Bling

In that case might have to buy a CD unit and hope for the best. I did that last year with two parts (interior bits) from Japan, can't get them here, one worked, one didn't, cost a fair bit but zero other options really.

Have you contacted Nissan? They likely won't be able to help, but you never know who you'll get on the phone. They may have documentation for the NZ equivalent which may provide some help. How many wires going from the console with buttons, to the CD drive?

Make sure you go this month then, the food is good at the pub. Won't make it as double booked

Can only swap wheels if you don't have a cert. Get a cert and the wheel specs on the car are recorded on the cert plate for all time. Will need to recert in order to change wheels (to a different size) in future. So ideally you cert it with the wheels you want to run in future. Can get it certed with more than one wheel size. But will require multiple full sets of wheels in order to fully test and certify them suitable for use.

Whoosh, that is a bit technical for me to comprehend lol. I'm not sure the section where the plate might be would flex all that much? The caster arm(?) bolts not far from that area so i'm guessing the main force on the end is up and down? Can't get official word for a couple of weeks, just a tad stressed. Trimming the arm is the method which affects the least other things. Could shorten the RCA, but then i'll likely end up with bump steer issues at a guess. Have looked at other steering arm options and can't see any OEM options that fit my struts. Aftermarket all look to be aimed purely are race / drift so don't seem all that appropriate. Just hoping that a solution can be worked out where they are happy the strength required for the arm to do it's job exists. Was talking to someone who cut and shut theirs years ago with a thread mixed in to allow adjustment. Hoping this is a more minor modification that can be solved.

Thanks for that, yeah it's not in any of the factsheets I could see, they only covered aftermarket arms. Will find out in a couple of weeks when certifier is back doing his thing. Just thought i'd test the waters in here as you may have come across similar things in the past. Thought it might be alright since it's not cast or anything fancy like that. Welding plan would be to weld all edges of the plate, including top side around the ball joint area. Would be solid as fuck IMO.

I have a query about modifying pressed steel lower control arms. They are OEM 2mm pressed steel. Problem I have is clearance off the brakes from the folded up edge of arm. In order to make this fit, is it allowable to have the fold trimmed off and reweld the arm? Thinking 5mm plate cut to fit over the ball joint sleeve, and have the plate tig welded to the sleeve and around all edges. The part removed does nothing except stop the ball joint being pulled out of the end. So I figured if there is a 5mmx5mm ring around the ball joint sleeve that should be strong enough to do that job. Would have a NDT report done. Thanks

Quick google of the model number shows ~$100US 2nd hand, shipped. Not sure if after a local source though.

Certainly won't be doing that haha. Sweet thanks for that, will add on to what I have then, don't want loud noises. Just not keen on keeping the current system and finding out after five minutes of running it's full of holes.

3AU 1500cc. I had a front pipe bent up a while back in 1.5" to carry on from the existing 1.5" pipe. Charts say 80HP would be max for that size (I won't make that I don't imagine). Am I better off starting the lot again and upsizing the pipe, or will 1.5" be sweet? Looking to buy a combo bend setup, reso and muffler, some straight pipe, prices of which won't vary much between diameters I don't imagine. Easier to stick with 1.5", but if that will be shooting myself in the foot a bit, i'll upsize it. TIA

Sweet cheers for that, yeah from what I gather it included plates too, or at least was implied. It at least shows that thread is using all 10mm of the plate. Just waiting to find out on the above sticky outness before I can get car rolling again. Will stick with 15's in that case too.

When certing with wheels, can you have a pair of wheels you want tested front and rear on the car or do you need a full set? Examples 15x7 (full set) 14x7 (pair) both same overall diameter and width. Certing on 15x7 and thinking about option of 14x7, but only have a pair of 14x7 rims currently. Also in regards to threads protruding from brackets, does this look to be enough? Was told two threads visible for photos. I have 2.5-3mm of total bolt sticking through. Tapered bolt end, but full bracket thread is being used. Much further would impact rotor. Cheers

I better get some meat sticks and sauce, someone still got a bread hookup?

Still fixing rust, waiting to get my CO2 cylinder back before I can continue with that side of things. Enough rust in this thread so will keep that progress to a minimum. Bit of boot rust to sort, one corner example. Tacked up, have since finished this ready for primer/fill/paint. Doors are next, had some sheet folded up to have a nice straight bottom edge on the doors. Was going to patch it in sections, but it would take longer and i'd likely have ended up with an averagely not straight edge. Before: With new section clamped in place, no gas = no metal gluing. Etch primed some bits with Zinc-It, then black Zinc-It on top. It's not as good as epoxy primer and a top coat. But all the parts are sound enough that I just wanted to tidy them up, will last for years anyway. Plus some parts like hub faces, steering knuckles, I don't want thick paint layers on. I don't spray the epoxy, so brushing on doesn't really suit. Bits: I need to knuckle down and get rust sorted by the end of the holiday (funnily enough that's what I said about a year ago...). I have most of the parts needed now, just need to paint the engine cross-member and get that installed back in. Then I can reinstall all of the front end, sway bar, steering rack etc. All bushes up front have been redone. Pressed in new ball joints this week, wheel bearings are next. The brake disc bolts to the rear of the hub, so I need to have the brakes all finished first, as I don't want to take the hub off once bearings are in. Still a huge list of things to do. Snookered myself with the brakes as I can't roll the car on 13's up front anymore with the discs installed. Can't roll it without them either as it will mean the hub is installed with no brakes and will have to come to bits again. On the hunt for a pair of 15's to get me rolling. Wheels aren't finished being polished yet. But if I can get them done by xmas I will hopefully get some tyres thrown on and have it moving again. Anyway, a smaller teaser to finish off 2019.

Handy to know about not needing a rego on the cert plate. I will PM you.

Youtube it, will be covered for sure. I have a curly one. Car is going for cert at some point, I want a different plate on it that it currently has. Can't get new plates made or put on to car till it is licensed. Can't get licensed till WOF'd. Can't get WOF till get cert, don't want old plate on cert plate. Currently only have one PP as it was on a trailer. Boom. Will this be a case of paying for a new cert plate the day after it's installed? Will try my luck with Licensys, but it doesn't seem like the sort of system that has wiggle room.

I bet Joker won't even show up after all this

What year do you think it would be? Not sure if serious. Reported? I lol'd

Get on Facebook old man, 15th, I swear I copied it across, server says no.

Christchurch Old School Monthly Meet - December 2019 11:30 AM – 1:30 PM Last meet for the year our Christmas BBQ at the Ouruhia domain on marshlands road. Bring along some meat to cook up and be prepared for some epic new sharns or meet some new people. Look forward to seeing you all there!! https://www.facebook.com/events/427989424560727/

Certifier fills in parts of the form as required, so even if you can download it, that won't work. Speak to the certifier you wish to use and go from there, much easier if you get them on board before you do anything.

https://www.repco.co.nz/en/tools-equipment/garage-tools-equipment/jacks/mechpro-vehicle-positioning-jacks-mpvpj2/p/A1282493 $229 on spesh for the jacking ones currently

I haven't looked into it TBH, but the seam sealers should say what they will withstand. The likes of brake fluid and the likes, they seem pretty hardy but you'd want to check all specs. It was mainly as a precaution to stop any chance of stripper getting in there, or water for that matter. If you can exclude that 20mm area from being affected that is probably the best bet. Is the current paint that bad you need to paint strip all areas? I'm prepping a few areas, but if the paint holds after giving it a good going over, i'm going to leave it as is. 99% of my rust repairs have been due to moisture getting between panels in seams. So i'll just be encasing all mine (either epoxy primer or fish oil (forget the non fish option name currently) as I repair them and not treating seams with any chemicals / acids at all. The oil will be for all areas I can't get into.

Can you prep and seam seal the areas you'll be working on? Capillary action between layers means shit will get drawn in further than you'll ever be able to clean out. Might be able to get seam sealer that is solvent resistance and so would stand up to the rest of your work. You'd still need to be super careful around the seams though.

Good turn out for sure, Prince Charles popping past was my second favourite bit. But it wasn't close to first, burger FTW