jakesae101

@cletus building a brake pedal when welding the bushing into the pedal what are the rules is it like all other safety critical components where its Tig followed by NDT?

Anyone see any issues using these https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-RG1319 over the standard trunnion setup off a herald its a scratch built leitch lotus 7, they are obviously by design a bit stronger than the original herald items.

Love my Warren and brown torque wrenches I have 3 in varying sizes.

Modifying of clutch pedals are they able to be welded and modified or are they in the same vein as brake pedals eg: a must be a single piece of 8mm with only welds on the pivot and pedal that if fail cannot cause a loss of function?

We have a space in our lockup later in the year but could make it earlier possibly , However its in porirua the space is 100M2 split up 4 ways with 1/4 being storage racking with 2 cars underneath and then we all have 1/4 to work on stuff plenty of room for a car and a workbench and tools as its set up for now. Ive been in there for 3 years or so and the other guy has been there a year and a bit the guy that's moving out was part of the original 3 including me that rented the place. LED lighting inside and I have a air compressor , welder ect that happy to lend to people to use. its a commercial unit setup with a secure gate and cameras in the yard.

I run a breaker in my racecar as the battery is in the boot never had any issues with it and it will hold up to starting load (non gear reduction starter on a highly strung high comp 4 banger) . Most fuses have a trip curve of sorts to deal with peak loading vs constant overloading.

Try running lump, kingsford run great doing snakes ect in my kettle but ash up too hard and have had coals get ashbound when doing long cooks in my offset. I use commodities nz lump 24-25$ 10kg nice big pieces I normally start with a big chimney of it then switch to running wood and may alternate between the two depending how much wood I have I use alot of Pohutakawa.

@Skodie should get in here he has all his his stuff from back in the day with homebrew mods included

Safaris had a factory voltage reducer did they not?

He split with his missus and had to sell the workshop but he is still definitely in business from home.

Have a look at motives videos on youtube they did a massive set of RB videos looking at lots of stuff inc oil pumps.

A friends dad has been there for years (they used to be in newtown) they do really good work the other guy to talk to is Jimi at Revamp Upholstery in kilbirnie he is really good also.

Good to see Leons Pris living on through another friend

Pretty cool and its being made in NZ!

Tried Suspension Tech? he's usually pretty quick to get back

So small updates been hoarding wheels and tyres after my holiday ill get the semi slicks and rally tyres put on them. Done some small things like a check valve in the booster line to help now that im not making so much vacuum I took out the Lambdalink gauge and fitted a proper wideband gauge I ordered a bunch of jets and air correctors from the uk to try refine the tuning as its running rich on the mains here is that seat that i put in too Today i dropped down ne main jet size and up one air corrector size its better and here is a video

right Lets try this again after loosing all my post. Right long time between updates got a new job , Married my partner of 7 years and had a 3 week honeymoon in Hawaii all of this meant that there wasnt alot of free coin for the racecar however shit has been getting done albeit slowly . There has been quite a bit of redos along the way but its really close to finished now and im happy with 99% of it anyway Sump Guard in retrospect id mount it slightly differently and chances are ill make some different mounts at some stage but im happy as it is for now Also mounted up some bright as spotties I had lying around It also had a corroded hardline that was really easy to get and was only about 15$ to I replaced that There also happened to be a ka laser at pickapart so i got a couple of bits off That small tab is actually a support for the water hard line mine was missing, the shifter i cut up and made into a short shifter that shortened things up massively as i was having clearance issues going into reverse once i installed different seats and a spare thermostat housing as it was way better than mine and you will see later on I was glad I got it. Anyway there were a few things i wasnt happy with and wanted to tidy up my mate who is a MSNZ scrutineer and i chatted for ages and nutted some stuff out. Seats , I was never happy with the drivers side mounting and my mate confirmed it wasnt up to msnz standard so out with the old in with the new. As it turned out this was part of a batch from autosport of kevlar seats that goot the FIA rating pulled as they reduced its strength in production leading to them having a tendency to snap in high impact obviously not ideal.... I scored a brand new racetech 4000W of the tard really really cheap so that's in it now i just cant find a photo. Fuel Pump, It was sealed in a plastic container this was less than ideal it needed to be in a sealed metal one finding one at first that would fit was a challenge so i got creative. Turns out the old Facet wasnt much longer for this world so i was donated a much better, quieter and newer pump I also did a bunch of service and upgrade stuff in the engine bay. New dizzy cap and rotor as mine were looking pretty sad Installed a new OBP catch can and Holley FPR with a gauge . Fitted Dual return springs to the carb Next was onto the Battery i never liked the position of the old one as it was in the way for everything and i had no fusing at the battery end. I picked up a JMMS battery holder for a small battery and welded some 20x20 box to the body and high tensile nuts ect ect . Still needs some terminal protectors but its much better. The beefier ground and cables also helped with my slow starter id get from time to time Right onto this last month or so's project, I got my spare cam regrind by Franklin Cams after this I discovered to change said cam the head had to come off as they share bolts here is a photo montage of this, I got new gaskets and waterpump plus some hoses ect that were looking a bit rough and swapped it all out along with my spare thermostat housing as mine had gone porus and was seeping coolant. Overall things were really clean and tidy and can definitely say its been rebuilt and the bottom end is 020 oversize and it hasn't done a lot of work and everything i was told when I brought it seems true. At this point I put the rocker assembly on to find things didn't fit the arms were not lining up with the lobes, After looking at my manual turns out they had put a B5 camshaft and rockers in ( this is a E5) as one is camchain and one is belt driven I didn't even know it would work now cue trying desperately to find the bits I need. A guy on facebook said he had a complete head from a turbo one but the head was cracked really bad the turbo heads are different but the rocker train is the same. Cam helped me out as i was a bit scetched out by the dude initially as you do on facebook saying he has the obscure bits you need. Cam got the bits paid the dude for me and sent it down, I swapped my cam caps and pedestals over and all was good again aside from having to tap all the jam nuts as they had been way over tightened and didn't move free on the adjuster. Went to drain my oil to run the full zinc oil Franklin recommends for cam break in and find this ! Down to supercheap for a replacement! All went fine il pressure came up and we ran it up and reset the valve clearances ( ill put a video up) it sounds much snappier now than before. I need to put proper coolant back in and swap my old rad fan switch back in as the one in my spare housing isnt working. Lastly I finally got a proper mount and cabled up my launch control button so its in a usable place. Really needs to go on the dyno now so thats what im saving for.

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