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Adoom

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Posts posted by Adoom

  1. 1 minute ago, flyingbrick said:

    Damn that was my dream helmet, came very close to getting one.

    Just open the thing up and solder in a new battery. It's not user replaceable but that just means you need to use screw drivers and soldering irons

    That's option 2.

  2. 28 minutes ago, Nominal said:

    Yeah, the cga overrides their technical warranty. Do you have a backup helmet?

    Yep, been using my old auto darkening helmet. It works fine, but the work area needs to be well lit because the base tint of the lens is fairly dark.

    • Like 1
  3. 15 hours ago, kws said:

    Man i'd be CGA on that shit. You paid a premium for top of the line, it should be expected to last longer than 3 years. 

    Supplier has said it's technically out of warranty, but told me to send it in and they will take it up with Optrel to see what can be done.

  4.  

    32 minutes ago, Jusepy82 said:

    Hey guys , 

    How much stick out do you have when you are mig welding ?

    Maybe half the diameter of the nozzle I guess. But it varies a a little depending on what you are welding. On thin <1mm stuff I like to get as close as possible while still being able to see what I am doing. 

    • Like 2
  5. 1 minute ago, Bling said:

    Worst case you could make up a battery pack that plugs into the charging socket?

    Maybe, there could be clearance issues between the usb charging plug and forehead. I've googled replacing the battery, but all I found was for an older model that is not even remotely similar to mine.

  6. Well shit. My expensive $800 Optrel panoramaxx 2.5 helmet I bought in 2019 doesn't charge anymore. The battery is supposed to "never need replacing", so is not user accessible. The helmet still works while the charging cable is plugged in, but totally dead when unplugged.

    I've optimistically emailed the supplier in the hope that it's a known fault and covered by some warranty. I really can't justify buying a new one every three years. 

    • Like 1
  7. 3 hours ago, Crispy said:

    I find Minispares Uk cheaper than Minisport for parts. Both are fairly reasonable compared to NZ Retailers, however understand they have overheads and margins they need to cover. 

    If you're importing more parts at any stage let me know. Always keen to collaborate and keep shipping prices down a bit. 

    Thanks.

    In my case, it was cheaper from minisport UK vs minispares UK because they had the gaz shocks and adjusta-ride as a kit.

     

  8. Clamp/press a block of copper hard against the back of the join when you are butt welding, especially with the large gaps you have there. The copper absorbs the heat and makes it much harder to blow holes. The weld doesn't stick to the copper. Also real good for welding up small holes.

    I use a bit of flattened 15mm copper pipe.

    I think you might also be able to use aluminium, but I have never tried.

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1
  9. 1 hour ago, yoeddynz said:

    I'm now watching this thread with even more interest because I've been offered a cheap complete mk1 mini which I might take up in the future when the Imp is finished *

     

     

     

     

     

    *the imp is always gonna be an ongoing project..

    Does that mean I'm not allowed to take a thousand years to finish?

  10. 11 hours ago, fuzzy-hair-man said:

    I grabbed the pivot and lever together, the roll pin holes for the clutch bearing fork lined up fine though, so I think that means copy the alignment of the micra one...?

    nah. I mean like this. Looking along the shaft, do the top two holes line up with the bottom two holes(all red), or are they different(red+blue)? I need to drill holes for the arm on mine and I don't know what angle it should be compared to the fork at the bottom. My plan was to do a best guess, I suspect they will be pretty close to all being in the same line. But since you have the pivot shaft with both sets of holes in it already..... maybe you remember....
    image.png.1085503440740dfdfcb0a3dbd198de81.png

  11. 3 hours ago, fuzzy-hair-man said:

    I've fitted a 0.75" heavy duty mini clutch master cylinder, seems better and an easier, neater fit, I'll let you know as the clutch beds in. 

    Do you recall if the roll pin holes in the shaft for the top lever and the lower fork line up, or are they at a different angle?

    I haven't had a go at figuring it out yet.... I've just been stripping the parts car so I can get rid of the rusty shell and get some floor space back.

    Did manage to get the 850 running, it didn't seem to smoke at all! Dad reckons someone has swapped a 1.5" SU from a 1275 onto it, so it'll have even less power than normal. I assume no one is going to want a rusty, oily 850. 

  12. 6 minutes ago, dmulally said:

     

    I just drain my tank before/after using and run the air line over a rafter. No idea if it works but I've had a couple of water traps which eventually leaked air which was annoying. 

    My trap was right at the compressor, but it didn't work so well. I think the air needs a chance to cool so the water condenses into droplets large enough for the filter to get them. I'll try it closer to the gun.

    My pipes do already go up to the roof and down now, since I got one of those self retracting reels.

    • Like 1
  13. 15 hours ago, Bling said:

    Sell bricks,

    buy old wetback, 

    ????
    Profit warm vines

    It will cool down too fast I think. I'm not staying up all night to keep it going.

    I suppose if I can make a system to automatically light it.... using an arduino and a temperature sensor and one of those piezo lighter

    I do have an old pot belly, but it's super fucked, the door fell off and the chimney hole broke and it's kinda too small I think. But then.... I could make a steel spacer sleeve to make it much taller. And it would look like a okay garden feature.

  14. I'm thinking of building an outside brick fire because I've got a whole pallet of bricks left over from the house. It's primary use will be the heat source for a water pipe loop that will run along 15m of grape trellis wire, and back to the fire to hopefully radiate enough heat to stave off the late season frosts that keep fucking up the early shoots.

    I'd want it to have a bunch of thermal mass, so I only want to keep the fire going for a few hours and the residual heat would keep the water thermosyphoning for hours more.

    It would be a fire with a door.

    So... can I just use normal cement mixed with builders sand? Or do I need to use refractory cement? If I do, do I need to use it for the whole thing, or just the layer of bricks exposed to the fire.   

  15. Do I need to use one of those paint filter things when filling the gun when spraying epotec?

    I have mixing cups.

    And I've ordered an iwata gun with 1.3 and 1.8mm nozzle. And 5L of 2k 'normal' thinners. I assume I use the same thinners for cleaning the gun.

    I've still got to get one of those inline water traps that goes just before the gun.

    What have I forgotten?

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