Adoom
-
Posts
2182 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Posts posted by Adoom
-
-
- Popular Post
- Popular Post
I made the 7mm spacer and tacked it in so it stays there.
-
11
-
- Popular Post
- Popular Post
It has a rear seat again. Like a REAL car!
And a seat base still fits!
-
14
-
- Popular Post
- Popular Post
I split this up because I couldn't fit all the photos in one post.
I also thought I'd get some weld-on coilovers or the front struts.
Through pure random guessing, the first strut I looked at was for an AE86, I found out the od of the AE86 strut is 51mm. I measured the od of the Triumph strut with a micrometer and got 50.85mm.
So the weld-on coilovers should fit my strut tubes.
So I asked the supplier if they could get the id of the weld-on bit and the length from the top of the mounting plate to the bottom of the weld on bit when the body is adjusted as short as possible. "I need to to be no longer than 460mm". They emailed the supplier, BC in Taiwan I guess.
The id is 51.1mm, so that's all good. And the shortest length was 459mm.
Not stocked, order from Taiwan.
But something must have been lost in the translation. The shortest length was 480. There's no way to make it any shorter. Where it welds to the original strut tube, the weld must be at least 10mm from the casting and at least one diameter length of the original strut tube must be up inside the weld-on bit. That's ~51mm, but with the damper screwed all the way into the weld-on bit, there's 55mm left for the original strut tube. I thought I could maybe turn the thread off the bottom of the damper, so it would fit down past the threaded section and into the original strut tube. But on inspection of the damper, that's not an option.
Here it is with the original strut. Like this, it's actually 10mm shorter than the original strut at full droop, but on the car the original strut needs to be 30mm shorter to prevent the inner tie rod on the rack from binding. So it's 20mm too long.
I thought I could probably use the same solution for the front as the rear. I'll have to modify the top plate of the strut tower to allow for the camber adjustment to clear anyway.
So I chucked the bonnet back on to see how much room there is.
40mm is how much higher I could go before those nuts hit the bonnet. Will that be enough?
-
15
-
- Popular Post
- Popular Post
So I thought I'd look into getting two new coilovers for the rear because the Teins I mocked up with were old and knackerd.
I went with BC racing because they would sell me only the rears and they were just barely affordable but still decent quality.
The subframe is from an S14 Silvia, so I'm like "sell me S14 Silvia rear coilovers", assuming, these fit, so those will fit. Not stocked, order from Taiwan.
"I'll put them in today. these will be the easy ones".
They were a little longer than mine when the strut body was adjusted as short as it would go. "It'll be fine, a little more droop is not a problem".
Oh, damn, maybe the teins were from an S13....
The Teins are 79mm pcd and the BC are 116mm. Those big top plates also don't fit in the strut towers I made.
"No worries, I'll just make new stud holes and turn down the plate".
The extra holes are because I didn't notice my 11mm drill was bent and because I had to clamped down in the mill, it made a 12mm hole.
Well, that problem's fixed. Now to install the coilover.
This is where I plan for ride height to be. The wheel center is actually the same height as the top of the sill, but the photo angle.....
Buuuuuuut, to get to that ride height, I had to wind the spring platform right down...... and the coilover is basically out of travel and on its bumpstop.
Fuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuu.
So I was thinking that I'd have to look into different BC dampers that are shorter. The damper body is LONG, more than twice the travel.
How much was this mistake going to cost me???
After working on the mini instead, so I could feel I had achieved something on the weekend.
I realised.... my strut towers are totally custom fabricated, I could just make them taller!
There's at least 80mm there that I can raise it and still get to the adjuster knob.
The idea I had so I don't lose the reference of the strut tower top plate is to bolt spacers to the existing bolt holes, then build a new top plate off the top of the spacers as well as the top portion of the strut tower that would slide over the top and overlap the existing strut tower top. I'd then use tek screws or something to attach the new top to the old top. Then I can cut the old top off, refit the new top, using the tek screws for alignment, then weld it inside and out.
Wheew!
I supposed I should work out if 80mm is going to be enough.....
-
13
-
And done the other side. Also stripped off some more glue and tar seam sealer off the seat panel with turps and the brass wirewheel.
Buuuuuut, when I drilled the hole from the inside using the boss in the seatbelt bracket to align the drill..... I discovered that the boss is not flush with the panel like the other side.
There's a 7mm gap
Le sigh.
Well, I'm not cutting all those welds off, I don't think the panel will survive the operation.
I think I'll try slide a washer of the appropriate thickness into the gap and drill a couple small holes in the panel so I can spot the washer to it. The bolt just needs to be a little longer.
-
6
-
-
2 hours ago, ajg193 said:
That will be the place. I'm sure I've heard someone mention that workshop behind the yamaha dealer.
-
Cert man has recommended Graeme Kidd in Upper Hutt to do some coilover tig welding and arrange ndt testing.
But I've not been able to find any business contact or address details for him other than a personal FB page.
Does anyone know where I find him?
-
- Popular Post
- Popular Post
Before I could weld the companion boxes in I needed to sort out a mount for the seatbelt reel.
The companion boxes came from a MK3 which had static belts so there is no mount for the reel.
MK4 onwards had a mount like an inverted bathtub that was spot welded only to the sheet metal of the companion box. It always seemed a bit weak to me.
My mounts might be a bit over-engineered. 2.5mm thick, the crush "tube" is 25mm round bar. It's spot welded to the b-pillar and welded to the inner sill with a reinforcing plate.
-
18
-
- Popular Post
- Popular Post
I'm glad I decided to cut out the lumpy bits where someone had welded in captive nuts.
OMG!
Much better.
-
17
-
5
-
My steering rack tie rods are slightly bent, right where the thread ends. They are now no longer available. Can I use heat and a long pipe to bend them less bent?
-
Spent like 3 hours making two seat brackets. But didn't like them. I guess I'll start again.
-
4
-
-
- Popular Post
- Popular Post
Well, that took fucking ages.
I welded on the underside, so I don't have to do much grinding.
-
15
-
Not done the cube challenge. But it's a good idea to practice on different joint types and metal thicknesses at different angles. Your car is rarely flat. I usually just weld random bits from the scrap bin for practice.
-
1
-
-
Sold to 125T Car32.
-
2
-
-
-
How much would you want to spend on one?
-
1 hour ago, cletus said:
have a look in the suspension standard on the lvvta website, the requirements for welding struts is in there
Ta. Found it.
-
I found a FB post from LVVTA in 2020.
Basically, if the strut tube is cut, then it needs NDT. If all you have done is remove the lower platform and fitted a threaded sleeve with a weld top and bottom to the std length strut tube, you only need to meet general welding requirements.... But your certifier can still request that you get an NDT.
-
On to the front struts.... There's no off the shelf option for a triumph. I suppose I could just get custom springs and cross my fingers the ride height will end up where I want it.
What's the deal with making your own coilovers these days? Other than "don't weld to anything cast". I assume Seedy Al's guide is out of date now.
Can you still weld a threaded tube to the steel strut body and just add platforms/nuts? Where do you source them?
Can you shorten the strut tube for shorter inserts(using the threaded tube to sleeve the join)
Does it need to be xrayed? Need to be done by a certified welder?
I had a look in the CCM and didn't find anything.
-
Redline performance will order only the rear BC Gold coilovers for me for $1195. So I'm gonna do that.
-
1
-
-
I've got some worn out, really old TEIN coilovers in the S14 IRS that I've got in the Triumph. I asked Driven Performance if they can supply just the rear in the new style with the adjustable body. But they say TEIN will only supply full sets.
But they can do just the rears in either Border, or D2.
Does anyone have experience with either of those? What's the quality like?
-
SO MANY HOLES to fill. The seat base originally is one big panel that includes the boot floor and it would join to a forward facing flange on that vertical panel. When the seat was deleted, the forward facing flange was cut off and the join was reinforced by wrapping a long strip of steel over it down the whole length.
But that leaves me with something like 30 spot weld holes with nothing under them.
So what's going to be less work, filling all those holes, or welding on a new flange(which isn't straight at all) so I can weld through those holes into the new flange?
It looks much more complete with the seat bits in there.
-
8
-
-
I've been stripping and derusting the donor rear seat pockets. I've also done the seat base panel, but it's basically just a flat panel.
I used paint stripper and KBS rust blast, same stuff as metal rescue but it's a powder that you mix with water. You can see from all the tide lines, my tub wasn't big enough.
They are just drying after I rinsed them with my outside hot tap.
There's a little bit of paint left to sand off and some panel beating to do.
These don't have the mount for the front seatbelt reel, so I'll have to make something.
-
7
-
-
8 minutes ago, bathcollector said:
It's going to be a stirling effort if you manage to get a 7/16 nut on a 12mm stud. I think you will be okay. have a look on Nice products site, they might have something that will work if you want to match the stud thread.
The S300 stud is the only one that looks like it might work. I'd need to measure for the shank length, might be too long. It's also 12X1.5 so I'd have to change the rear to match. I'd prefer to buy just one to test if the taper is correct. It seems no one in NZ who sells NICE has the S300. I'd need to get it from Aus I guess, but it says I must contact them for a shipping price.
-
1
-
Adoom's 1972 Triumph 2000
in Projects and Build Ups
Posted
I stripped the spare set of front struts so I can get them ready for welding.
I suspect these last turned in 1971. They were EXTREMELY reluctant to turn. I had to use a punch and hit it really hard with the hammer.