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Adoom

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Posts posted by Adoom

  1. How hot did you get it? All that grease and shit probably tightened up all the gaps in the bearings.

    Bit of heat should sort it out.

    Also. I have an rfb skyline that was freshly rebuilt. Was making 100psi cold idle and 60 hot idle.

    So don't worry about it. Maybe check the oil is pissing out of the cam bearings at idle to reassure yourself.

    I got it warm enough for the thermostat to open, maybe 3 or 4 times, then only running for a few minutes checking for leaks.

     

    How would I check the cam bearings are "pissing oil at idle"... All I can see through the filler hole is one lobe. I imagine running the engine with a cam cover off would make a bit of a mess?

  2. I got two new sparkle plugs this morning and put them in making sure the socket was straight.

    Engine runs MUCH better now.

    I think I must have dropped the ratchet on those two front plugs and broken them, I'm sure I would have noticed if I broke them when I first put them in.

     

    Then I took it off the axle stands and pushed it out into the sunshine and gave it a bath, for the first time in two years!

     

    No coolant or oil leaks I can see.

    The the gauge says the oil pressure is still really high. 60psi at idle and 100psi(max on the gauge) when it's revving higher. I'm 75% sure it was more like 20/60 the first time I started the engine(which is what the manual says it should be).

    The engine has just been rebuilt.

    The bearings and oil pump were packed with that white assembly grease stuff, so that is still floating around in there.

    It has mineral running in oil in it.

    When I disassembled the oil pump to clean and check the clearances I checked the pressure relief valve was clean and moved easily.

     

    What could cause my oil pressure to be so high? I'd rather not have to drop the x-member to take the sump off and examine the oil pump.

  3. Mostly sorted the mess of pipes. SO MANY PIPES!

     

    Tried starting it again now that the intake pipe is complete. The oil pressure went rather high... All I can think of is the oil pressure/water temp plugs might be mixed up. But it was fine last time... I haven't changed anything....

     

    A bit tight down there... See the timing thingy...

    IMAG5021.jpg

    IMAG5023_2.jpg

  4. I'm sure your tie down to key via spanner idea worked great but what I would do it connect a wire to the starter solenoid and touch the other end to battery positive to crank to engine.

    The Link has an input from the ignition "start" position that needs to be live before it will do its thing, like make the sparkle plugs sparkle. Your idea would probably work on something with carbs.

  5. IT LIVES!!!!

    So I got it to start and sorted the timing. I used an SR20 base maps, link forums suggested that.

    Trying to get all the air out of the cooling system. No oil or water leaks so far.

    It runs rough as. Like it's running on 3. I'll pull the plugs and see what they are like.

    IC pipe is still not done, I need to modify the bit of pipe that has the BOV, IAC take-off and IAT sensor so it will fit.

    My turbo oil line still needs shortening, it's 4 or 5 times too long.

    • Like 1
  6. Messing around with the plumbing/hoses. I have a shitload of hose clips and about 8 90deg elbows to get some hoses to where they need to go. :/

    Got my intercooler back from being modified.

    Picking up a timing light tonight to have a go setting the base timing/calibrating the triggers. Not sure how I can crank the engine and look at the front pulley timing marks at the same time.... might have to get the gf to assist.

  7. I went to Howat Engineering because it's only a 3 minute drive from work. Dropped it off Monday lunch, asked for it by the weekend, got a call this morning that it was done. I also got them to roll a bead on the ends of two bits of alloy pipe.

    The work looks good.

    I made the assumption that they would have eftpos. I was wrong. But Brian just said to pay online.

    $57.50

    Would trade again. 

  8. If you plumb it back into pre-throttle body somewhere, when it makes boost the pressure on both side is balanced so no leak.

    Depends on the ISCV unit I guess but not plumbing back to pipe and you'll have air blowing back out through it.

    Ah, I see the boost leaks out. spose I need that long ugly pipe.

  9. Itll leak plumb it in before throttle plate also if you have afm it will not meter that air at idle so itll be all out of wak

    I should have mentioned that the engine has a link ecu and is using a MAP, not an AFM. So if it leaks, it should make no difference if it leaks through its own filter or via the main intake pipe, right?

    • Like 1
  10. FYI: Idle Speed Control/Idle Air Control...

    On my CA18DET I need some crazy snake hose to plump the IAC valve to the intake pipe. Can I just stick a little filter directly onto the valve and not have to have the long hose? I can't think why it would not work. It's not like it needs boost pressure... it only opens when the engine is idling.

  11. I had to remove the fuel tank to replace a fuel hose that had gone hard.

    The tank still had about 30L of BP98 from 2 years ago so it fairly heavy.

    I ended up pouring it out the filler pipe into a 20L drum for the mower... then that was full, I filled my 5L bottle a few times and transferred it to the corolla. It will be fine.

     

    I also took the opportunity to remove the battery tray, fuel pump and surge tank so I could clean it up and paint it. It was a horrible mess from my old battery that seemed to spew a bit of acid and ate the paint.

     

    IMAG4989.jpg

    IMAG4992.jpg

     

    I also made the access hole for the hoses about twice the size it was before, should be able to change stuff without removing the tank now. The paint is not quite dry yet, so I have not put the rubber bead around the edge of the hole.

     

    I've ordered some 2" alloy pipe to replace the IC inlet/outlet. They are currently 1 7/8" or something. I've been meaning to do that for ages, and the hose should clamp down much better once that's done.

     

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