mjrstar

Just search fleshy leaf on only fans then?

I've been in the splice and join brigade for a long time, but I have to think these days fresh wire and new terminals for existing plugs would be my go-to if possible. Eliminate those joins where you can.

i think i remember there is some magic area ratio between in/out to manitain average velocity, that for instance if you just hog out the intake flange side and leave the valve area the average velocity is garbage, then if you hog out the whole lot then the average velocity is also garbage. how do you work out what optimal velocity might be, well i dunno. but yeah you want it to zoom in there real fast. so i think you want the port volume to be just enough to not choke power so the air gets maximum zoom through the valve seat.. i think my old mini suffered from massive port, big 296 cam and big valves to the point where there wasn't a lot happening below 6000 rpm.

Could you spin up a 5 or maybe 8mm spacer for under the each of the mounts for the sparkplug cover to allow fitment of an unlolested cover?

What sort of timeframe does the wave spring job take. I'd assume the one in my airtrek is long destroyed. My initial plan was to just run the car to destruction, as I've had my monies worth out of it..but now in 2 minds about maybe giving it a bit of a birthday..

This is what I did to mate the nissan box to the evo engine in my Mazda. Although I think the magic number was around 12mm in my case.

Probably about 4 grand difference and about 40hp and 2000rpm? You could probably swap some good stuff over such as cylinder head, cams, vct actuator etc but without the extra compression it wouldn't have the fizz factor. Hopefully the red top can be saved! Is it the same to try and turn over with the clutch engaged?

I had an intermittent slow turnover k24, the starter bench tested visibly ok. It would generally start with a jump, although the battery was fine, sometimes it wouldn't start with a jump, ten it would. I stripped down the starter and it was chocka with brush material. There was a bit of damage on the comutator which must have been eating the brushes. Anyway TLDR, double check your starter motor. / how easy does the engine bar over by hand?

If you use the link for speed pickup be careful with maximum input frequency. For instance an abs sensor with ~ 50 Teeth would probably be too high. The signal divider things are cheap as from jaycar which is one way to solve the problem. Something like 8 or 10 pulses on the axle should be ok, you could for instance just glue 8 small strips of metal to an inner cv at equal spacing and mount your hall effect sensor. I would think single axle input should be close enough. I run 4 pulses on my Mazda driveshaft, (3.5 diff ratio)which is under 500hz input frequency in most cases. Some links can handle more like 2000hz on certain high speed digital inputs so might pay to check.

Is a non wof'd car with a MSNZ log book and cage ok these days?

I had one of those ibc's in my evo and it was faultless. However same type of unit in my mx5 is up to no good. Man I hate electrical items that don't just work.

Inlet is giving me vg30dett vibes, I hope the airboxes don't de-doort it too much.

Yeah the correct OTG adapter is the key for a street car, for a race car I'd say maybe a charge could last a day's worth of activities.. Someone with some smarts could crack open the case and hardwire the charging supply. or splice up your own cable, there can't be too many wires some for data and a couple for electricity?

It may or may not appeal, but if looking for a budget friendly option check out the realdash app.

Very cool. This is what I should gave put my 4g63t and cd009 into instead of tiny little mazda. Man that seat looks cool! Here's a top tip for your race car project. Don't buy your race tyres too early and then get sidetracked on other projects or you will end up with 10+ year old semi slicks with flat spots that still have the stickers on them.