 

2 minutes ago, h4nd said:

Send me a pic of it's innards, and I'll tell you how to goose it. The resistor is gonna cost you 12c

Actually here's a tangental question - what we do have already is a 3 phase fed 28v DC ground power unit for starting turbines, how do I tap off a 14v feed from that without frying myself? it's the size of a doghouse and good for 200a 

5 minutes ago, h4nd said:

2 || lipo, easy.

Oh, you can has mains? Well, is 2Fiddy too much? https://www.jaycar.co.nz/13-8v-40a-switchmode-bench-power-supply/p/MP3089?gclid=Cj0KCQjwi7GnBhDXARIsAFLvH4mmOTYQPrmYhm-zriE338bz0AvlewRgMaoQkyPeuknaqPXv3SryrKIaAqK6EALw_wcB

voltage is marginal but I reckon that'd do it 

people have shit to say when they see that sort of ingenuity hanging off their aircraft 

Another option would be running thirteen 14v 3a laptop chargers in parallel but I'd have to package it real nice 

1 hour ago, tortron said:

Would a big old battery charger put that out. 

My one on wheels puts out a shit load of amps (cauge starts at about 20 and goes to 60) at about 14v

That must be a beast of a charger... Ours is a big (and old) benchtop one but I think it tops out at 10a

... are you sure it's not an arc welder lol 

I'll bolt an alternator to an angle grinder and post results 

18v is probably a bit much... Surely pulling 40 amps from that would melt it into a puddle?