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Posts posted by Adoom
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1 minute ago, Nominal said:
Plus the ones at PaP all have the exhaust manifold removed, which would probably be a pain.
I can't use the factory manifold anyway, but it would be a thing I could sell to recoup costs. It's got the cat in it, right?
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I'm not sure if it's appropriate to put this here....?
So I've decided to put a CG13DE in my mini.
I'll need a CG13DE and all the bits needed to make it run (loom/ecu/etc)
And a CG10 manual box, flywheel, clutch, linkages and driveshafts. The CG10 box is apparently a little smaller than the CG13.
And the entire body loom. I will see if I can adapt the nissan loom into the mini because it will be a million times better quality than Lucas.(I also don't have a mini loom).
Currently, all this stuff is at PickaPart... A "complete engine and box" is $350 but I think I may get reamed when I add on all the extra bits and pieces to get it to go.
I'm thinking that I may be better off getting a complete CG13 K11(probably an auto). Then just getting the manual bits from pick a part
Ideally, I'd find a crash damaged one that is close enough to collect.
What should I expect to pay for a CG13 K11? And is it worth the effort to try sell the bits I don't use?
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Got good news from LVVTA today. My suspension/steering modifications don't meet the threshold to require design approval because the geometry is still OEM nissan/triumph. The suitability of the floor pan mods and mounting can be determined by the certifier.
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Zapped the seat brace X thing back in.
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Finished this side.
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Linished...
The holes are so I can spray some oily waxy antirust stuff in later.
Then I started on the other side.
Then I got distracted because I got some new blades for the reciprocating saw and chopped the gap for the tunnel. Then fit the tunnel.
I decided it would be too hard to bend a flange on the end so I will cut the flange as a separate piece and weld it on.
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This side chassis rail... box section... whatever, is all welded. I'll linish back some of the welds.
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Random photos of the bits I have acquired so far.
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Tell me it's a dumb idea, because I've already got a project, here!Project thread.
https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/81725-adooms-1981-mini-1000/
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So, grape vine told me about a round nose mini shell that has rego on hold. And all the rust repairs had already been done to a high standard. It's only in primer so you can see the butt welded joins and spot welds done with a mig. It all looks really well done.
It will need minimal filling for paint.
But, there were plans to make it a racecar, so a number of holes have been filled that I probably need and the rear seat and storage pockets have been cut out.
It was also only 15 minutes down the road.
So now it's mine. It had P-Plates in the past, so no black plates.
It was only a stripped shell with doors and a boot lid. He did find me some things from his stores. Front and rear subframes and some suspension bits and glass. But I still need LOTS of bits.
I know of another rusty shell that is being turned into body cuts to fix a racecar. It's also hydrolastic and the current owner wants all the hydrolastic specific bits, like subframes and suspension bits. I've hopefully got dibs on the remaining bits. Engine/box, wiring, interior, trim, the storage pockets and seat panel.
That should see me most of the way to a complete set of mini parts. Of course everything will need to be rebuilt/repaired.
Discuss!
https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/81726-adooms-1981-mini-1000-discussion/
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WD40 didn't do much. I gave it a polish with jif. Definitely an improvement, the staining is much reduced, but it's a little hazy still. Clearer than it was before, but not like new. Still want to get some new ones.
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Does anyone else have an Optrel panoramaxx helmet?
I need some of the replacement front lenses. 5000.270. Mine are all burnt and stained. I might have a go polishing an old one... like plastic headlights.
Looks like they will cost about $90(incl freight) for 5 from Proline Welding supplies. I guess $18 each doesn't sound so bad... for a molded bit of plastic.
Is this pretty much how much they cost everywhere, or is there somewhere better to get them?
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Well shit. Apparently I was running real low on 0.9 mig wire. I just ran out mid-bead. Sigheth. I changed over to the 0.6 roll and swapped jobs to seam welding the thin edge of the cut floor to the cross member.
Hopefully the local hardware store BOC agent has mig wire as well as gas.
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2 hours ago, SOHC said:
Should i get an alli press VFD? I see a guy selling them on trademe but they just look like aliexpress ones with the price doubled
I got a 7.5KW one from Ali for my 5.5KW lathe motor. I had to get a 32Amp 1PH outlet installed for it cause it's supposed to draw 28Amps at full power.
No issues so far. But I don't use it a lot.
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On 22/01/2022 at 21:46, cletus said:
I haven't noticed it smelling rich, but i have noticed with the stock high pipes that my backpack got a bit of exhaust smell in it and the number plate is slightly stained
I have read people's posts on forums saying the same thing , getting stinky fumes especially in traffic
Does yours use lots of fuel?
Yeh, the exhaust smell thing. My bag and jacket would reek of fumes. With STRONG tailwinds over the Remutakas the stinky fumes catch up.
I don't think it uses lots of fuel. Less than the 2zzge.
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Bandsaw?
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Nissan March (micra) K11 appreciation thread
in General Car Chat
Posted
Yarp, I saw those.