Borgweiser

You sick man, I also have a 99 sedan and a 900 Aero coupe. These kick arse, I also have a load of NOS SAAB 99 bits and some secondhand bits- I know all the SAAB Barries/Bjorns

As always there's a trick to it same with the later 900, if you have the correct tool to hold the clutch together when compressed it slides out after unbolting from flywheel. You need an assistant to push down clutch. Book time was 45 minutes for the whole job

I have a transporter here, if it's not too much of a drain in time I can sort. Got four big builds on that are overdue for completion.

Oh wait, your grandfather IS one of the Skoda Barrys. I got the indicator lenses from him via you. Good to see you got hold of this wicked whip, now please change the wheels to Fuchs thanks

Here's the best pic I can find of mine, when it was in daily use. I still have it- great cars. I have plenty of parts at my disposal and know all the Skoda Barrys if you need things.

I've been here before, the HIF44 SU ain't a barry spec carb, but a top notch swap on basically anything that's plagued by complex emission crap. A single one of those would be more than adequate. But bike carbs will sound and look cooler. Go for Mikuni's, basically miniature Japanese made SU's anyway

I wondered who these hipsters blocking up my hood with cameras were. Can lend the 91 Volvo 240 for the cause. Edit- working on photos, computer is doing a dumb - Blue Renault here currently, Morris is street furniture even now in NZ, Volvo very 90's (having grown up in that area in 92, all the cars in the background should be from the seventies. The newest car in the neighbourhood was an 89 Falcon. Just my 2c)

Ford, FIAT, Simca, BMW, Opel all used a 32/36 DFV or DGV. Same carb but mirror image of each other. Hugely popular as a replacement for most carburettors of the era Much better than a Zenith or in this case a Stromberg, new ones available cheaper than rebuild. As for the breather not important unless it's fumey, get a gauze type filter kit that most 32/36 use and you'll find there's an elbow to attach the breather pipe

Just read through first page and last, seems like you got it found if you ask me. Hub flanges sound out of whack. get the bearings off and studs and drop to Karl at Cemeck engineering. He should be able to true them up or at least give a good opinion on them. Probably has good ones somewhere in the shop knowing him

Regarding front wheel dilemma and reading through the thread I may have some advice. MGB front discs should fit with a bit of matching of kingpins and the likes but not sure if it's a complete bolt over job. The two share a common ancestor. I used to work on a mad Wolseley 16/60 in Auckland for a customer, with a 260 Ford motor, the Y block having the right dimensions and of course the best sound the yanks have made to date. In that situation with the added weight and power, we cannibalised the discs and five stud hubs off the six cylinder as well as the tougher back axle. Loads of ratio options and the diff at least was a bolt in job. Loads more wheel options too. Ended up with Rover P5 Rostyles on it which suited it, the other less fun option is get an earlier Oxford drum and shoes, the later cars had an extra half inch of material hence weird shaped drums.

So many horror stories about when it comes to panel work, sadly I can name you a hundred places where not to go. But not many off hand I'd recommend, I just had some work done by Classic and Modern, again heaps of good and bad said about that place (sure others here can add) but the panel work was great, I just had metal shaping done and left in primer, paint finish on some of their jobs is average but was happy as with the metalwork- maybe split jobs between places?

Had one same year same colour recently, 22 thousand original miles and amazing. Loved it apart from the shocking steering. Just a FYI on the fuel pumps, I've fitted Lada type fuel pumps to Peugeot 504's which are two litre and never had an issue with starvation even during mad dorts. Check out the leaks but then check the hose at the tank end and the pickup in the tank, I've had to rod them before to get the crud out. Pause.

I gave em a ring, open till eight..

Keen to come along, has anyone actually checked they're open tomorrow? I've been past a few nights the last month and they've been closed- tonight even at about six pm...

After a load of work, time and two new owners.. It's come back, I enlisted the help of professionals to make the super complex rear lower guards. Pulled motor out for valve grind and clutch and now debating whether to OHV and 1725 it, kinda glad this thing has come back into my life- always regretted selling it.

Those vacuum ports are only in operation after the piston rises, so no good for ignition timing

There should be a vacuum port in the right hand carburettor, it may just be lower than the previous one and a bolt on metal type. Remove the crankcase breather and cut open the top, remove the insides and weld back together, always blocked and full of tightly wound caked gauze. Then either run to atmosphere for max stink- or plumb up to carburettors via a T piece as well as the rocker cover. Insufficient breathing leads to leaks as stated due to high crankcase pressure/gearbox in sump dramas. Make sure vacuum advance actually works also, number one fault with poor performing and over heating A series, dead advance unit

Dude, save your self a load of grief and drive it into Taylor Automotive. They're not the cheapest but they do this all the time, will be bout the same price as a kit and they will wind in a solid coil or such with the head still in place. Unless someone knows another good engine reconditioner locally? I used to use Taylors when I was spannering Jags in Auck several years ago.

Oh dang, since you all in my hood I better show up with something British and leaky.

I have some good side panels and other bits for this you might be needing...

VINZ Parliament St is pretty chur, got me through a couple of similar age things lately with not much trouble. All the VCC car guys drive ti VTNZ Levin as the guy there is a champ with old stuff.

*first comment made before reading second page, oops /ling

gap those rings in the bores they are going into for maximum sealing abilities. Solid lifters were used in some models (forget which), I've always preferred the drilled type for reasons you mention. Check valve guides also. As frosty said, some pistons aren't up to much, I have drilled bigger oil control ring drain holes into replacement pistons to cure smoking. Some A series bits I've come across new have been intended for industrial motors, post up pics of the pistons if you can.

That oil is far too thin, running in or not. Drain it and fill with Penrite 20w60 asap- compatible specification to the original 30w

Mint, I brought my first 501 NZeta back in the early 2000's as a lad (13)?. Used to easily have three up on the thing. There used to be loads around, I once answered an add in the Trade and Exchange and this old guy had a basement full of wonders (some would say junk). Bizzare handling things, especially with a half filled tank... The later 502 that I brought later was greatly improved, the auto clutch engagement is a cool feature, so you only needed the clutch when stationary.