gibbon

had a tidy up in the garage Wife saw it and said "so you've built yourself a... shrine.... to who exactly?"

we have a cars and coffee up here?

as someone who doesn't do things properly it's really refreshing to work on an FD, where the advice for 75% of the engine shit you pull off is "don't bother putting that back on"

minor update because I'm embarrassed that it's taken six months to get to this point on the other hand I've saved a fortune in fuel by not driving this beast. So I went down the "while I'm here" supporting mods rabbithole, ditched the powerFC for a plugin Link, changed up to 1000cc top feed injector and spent WAY too long messing around with the plumbing for them (it's still ugly as hell) and swapped the stock coils for smart coils. All of that required a bunch of wiring and thinking, neither of which I am good at. Then the car kinda languished for a few months, I finally threw some hours at it this morning and was amazed by how quickly it started coming together. Starting to get a little bit nervous about actually trying to start this thing. Might take it to work where there's more hands. and eyes. and fire extinguishers

I've finally mocked up some headers for the triumph out of clicky blocks, who's a good fella here in town who can replicate them more or less in steel?

ok. I was going to wire it to the original IAT harness as it's already there. presumably the calibration can be changed afterwards in the menu (come to think of it, considering I don't have a p/n for it I guess I'd better get some readings off it first) Stock position is on the underside of the manifold which seems like a terrible place as far as heatsoak is concerned, I'll move it to the plastic pre-throttle body pipe I'll take your guy's word for it that it's non polarity sensitive, but I did see a two wire aeroflow one that was, admittedly it didn't look too much like this one

I have a fast-reacting IAT probe here which I was going to replace the stock item on the rx7 with. Only problem is that it doesn't have a part number or anything on it (I thought it was Aeroflow brand but it doesn't seem to match their product visually). I understand that some of these probes are polarity sensitive, how do I work out if this one is, and if so, which pin is which?

got an old external regulated alternator here that shorted the stator. I fitted another stator, then hooked up the brushes to a battery just to see if it had any life in it. Got a bit of a spark as I connected the field, and now there's 2v sitting at the output terminal without the alternator turning. It does increase as I spin the pulley, but is it normal for some voltage to be wicking it's way through to the output without the alternator turning? i mean, there's no physical path to the output from the field, it's gotta be the brush arcing out somewhere, surely

oh here we go, looks like the additional of the extra external connector and the swaparound of the pins was during model change v1.3 to v1.4. So this is a 1.5 and I can't see anything that details the changes, but this board does match the layout of the v1.4 external connectors listed below

I haven't got the bit of paper in front of me... but I guess it's good enough to trust what's written on the board itself, rather than what the manual says?

uhh, this is more of a question for Link I suppose, but I have three expansion loom plugs, and they don't match the pinout in the manual?

tbh I wasn't being facetious, there's a lot of very clever guys who aren't certified for aircraft. Likewise I could probably balance a driveshaft pretty well, but no idea if I carry appropriate qualifications for that to transfer to getting signed off in the automotive world. but the offer's there if anyone wants peace of mind!

I could probably put my prop balancing gear on a driveshaft in situ and run the car up on the hoist if anyone cared that much. not sure if my paperwork is accredited enough though

i do sintered bearings in a toaster oven

left hand side was as silly as we'd suspected (no pun intended) rusty and rooted but that's ok, it's why it's getting fixed after all. And pretty crushed. probably because last time it was put together, they seemed to have omitted to reinstall the sill stiffener panel Several layers of extant outer sill panels. Looks like the previous sill was hacked out and the replacement one was just welded over the top of whatever was left behind I'm ordering some additional repair panels from the UK so with that, the panelbeater breathed a sigh of relief and disappeared home 'until the bits arrive', or possibly, never to be seen again