BlownCorona

so im gonna enlist Valiants help and hes instructed me to not mess with it too much, but i took the top off and checked all the jets, and they are all clear.

ok so just went and had another look at the idle jets, i have a 45 primary and 50 secondary. this should be pretty perfect and definitely not present the issues i have. so full run down on whats going on since ive been all over the place. i cannot get the carb to idle at any speed, i expect if i went to something crazy like 3k it would but thats just stupid. in order to keep the engine running i need to PUMP the gas pedal. when driving it feels jerky when on the primary and when i open the secondarys up i get a spluttering sound that reminds me of a modern drift cars rev limiter or something along those lines. when i wind out the primary idle jets holder bolt i can get a pretty smooth idle and really nice performance from the carb, just i get run on/dieseling and i noticed that the engine can actually start to spin backwards. besides, those bolts are supposed to be wound right in. might also put this in place of the first post.

i have the two from my parts weber that i can try, the 45 - 50 was posted on my 18r weber specs now that you mention it. would the wrong idle jet cause this?, i do also need to fine tune my timing, so ill grab my grandads timing light at some point.

mine is definitely a DGAV, however i took the choke off since it was incomplete and i didn't want to have to hook it up when i can simply use throttle control for 2 mins in the morning.

i took the idle jets out but couldnt see any markings, i did consider this being the issue.

i have a proper weber 32/36 on the car and another one that is the Spanish remake of it, only the Spanish remake has that little unit. should this be on all carbs? and should i see if i can put this unit on?

i dont think im gonna go for a wof till i get this sorted, it coughs and splutters when it opens the secondarys and even if i hold the gas pedal down it wont idle, it needs to be pumped. this is quite confusing since when i had the the other jet on the side screwed out a bit as if it was a tuning screw the carb performed amazingly, good power and smooth idle, it would just diesel when i tried to stop, and as i noticed, spin the engine backwards sometimes.

nope, used carb manifold gasket sheet, out of curiosity, would would happen if you used silicone?

the idle adjuster i talk about is the screw that actually moves the throttle lever. and a set of proper plugs are on the shopping list. ive set the enrichment screw to backed out 2 turns as the base setting should be, but it wont idle. is there some sort or adjuster screw that im missing? also does not idling affect a wof? im due for one tomorrow

i read your version of this thread to do with the hunter, however i may have just fixed it, turns out one of the tuning bolts wasnt actually a tuning bolt, its one that holds in an idle jet, winding it out let it idle well, but caused run on, so i would this in properly and its all good, but now i can get it to idle. so either i need to look more on tuning the weber or im missing something, since the idle adjuster dosnt let it idle even if its would right it which as i have read is bad anyway. thread title edit aswell

im trying to give it a full tune up, the factory specs say i need NGKbp6es and it has NGKbpr5es, i have read that incorrect spark plugs can cause it, are these plugs different enough to be an issue, and the car never did this with its normal carb, i need to get ahold of a timing light, but should the timing be the same as factory, even when i change the carb? cause i set the timing a few months ago, and again it never did this a day ago when i had the factory carb.

ok so just went and had another look at the idle jets, i have a 45 primary and 50 secondary. this should be pretty perfect and definitely not present the issues i have. so full run down on whats going on since ive been all over the place. i cannot get the carb to idle at any speed, i expect if i went to something crazy like 3k it would but thats just stupid. in order to keep the engine running i need to PUMP the gas pedal. when driving it feels jerky when on the primary and when i open the secondarys up i get a spluttering sound that reminds me of a modern drift cars rev limiter or something along those lines. when i wind out the primary idle jets holder bolt i can get a pretty smooth idle and really nice performance from the carb, just i get run on/dieseling and i noticed that the engine can actually start to spin backwards. besides, those bolts are supposed to be wound right in. might also put this in place of the first post.

tacho definitely set to 4, but like i say could be incorrect anyway HOWEVER today, i made up some new gaskets for the carby and gave it a nice tune up (just the carby so far, since i cant get parts to do other stuff yet) and it will now rev out to about 5000-5200 if i pushed it.

that trailer provides inspiration..

ahhhuh! i just did a small amount of googleing and the truth is somewhat in the middle, the 2zz has a basic system where the rpm for power cam coming on is 6200 and the rpm for dropping down to econo-cam is 5800, to give it more of an operational range. sorry for the thread hijack, however you don't come across many exige owners

sounds like a fair plan, as soon as i can get some bolts, im ready to bolt in my weber and tune that, so ill do everything at once and see if it helps, also any other opinions and possible issues?

oh yeah i know what the rev limiter is, this was a seemingly odd system, that when the 2zz is on its power cams, the ecu wont let the engine rev under 6200 when shifting gears or letting off the gas, thus switching to econo-cam mode. and to me this sounds about as desirable as a throttle jamming on mid turn, but logically thinking, its a sports car and it must work to a certain degree.

i have a small after market tacho, and the red line actualy moves, so not that, its that natural point where i feel the engine shouldn't go further. its entirely possible the tacho is wrong mind you, but would a physical problem cause a seemingly low redline but still provide the right feeling for a redline? i guess also possible, is that the redline is supposed to be about 4200.

This has been something hanging on my mind for a while, my car seems to redline at ~4000 rpm, it sounds like its at its limit, but 4k seems really low to me, its a Toyota 18r, any input?

oo i see, very nice, guess ill have to put some effort and google the anti rev limiter

So on my aircraft engineering course, we were shown a video of one of these out maneuvering an Apache helicopter gunship with Jeremy Clarkson driving it, made me pretty jealous of you. however he said it runs a vtec style system with the economy and power cams etc.. but he claims it has some kinda system that wont let it drop below the 6200rpm level for the power cams, i assume it magically knows when you want the power and when you want to keep the fuel in the tank. how does this work and how does it feel driving with what sounds like an anti rev limiter and driving with the accelerator jammed on.

crash starting is very hard on clutch and drive train, if i were you i would try and rig up some sort of starter anyway, even modify an electric starter from a scooter? my similar project has one and its makes it so easy to start

unsure on the two tone.. will reserve judgement till its fully built up however..

^ want

so so sweet