sluggy

And 7 months later.... needs wiring, plumbing and skills but getting closer.

The autometer senders for the pressure and temp gauges are buried in my treasure trove of broken dreams.... Unfortunately I am over the seas so cant get them too you !! But if you wanted to call into work, I can forewarn the team and they can get you into my lockup. they will be in one of the boxes marked VW shit...

Out'n'about windscreens. Based in Tauranga but is in AK 5 days a week. Does hotrod, race cars, old stuff. Also has some great stories. Barry Clark is his name. Outnaboutwindscreens@gmail.com He's on the Facebook as well.

Annnnddd driving again. Just need a WOF, and a bit more finangling with the drivers door to get it to shut nicely. Passengers door is like butter, so satisfying. Found a really good glass guy for the windscreen after 10 or so flat no's to doing old curvy stuff...

Gratuitous deck shot. In case you were wondering, there's 110 bolts and nuts in a longbed 62.

And exhaust pics, not my work, using shores nz to do fab work on this thing, mostly because I can stick metal together, but my finish work is crap... Header is all in sch 40, dump pipe from turbo is a 4" drain pipe. Chute mount is on.. I guess thats progress ! I am making a run at this thing and the Chev, mostly because i have a 1 way ticket out of here in late April and wont be back for 6 months. I would love to have this thing and the chev running and all together before I go. Wont make it anywhere near a track, but a hoon down the road is in order. Ive owned the car for 10 years, its overdue...

Righto, ill change my photo situation . Should work now Glass is flat that I need, contact would be great.

Hmmm, I dunno why, I just cleared my cache and they worked OK for me. In other news, polishing glass... The rear window is negligible on the goodness front, pretty sure it has weld splatter or something like that pretty much edge to edge. Just wondering if anyone would have suggestions around this, there are none in the country, and bringing one in is hideously expensive.

All willwood discs.

As predicted, I took a wee bit of paint off the drivers door because no door stop on, and loose/in a hurry... But truck now has a face again, all the lights are working, rear wiring and pinion seal all sorted, bumpers on front and rear, have started on doors. I got an electric window kit for it, because daily driver, so I can wind the passenger airconditioner down without having a fatal accident. So halfway there with that, waiting for some new window glass to arrive. Getting the side windows and rear tinted to help a bit with the aircon inside. She radiates a ton of heat through the firewall so will attempt to kill a bit of this with some extreme yoga install. Black plate. Rear bumper mount straightened, it was doglegged due to a greatest hit. Note correct welding footwear. WIndow switch uses original door handle, patina intact.

As mentioned in the shed thread, the truck is back form the painters, I let myself down a bit through abject laziness, couldnt be arsed stripping the dash and getting that sprayed, so internal patina will remain for a while longer (probably forever). Unfortunately the panel beater had a small fire whilst underneath it welding the sill on the LHS, caught the seat belt on fire, then the seat, and the headliner, so it will be back to the upholsterers sometime soon. He did offer to pay for it, so no real drama moving forward... So much shiny. Kept the original colour. Bit of reassembly to do. Big wiring tidy up in the tray, I was a bit loose with this on the initial wire up and its a bit of a mess. Pinion seal needs replacing. Trying not to ding it while reassembling, no promises.

Have finally finished the engine/box/wheelie bar mount. Came out OK. Some time later I thought scatter shield, which it needs so will attempt to get that done this week. Then it is onto radiator. Thinking of running rectangular aluminium section under the pan, then transition to round at the hosey connections.

My stock LSA runs a 8 rib micro v belt on the supercharger, 600hp and 25000 ks without changing the belt. Don't see the point of Gilmer unless you are running a 6/71 blower etc.

Engine is an easy fit... seats mounted ecu in gear shift working, have a radiator need to work out airflow and water plumbing front to back, or is it back to front... still a big list but chipping away at it.

Replace the shiny billet with the rotary and thats where it will be, no structure at all out there currently.

Mostly because I have it, and also the weight factor, currently the engine will have no support at the front end. It will be hanging off the gearbox/adaptor

Yeah I have lots of rapidly unshining previously shiny stuff... Can anyone here enlighten me on exhaust design for the rotary, I have been advised to use what looks like steam pipe for the exhaust to turbo. The turbo will not be in anywhere near the stock location, probably hanging around over the gearbox somewhere, so quite long runners. I have some burns 321 stainless 2" bends and straights that are 16g ( 1.6mm wall), this is what I am using on the flat 4, but was hoping to use it on the 13b also. The 321 is good for temps up to about 900c (1700 F). It will be running E85.

The blue car is still in the warehouse after a poor attempt at selling it, so Ive decided to get it at least running. But not flat 4 powered. Ive never owned a rotary, so I guess its about time. Might improve local salability further down the track, or maybe one of the many things I burden my kids with when I cark it. I have an adaptor for the transaxle and a flywheel and clutch coming in, finally found some motivation to get working on it. Should be a bit of fun.. Shifter is in, just need to work out a morse cable set up, usually uses rods, but the cage is well in the way, so ill jimmy something up to bang gears.

Clutch and gearbox porn... Weddle MD5S 5 speed sequential, triple plate clutch. My kids are going to inherit so many shiny parts, bless them...

I really just want to get something running, there is potential to do this and I'm pretty sure this is a tough sell at best, will just see how it all pans out. The likelihood of having both cars haunting me for years to come is high !

If anyone is interested, I am looking at selling the 55. It is a roller, engineless, with or without gearbox. I have a ton of options/stuff that will go with the car. Looking for 20k without the box or 30 with it. Box is a mendeola MD4S, good for 1000 flywheel horsepowers (rotary maybe ? ). The whole deal is no expense spared. Prepared to do deals. As per my build thread, I have bought another car, I have thought about finishing this, but motivation/time are against me. Yet another notch in the bedhead of broken dreams.

Oh the delays... After much looking and talking to authorities, the potential horsies versus the VW pan chassis I have is not going to fly. So I went looking for a chassis that will work with the power plant I have. I have found this in the UK. It is heading back to the chassis builder for more work ( Cotsweld engineering). Not sure when it will be down here, but a much better option and less likely to kill myself, which is a positive. Chassis is built to SFI specs to a 7.5 second standard. Intention is to add bars to get it to 6.5 s spec (not that it will ever go this fast) so completely future proofed. Rear end will be re done to make it IRS, currently a swingaxle set up. So one goes to the garage of broken dreams, and the project continues... year 9...

Yeah I think I do somewhere. Will have to check... All good mate, Ive moved on !!

Large tube of silicon sealant.... For the record, do you still have my torque multiplier thingy ? Or have I misplaced it...

Most of the engine is here, so time for some cutting and tucking. Waiting on piston pins and some hardware. Also going to a fueltech ecu, so I have a link fury and 2 race tech dashes up for grabs if anyone is looking for one. Will try and update this a bit more regularly as I make progress. This is just mocking up, fitting everything in and then will do the engine build once that is all sorted.