Adoom

Aye? Where you seeing that? As far as I know, the rack housing can be as close as you want as long as it can't touch/rub.

I could. Cheers. I'll have to read through the pdf a few more times to get my head around how my degrees relate to the mm measurements.

From factory the rack inner pivot is WAY above the LCA inner pivot. The tie rod end normally mounts on top of the steering arm. With the lowered rack, the rack inner pivot is 10mm below the LCA inner pivot. I've mounted the rod end bearing(replacing the tie rod end) under the steering arm. With the spacers I have now, the two outer pivots are also 10mm apart. I can raise the rack about 7mm before it hits the alloy sump. I'm fairly sure the oil pickup pipe is in the way of cutting the sump. I've got no room left to move the engine up/back. The design of the front hub does not allow for the LCA outer pivot to be lowered. The balljoint taper fits directly into the hub casting. You say "minimise the bump steer". How do I know when it is minimised enough?

Nah, it's a dick. All weird and british. The steering arm bolts to the back of the hub. Nothing like a toyota/etc. So it cannot be spaced down. I did think about maybe using a strut/hub from a japanese car, but then I'll probably have camber issues because of the angle of the strut/spindle. And this has the rack in front of the cross member and most jap cars have it behind. Also everything on this is in inches.

I suppose I should. But I'm lazy and I'd need to assemble all the suspension/steering/crossmember and fit it to the other(really rusty) shell I have.

Not that either. Cross member is in the same place, but the rack is ~50mm lower than factory. So I've also had to lower the tie rod end the same amount, which in theory gets the bump steer back to normal. My imaginary wheel/tyre/distance between the pins is 470mm or 18.5".

I'm confused by your question. I've measured the up/down suspension travel in mm. And the angle the wheel is toeing in/out in degrees. Which I calculated using the distance between the two pins and how much gap there is between one of the pins and the board bolted to the wheel hub. (as the wheel turns/steers one of the pins lifts up). mm by themselves are a bit meaningless if you don't know the distance from the wheel center the measurements are taken from. eg: The largest meausrement I got was 5.5mm, but if I measured further away, I'd have a bigger number for the same wheel angle. I had read that pdf you linked. I can't use the method they describe because I've only got suspension(and modified steering) on one side of the car. Nah aye. I've lowered the steering rack, because there is an engine in the way, now I'm trying to fix the bump steer that has caused. I'm not talking about bump steer from lowering the car "too much".

So what's "acceptable" bump steer? I made a contraption to measure it. Ignore the g-clamp, the bolt is too short. Over 100mm of travel, full droop to full compression, I'm getting 0.67 degrees of toe change. As the suspension is raised, it toes out. If I run the ride height I'm thinking of running, the travel will be reduced to ~60mm and the toe change would be about 0.45 degrees.

Yay, the wheel still fits with the rod end/tie rod flipped upside down and that huge bolt head there. There is even a bunch of space left if it needs to be spaced further down to adjust the bump steer.

So I've lowered the rack in the Triumph to clear the bottom of the engine. To sort out the bump steer this will inevitably cause, I also need to lower the tie rod end. Normally, the tie rod end mounts on the top of the steering arm. I've drilled out the tapered hole to take a 5/8th" bolt so I can use spacers to get it to the right height. Everything is just mocked up with clamps and spacers while I work out where it needs to be. I just had these rod ends lying around and will probably be using different ones, but they will be the same bore/thread size. This is where stuff would be if it had the factory tie rod ends on it. As you can see the tie rod and or rod end are too long. The rod end is 5/8" unf and the tie rod is 1/2" unf. The thread on the tie rod cannot be extended as the diameter reduces after the thread. My initial idea is to shorten both where I have the red lines. And use a threaded joining thing, in blue, to join them. I think I would have the rod end always threaded all the way in, with thread lock maybe and do the adjusting at the tie rod end like a 'normal' car. Does this look okay? Is there a better way to do it?

I've still got a rod in my leg. Doc told me that if there is high probability I would break the same leg again, it would be removed, otherwise they leave it in. Reasoning was that if the rod bends at the break, it makes it rather hard to get out.

So there was a skyline at pickapart and I thought I would have a go at trying to remove the rear subframe studs. I had a chisel with me to open up the top of the chassis rail so they could be driven out. Because apparently they are pressed in. I hammered, with the mallet, on that first stud for ages and it didn't move, so either it's REALLY fucking tight or the big washer that's welded in is not a washer and it's part of the stud. But I think it's just really fucking tight, I was starting to deform the stud, so if I ever did get it out, it would have been unusable. Needs angle grinder.... Is anyone wrecking a RWD early 90's nissan and can cut the studs out for me?

I've heard soggy wet newspaper is also another less messy method.

Dude, you have SO MUCH room compared to my Triumph engine bay! I've got about a 40mm square space on the cross member between the block and the steering universal to 'grow' a mount out of.

Watch out. I've noticed that fisholene like some rubber. Makes it all soft and sticky then go hard as. It turned the rear sliding windows in my mini estate into not-sliding windows.

So I've notched the crossmember so it fits under the sump. Then tacked a bit of box section in line with the steering rack mounts so I have a reference. Then I cut the rack mounts off. This is me trying to mock the rack up in the right place.

I supposed if you had 'gridlines' turned on it should work.

That's the plan, but I'm at work and I don't think the files on my computer are sufficiently abrasive.

@flyingbrick I lined them up best as I could to take the photo. There is a bit of a bump on the back edge where the cut starts/stops and some slag on the back of the cut that is making it harder to line the teeth up properly.

Crikey, that's pretty slack of them.

I'll wait and see then.

there's an engineering drawing on the first post..... but the whole thing is 70mm long. off the top of my head I would say if you followed the serrations, it would be twice that length.

I'll send you a pm.

so $83.16 + $11 + gst? for 12 of them made from gauge plate?

Which what when? If you go then I must go too.