mjrstar

Would something like the top tank off this work? https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/car-parts-accessories/mitsubishi/radiators/listing/4647905590 I have one with a mystery leak that I couldn't be bothered trying to solve so I just got a replacement rad..

^^ yeah 100% hf start if you are learning tig. Otherwise you will give up.

Convert the k24 to run Volkswagen dsg, there are kits.

^^about a grand give or take, there is a pretty consistent supply on face crack but I guess supply will dry up one day..

The golf R32 engine has intrigued me, I haven't done any real research, so it's probably a garbage idea for some reason, and is probably not ideal for high rpm, but from a capacity vs physical size, it could be alright... it seems like a likely candidate for a +t conversion, just check out the head gasket surface area between the bores, and the number of head studs.. (2 things not easily changed on an engine)

cool car, hopefully you can rescue it! that cylinder head is probably 1st gen B16a (the cam cover is anyway).. P30 - B16a P72 - b18c black top (i don't think its one of those unless the inlet manifold has been modified to fit) P73 - B18cr

^^ good point, I had long body in by brain, even after the @keltik comment.

i bet there are piles of falcon injectors from turbo barras that have been upgraded, even the non-turbo ones might be around 300cc? but DYOR

Had a friend's ford territory that did that..one of the main relays was brown inside and occasionally it would only let about 8 volts through.. quite trickey to diagnose, uncool for her when it shuts everything off and every warning on the dash starts scrolling through..

After some poking and prodding I decided it was play in the inner end of the tie rod, not a lot, but some... I do feel like a bit of a scumbag for reusing the steering rack boot and outer tie rod end, but they passed my inspection, it did at least get a new lock tab.

Gah I don't want to diagnose something I just want to fit new parts and get on with my life.

Wof question, is this just talking about needing a new inner tie rod, which is nice and easy or some more balls aching like a complete rack swap required?

Gss342 is algood, I have used them as a near OEM fitment on a bunch of stuff.

I have messed around with numerous clutch setups that have been piecemeal together from different cars.. they can be trickey to get juuust right.. It kind of sounds like the release bearing is backing off too far from pressure plate, or it's getting air in the system, or maybe a spongy clutch hose. Ie you don't get the travel at the release bearing that you apply at the pedal.. Finger damage probably occured when you fitted the bigger master which is over-throwing the release bearing, assuming the bearing profile and diameter are correct...

Great job, Isn't it amazing how much time and energy can go into a single component.. oh yeah I'll just whip up a shift mechanism that does exactly what I want and doesn't fall apart, or make shit ho backwards.. This is what the mx5 one ended up looking like, the Nissan box didn't come with a shifter, and needed to come forward anyway due to engine position.. (Note this was version 2)

Probably an aftermarket Dorito motor item could be worth looking in to?

You could consider hard line with a flare and an AN dash fitting for the boost reference on the wastegate where heat is an issue... Then connect your rubber hose somewhere closer to the boost control solenoid.. works well after I suggested this on a mates 2jz with twin wastegate gate twin scroll with one wastegate well tucked away into a hot spot.. he also has water cooling to keep the diaphragm in tact...

I dailied Dunlop 02g and 03g on my Evo, it was fine. Even in the wet a semi slick is fine unless you are doing dumb shit in standing water.. The only disclaimer here is if you are in near ice conditions they can be marginal. The ad08r has a pretty open pattern to some of the others I have tried so I'd say they'd be fine..

Things to look out for in a 2000's (or actually pretty much any)Falcon Rust, diff whine, slipping trans, rust, shuddery brakes,fading paint, leaks, falling apart interior, rust etc..

I'm running some 2017 spec tyres on my wagon, it's got a bit over 40,000km on them, tread wear wise they may have seen their last wof, but I'm not concerned with imminent failure due to the age of the rubber.

With the 4.77 first and second are pretty close to what my Honda will do with 8750 rpm and a 4.4 final, which works fine in real life conditions with maybe 190 flywheel HP on a good day and 1000kg. The difference is my 3rd is good for maybe 125kph, 4th 155kph and 5th 185kph which is what helps the little 1800 feel alive. I'd be looking at something that brings 3rd 4th 5th closer and ignore 6th for racing duties and treat it just as a touring gear.

I have the older model of that XA200, which has been faultless for 10+ years now..

What does it look like with a 225 45 15 on the rear? I have a pair of used AR1 in that size you are welcome to for free.

K swap. More specifically Suzuki k14 turbo from a new swift.

There probably won't be a lot of selection in the wider 15 inch, I'd probably look at a falken rt615k if the do the sizes you need, I'm sure they'll do the 205 for the front, not sure on the rear.. Another option could be Maxxis vr1.