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63Ragtop

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Everything posted by 63Ragtop

  1. As with the other tin, the front plate.(in a vw the flywheel is at the front of the engine) didn't fit for shit either. A critical part as when sitting in traffic, all the hot air exhaust can rush up and the plate isn't sealed to the firewall rubber the cooling fan will recirculate the hot air, which is bad. It needed to move forward about 15-20mm Mustve spent at least a good couple days solid welding, bending, cutting, refitting, checking, grinding. The plan is to test fit everything in the car before paint, just in case.
  2. Now these are the lower tins that wrap under the engine and direct the air under and out the rear of the car. These are OG old-school vw parts. After paint stripping, they had a lot of bad surface rust, cracks and thing broken off. One of my favorite things about this never ending project is learning and trying new things. So the tin got a couple days soaking in white vinegar. Did my best with what I had to hand, check out the high tide line. And then after a wee swim in a baking powder solution to neutralise the acidic vinegar, gave them a good hoon on the wire wheel, shit looks good as new!
  3. Possible better than sanding, but still very messy and time consuming. Lucky I built that extra bench, so good having another work area. Stripping the pulley tin, poor old thing was so bent by being forced to fit the other crap. Gaps looking saaweeet! Mock up for inspiration. Removed the pipe fittings from the fan shroud.
  4. Spent an inordinate amount of time fettling the cylinder tin. These are shitty aftermarket parts like the fan shroud, and have never fitted anything very well. The tin on a vw engine is ducting for the cooling system. So poorly fitted tin is like having heaps of water leaking out of a engine. The big manifolds were always a struggle to fit, more fettling. The factory manifold preheating pipe holes were welded up years ago, Made a start on deleting the last remnant of the heater system as well as adding 5mm hear and there to close up the gaps between the cylinder tin and the rear plate. For some reason the 1-2 side tin doesn't even closely follow the shape of the fan shroud, But 3-4 was almost perfect? Removing the heater pipes is going to declutter the engine bay so much, love a nice simple looking motor.
  5. And then the dreaded delta lockdown of 2021 happened a few days later. Dun dun duuuuun. I've gotten pretty good at removing the engine now, super glad I made that rear valance removable! Decided as I couldn't do much else, I'll use the time in lockdown to tidy up the old tinwear. The layer of black came off easy, but the 20 year old vht engine enamel, not so much. Got through in the end, nothing but time and pressure, just like Andy Dufresne. Sprayed it satin black to stop it rusting, kinda like it, might satin the tin instead of gloss black, that's how they were factory.
  6. Minitruck minitruck minitruck! You know you want to.
  7. Reminds me of this. Great look for the ol girl them wheels.
  8. Tailgate looks like it's might be a nightmare, any replacement available for these or what?
  9. Have you got the flathead back yet?
  10. Gave the crabs a birthday, both seemed to be weeping gas from the between the top plate that the floats attach to. Cleaned everything and reassembled. Also installed a new set of plugs, really need to buy some leads, these fuckers must be nearly twenty years old. Anyway, one of the plugs was only finger tight and a couple had oil stains around the thread? Maybe those rings are stuffed? When I had it on the bench, I re torqued all the head studs, very carefully as to not pull any out of the magnesium engine case. After a quick test of oil pressure, it started up okay, needed a small clutch adjustment,warmed it up around the block, clutch works so nice, like butter, very pleased. On return, it was idling a bit fast, which is a pain. This engine must be warm to set the carbs. Disconnect the throttle linkage completely, and get both carbs to match. Got both down to 2-2and a bit on the air meter. It's never run this smooth, imagine if I could actually tune the Dells! My son found this for me in a thrift shop, I've been looking for one for a while. To go with my og 90s thrasher sticker. Stoked. And yes it's already leaking!!! Quite badly! Seems to be mostly the cylinders, between the case on side1-2, and from between the head on 3-4? Dogs will hunt! Still really pleased with the work done, clutch works well, flywheel hasn't fallen off, I did it to spec but man, if that was 270lbs it musta been 4 or 500 when I took it off. Engine mounts are definitely softer, it does not like hard launch's. All the axle tramp! Not to worried, I said I'll renovate the house next and I'm not driving it daily but it's nice to have it ready it go.
  11. Turns out one person can lift a vw engine down off a bench by themselves. But I would not recommend it. Spent a few nights degreasing the old boxer. Came out quite well. Took a large screwdriver to the old main seal, very carefully leavered it out. The seal itself looked ok so I thought I'd practice and pressed it half way back in with just my hands. Feeling brave, I gave the new seal a go and and it went I just as easy, some gentle tapping with a hammer and the perfect block of wood and done, hopefully it works! Then spent a few evenings cleaning and resealing the alt stand, fuel pump block off, and the new oil cooler. I also found this rather large crack in my shitty alloy pulley. Wonder how long that's been like that!? I did end up buying a new set of pushrod tubes and the rubber seals for them. But after thinking it over, to replace the pushrod tubes the head have to come off, then you might as well take the cylinders off and give em a clean up etc... And I'm not even sure that the cylinders or pushrods are leaking? So I banged the flywheel back on, centered up the new clutch, spent another couple evenings cleaning all the tinwear, and reassembled the whole thing. Except for these. These are for extra punishment. And slid it all back in. Very annoyed at not having time to delete the old heater pipes from the fan shroud, would unclutter the engine greatly. Next time If anyone has one of these scat 36hp style doghouse fan shrouds, without heat, I'll swap!!
  12. Sucks about the engine bro, that much metal in the filter an't good is it?
  13. Tube of poo it is! Yep, I've still got the torque tool, bit embarrassing how long I've had it. You don't have a rear seal putter innera by any chance? This big washer thing. I will return the torque tool once the flywheel is back on.
  14. Good page that, good info. The is the bare minimum set up is the old cast alloy empi box, connecting the oil filler and both valve covers, many many options and devices out there. This is a tidy install. Can't help but feel these are quite small? Or does that matter as the oil should be draining back down at the same time.
  15. Yep, a very slippery slope. I do have some NOS bare factory heads stashed for the "one day" build. Plan this far is to replace oil cooler, rear seal, reseal alt stand, remove heads, maybe jugs? Hope they aren't stuffed, reseal with new pushrod tubes, install better engine breather system. Drive until it dies.
  16. 90km? 90,000miles. Sounds about right. Not really in a position to do a full rebuild right now. Will get some new seals and see how it goes.
  17. Stripped all the tinwear off. Some of the problem is poor crankcase ventilation. As well as the standard cam, lightened flywheel, carbs and exhaust. This engine is actually blueprinted and dynamically balanced, which means it revs faster and higher than stock. Which means more pressure or splashy oil stuff inside or something. Add to that my stupid worst than stock breather, and shit comes out everywhere and anywhere.the front pulley doesn't have any seal, it has a thread that chucks it back inside, looks like some oil has made it out, possibly the oil pump cover below also? The rear crank seal has definitely been leaking, nice wee river running down the middle. Comparing the 1-2 side to the 3-4 cylinder side they look fairly similar. I'm thinking I didn't do fuckall to seal the alt stand when I put it on, was rushing to get it back on the road. The case is wet with oil around it. One thing I did do was replace the seals on the oil cooler, so imagine how pissed off I am with the fecking oil under it. But looking closer, some of the fins on the front of the cooler are pretty hammered and oil stained. guess the fan has been shooting things at it for 30odd years. So add that to the shopping list. With all the leaks up top, it's difficult to tell if the cylinders or pushrod tubes are actually leaking or just covered in shit? After the last rebuild, I wasn't able to re-torque the head studs once the engine was run in, question is, how far do I go with this? It runs pretty good and now I'm not driving it daily I've go a bit of time to seal it up properly. Look at this puddle inside the bottom slead! Yeezus.
  18. Old solid front mount. Nice new heavy-duty kombi mounts in place. So fresh and so clean! Just need to remember to top up the gearbox oil, something else I've never done, not the easiest process I'm guessing. Which just leaves this thing to sort out. Which although looks cool from this side. Is caked in oil from this side. Any tips on stopping a vw engine leaking oil from ever possible place would be greatly appreciated. Fin.
  19. Which finally leads to this. Gotta take these off first and a couple other things, and out she comes. One very rusty dusty old (dated 1999) clutch. The bearing in the center there is all lose, don't think it's supposed to be like that ? Plate looks okay, again center section had a rattle. Bellhouseing was wet and grimey. I bought new engine mounts when I good the new clutch, these polyurethane ones were cool when I was twenty, but I'm sure they make the noise and vibration issues even worse. And the axle boots need replaced again, these only lasted 3years? Shit house. So I spent most of Sunday removing the fucked parts and cleaning the underneath of all the oil and road grime.
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