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Posts posted by Adoom
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28 minutes ago, Nominal said:
Yeah, the cga overrides their technical warranty. Do you have a backup helmet?
Yep, been using my old auto darkening helmet. It works fine, but the work area needs to be well lit because the base tint of the lens is fairly dark.
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15 hours ago, kws said:
Man i'd be CGA on that shit. You paid a premium for top of the line, it should be expected to last longer than 3 years.
Supplier has said it's technically out of warranty, but told me to send it in and they will take it up with Optrel to see what can be done.
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32 minutes ago, Jusepy82 said:
Hey guys ,
How much stick out do you have when you are mig welding ?
Maybe half the diameter of the nozzle I guess. But it varies a a little depending on what you are welding. On thin <1mm stuff I like to get as close as possible while still being able to see what I am doing.
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1 minute ago, Bling said:
Worst case you could make up a battery pack that plugs into the charging socket?
Maybe, there could be clearance issues between the usb charging plug and forehead. I've googled replacing the battery, but all I found was for an older model that is not even remotely similar to mine.
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Well shit. My expensive $800 Optrel panoramaxx 2.5 helmet I bought in 2019 doesn't charge anymore. The battery is supposed to "never need replacing", so is not user accessible. The helmet still works while the charging cable is plugged in, but totally dead when unplugged.
I've optimistically emailed the supplier in the hope that it's a known fault and covered by some warranty. I really can't justify buying a new one every three years.
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Staaaaaaaaaag.
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And the front panel is welded in! It definitely needed lots of convincing and about a million vise grips to get the panels to line up properly. There is a couple of spots where I will need to use some filler to get the levels closer.
I added in some little bits of angle to stiffen the panel join, like there is between the wing and the a-panel.
Still got a bunch of visible welds to grind down.
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3 hours ago, Crispy said:
I find Minispares Uk cheaper than Minisport for parts. Both are fairly reasonable compared to NZ Retailers, however understand they have overheads and margins they need to cover.
If you're importing more parts at any stage let me know. Always keen to collaborate and keep shipping prices down a bit.
Thanks.
In my case, it was cheaper from minisport UK vs minispares UK because they had the gaz shocks and adjusta-ride as a kit.
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STUFF!!! I won't need this stuff for quite a while, but I thought I'd better get it now because I was thinking prices might go up with the looming recession, or whatever.
I got all this, including the GST and freight from UK for about the same price as buying only the shocks and rubber "cones" locally. So the adjusta-ride and new knuckes were basically free. Still quite a bit of money. Apparently the rubber cones are supposed to be replaced after about 6 years! I'd bet not many people did that. For those not in the know, the rubber cones are the 'springs' in mini suspension.
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Be sure to store your CDs in the dark. Had some dropped on my desk at work that must have been kept in the sun or something, they were totally fucked and turning weird colours. Straight in the bin.
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Is the yellow also 2k? Or is it 1k and you painted over the top with a 2k clear?
Looking good!
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Painted the front panel after filing down the razor sharp panel edges. Still cut myself on it. This is so I can get paint in the places it will be hard to do with a gun when the panel is mounted. Not sure If I got the mix ratio correct for such a small amount. Where it pooled in the low spots it took several days to cure. I think I will use digital scales next time, rather than the mixing cup markings.
When I drilled out the spot welds for the original panel, I drilled all the way through, then I overlaid that panel onto the replacement panel and made dots on the headlight ring so I could line it up with the holes in the wing. It was still a wrestling match, as you can see the front of the wing is a bit beat up and out of shape.
Then I thought, I'd better put the front panel on too, for additional alignment guide.
So I went to bolt the front subframe mounts to the front panel.... and found I needed to file the locating pin holes so I could actually get the bolts in to the captive nut. With the mounts now on the front panel, I went to bolt it to the two holes in the front of the subframe.... And they were off by about 10mm and forcing it on made one of the old mounts partially delaminate. Well, I may as well make some solid mounts, since I plan to do that eventually anyway.
One mount.
Two mounts.
I didn't have alloy thick enough, so I did them in two parts. I'll keep telling myself I'll tig them together later. I threaded the pin holes and used cut down bolts for pins.
You can buy solid mounts like these... but they are about $60! Only took me about an hour.
Found that the correct distance between the two bolt holes in the front of the subframe is 660.4mm. Measured the subframe and that's correct. With my new mounts on the panel, I only had 655mm, so more filing of the pin holes in the panel.
MOAR wrestling and I got the front panel aligned enough that I was happy to weld the headlight panel in. I have already pre drilled the seams on the new panel for plug welds. I will rotate the car belly up, so I can weld down from the top... The seam lip on the old panels is pretty thin now.... so the plug welding is going to be 'fun'.
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Finished processing the parts mini and cut out the panel bits I need.
It's a real bastard trying to cut out the 'companion bins' either side of the back seat, without damaging them.
I used the engine crane to put it on the trailer.
It was only some light drizzle when I left for the metal recyclers.
500m from the metal recycler, the heavens opened.... and ALL OF THE RAIN fell out. I got totally soaked just removing the tie downs. Fortunately the guys used the forklift to unload it.
Got $30 for the shell and some random scrap, so it will cover a trip to the transfer station with the hideous honda seats that were in it. I'll have to find some other junk to make the trip worthwhile.
I also tried some ExOff degreaser. Mitre10 was ~$70! Repco had it for ~$40 but the local was out of stock.... so I asked Mitre10 if they would do their 15% price promise, and they did, so $35!!
Worked well, I didn't think of taking a before photo. These bits were totally encased in old grease, mud and tar. I soaked them overnight then went over them with the wire brush and steel wool, some scraping with the screwdriver was required on the stubborn bits but they cleaned up really well.
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Clamp/press a block of copper hard against the back of the join when you are butt welding, especially with the large gaps you have there. The copper absorbs the heat and makes it much harder to blow holes. The weld doesn't stick to the copper. Also real good for welding up small holes.
I use a bit of flattened 15mm copper pipe.
I think you might also be able to use aluminium, but I have never tried.
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After putting an extra scissor jack under the engine so the car doesn't tip forward. I dropped the rear subframe.
It has a towbar.... WTF do you tow with an 850 mini?
It's still pretty solid, just covered in piles of mud and crap. And it has the handbrake cable guide that was cut off my other one.(apparently because intentions of using a hydraulic handbrake).
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1 hour ago, yoeddynz said:
I'm now watching this thread with even more interest because I've been offered a cheap complete mk1 mini which I might take up in the future when the Imp is finished *
*the imp is always gonna be an ongoing project..
Does that mean I'm not allowed to take a thousand years to finish?
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11 hours ago, fuzzy-hair-man said:
I grabbed the pivot and lever together, the roll pin holes for the clutch bearing fork lined up fine though, so I think that means copy the alignment of the micra one...?
nah. I mean like this. Looking along the shaft, do the top two holes line up with the bottom two holes(all red), or are they different(red+blue)? I need to drill holes for the arm on mine and I don't know what angle it should be compared to the fork at the bottom. My plan was to do a best guess, I suspect they will be pretty close to all being in the same line. But since you have the pivot shaft with both sets of holes in it already..... maybe you remember....
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3 hours ago, fuzzy-hair-man said:
I've fitted a 0.75" heavy duty mini clutch master cylinder, seems better and an easier, neater fit, I'll let you know as the clutch beds in.
Do you recall if the roll pin holes in the shaft for the top lever and the lower fork line up, or are they at a different angle?
I haven't had a go at figuring it out yet.... I've just been stripping the parts car so I can get rid of the rusty shell and get some floor space back.
Did manage to get the 850 running, it didn't seem to smoke at all! Dad reckons someone has swapped a 1.5" SU from a 1275 onto it, so it'll have even less power than normal. I assume no one is going to want a rusty, oily 850.
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6 minutes ago, dmulally said:
I just drain my tank before/after using and run the air line over a rafter. No idea if it works but I've had a couple of water traps which eventually leaked air which was annoying.
My trap was right at the compressor, but it didn't work so well. I think the air needs a chance to cool so the water condenses into droplets large enough for the filter to get them. I'll try it closer to the gun.
My pipes do already go up to the roof and down now, since I got one of those self retracting reels.
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15 hours ago, Bling said:
Sell bricks,
buy old wetback,
????
Profitwarm vinesIt will cool down too fast I think. I'm not staying up all night to keep it going.
I suppose if I can make a system to automatically light it.... using an arduino and a temperature sensor and one of those piezo lighter
I do have an old pot belly, but it's super fucked, the door fell off and the chimney hole broke and it's kinda too small I think. But then.... I could make a steel spacer sleeve to make it much taller. And it would look like a okay garden feature.
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I'm thinking of building an outside brick fire because I've got a whole pallet of bricks left over from the house. It's primary use will be the heat source for a water pipe loop that will run along 15m of grape trellis wire, and back to the fire to hopefully radiate enough heat to stave off the late season frosts that keep fucking up the early shoots.
I'd want it to have a bunch of thermal mass, so I only want to keep the fire going for a few hours and the residual heat would keep the water thermosyphoning for hours more.
It would be a fire with a door.
So... can I just use normal cement mixed with builders sand? Or do I need to use refractory cement? If I do, do I need to use it for the whole thing, or just the layer of bricks exposed to the fire.
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Do I need to use one of those paint filter things when filling the gun when spraying epotec?
I have mixing cups.
And I've ordered an iwata gun with 1.3 and 1.8mm nozzle. And 5L of 2k 'normal' thinners. I assume I use the same thinners for cleaning the gun.
I've still got to get one of those inline water traps that goes just before the gun.
What have I forgotten?
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10 hours ago, smokin'joe said:
someone will adjust this for current, if it isn't, but
make the 'clearspan' between fixings 3.55m ?, use 190 X45 SG8 at 400mm CRS, connected to 2X 245 X 45 at 2.8m longI'm gonna need a picture.
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That's option 2.