Bling

Meat sticks on order, might throw some different shoes on for the drive.

Too potent and things start to eat the alloy don't they? Grease your elbows and get in there with some less potent stuff.

Hire a booth when you need it? For full resprays that is.

So does the other party just get to continue in the race series after pulling a stunt like that? To not even apologise is a clear indicator they are fucked in the head, but it surely can't be good to have people like that in the series?

Yeah for that spot i'd be going epoxy for sure, on the inside too if it's possible? Coat what you can as moisture will get at that panel again from the inside.

Where is the area? Is it going to get wet all the time or is it in a dry area? I brush on epoxy all the time (with PPE). But if I was literally never going to need it again, and the area wasn't going to be a wet area i'd probably zinc-it, then primer over that, then bog then primer then paint. Yeah I know it's not a legit as epoxy then bog then epoxy, but i've zinc-it'd shitloads of stuff I have outside and with a decent top coat i've had zero issues. Just offering up a cheaper, easier solution IMO. I see zinc-it not even top coated on galv gate frames all the time, looks fine. Is actually what I did for my gate frames, weld, zinc-it, then top coat. Haven't seen any issues with it so far. Totally depends where the repair is, haven't seen it mentioned.

Yeah it's bad value for sure. One of those 2.2L cylinders probably costs the same as a full size cylinder refill. Costs a bit more up front, but having a cylinder tucked away means you can weld as much as you want. Could pick up a cheap reg off trademe and a cylinder off there too for not silly money. Test every 5 years ~$100 (with co2 fill) and no other costs other than refills. If you really have super limited need, just give someone a Rutherford to bring their welder over and get it sorted. Rental options when I first started were super limited, so I purchased a cylinder. The bunnings deals seem all good now. $250 gets you a 5KG co2 cylinder delivered (trademe) plus ~$70 for reg delivered (trademe). Bit more than the above combo of 2.2L cylinder + a reg. But you'd get 50 times the repairs done i'd say.

Most of that information is on wikipedia, if you're after pure numbers.

If you don't want to read a book, just look at the photos, I waffle a bit in this post. Not many decent photos this time, have been focusing on getting stuff done and forget to take progress pics. Have given the exterior repaired areas a coat of paint. Ran out of paint pretty quick, so ordered some more cans off the paint code, close enough is good enough. Ran out again, so had some made from the 500ml of paint code paint I had lying around, and a couple of cans made from paint I got matched pre-lockdown. Up until about last week, I was still planning on getting first cert inspection this year. Bit everything on this car is fighting me and so i've come to the realisation that just isn't possible. More rust, wheels don't fit properly, brake lines don't fit properly, certain parts i've struggled to track down, parts from Japan destroying my wallet (will explain below) list goes on. Anyway enough of the negative vibes, here are some potato photos. On the plus side, i'm hopefully getting a deal on a DSLR next week, so quality of photos may or may not improve. Content of the photos, will not improve. First the rust, doors had quite a bit, I removed all I could, and rebuilt quite a lot of it. Then had Warrick @ Canterbury Auto Fabrication work his magic. He fixed the rust on the bonnet previously, and subsequently took most of the distortion out of the doors. Due to lack of time / skill I have just given then a quick epoxy / bog skim and paint. Appearance is at the bottom of the priorities for this car. So long as the rust is sorted, it can be painted properly down the road / never. So yeah just a couple of pics of doors. One of the doors after a skim / paint. Will need a buff up to finish the paint off for now. All repairs got two brushed on coats of epoxy primer, then seal sealer. So they are well sealed and shouldn't cause me any problems for a long time. Rear end bog, lots of epoxy on this too, a quick tickle up, then primer / paint. Rear end got a primer and paint with colour matched paint. Bit light in a few areas after a tickle up, so will give it another couple of coats, then buff up. Will do that after spray bombing the inside of the boot as this is currently all epoxy primer and seam sealer. Brackets that come with coilovers for brake hoses don't fit. Either I am missing something, or they just sell them as two separate things with zero interest in making sure they work together. /rant. I made up some sheetmetal tabs that when the supplied brackets are fitted, lock to the bracket and mean the hose support is locked in place. Gave them a coat of Mathew Black ZincIt, noice. Supplied one of right, which the brake hose passes straight through, the others are mine pre paint, probably obvious because sows ear. They both got tidied up since this photo so they are closer to identical. Car came with one correct belt, which had camo treatment, and one sedan looking belt. Tried to source some poo brown ones locally but to be honest got the run around, so said don't bother in the end. Sourced a pair from Japan. Drivers side looked to be in good enough condition to install as is, passenger side needed repairs. Grabbed them through Buyee as they got listed with pretty short auction lengths. Won both auctions, thought I was doing well. Turns out they wouldn't send them internationally. So I could either bin them or have them sent within Japan. Thankfully I know someone there, so had them sent to them. Much to their annoyance I bet. Had them cut the belts off the parts I needed and bit some perfectly good bits, boo. They sent them to me and I had them in a week. Sweet, by this stage i'm bleeding money, just to get original parts as I want the drop downs from the roof due to them being low profile and sort of a must with the hardtop look. They got the last laugh though, they sent them in a box nearly 10 times the size of the belts and filled the box with heavy packing (not actually protecting the parts, they were at the bottom). Thanks bro... But hey, beggars / choosers eh. Anyway, said parts, which i'll now pay even more money to get remade into usable belts haha, fuck my wallet. From a liftback I think, so the covers for the door panels are different, not a big deal at all. I have one good one and one that needs fixing, so i'll do that then paint them both black. I don't think i'll add up the cost of making these belts, i'll just cry. And last pic the wheels that don't currently work due to lack of clearance from front struts. So i'll scratch my head over the holiday and see about getting some spacers made. Guess I should find out from cert man what clearance he'll be happy with. 1mm currently won't cut it, so i'll try for 5mm, even though spacer maker man said 5mm was too annoying to make, we'll see. Anyway, peace out, probably won't do another update this year.

I get the same thing, happens in Chrome for me, but not in "Edge" browser. Only ran Edge to test it and they loaded instantly. Car is looking good! Seems pretty solid really? Sills go on everything but most of it looks not bad at all. Do you have a rough time frame for how long the rust repairs will take? The repairs look niiiiice.

I slapped sealer on a bunch of my repairs that could trap water. Could be the same situation? Seems legit to me, some of the factory seam sealer I removed was thick as fuck, but did the job 100%. Also that paint colour is fap worthy.

I found the opposite recently, no sea shipping option on Buyee. I'd normally use someone for my Japan buys but the item popped up in short notice so had to go Buyee.

How long? I have some cable somewhere that I could terminate for you. I would need it back though so may not work for you if you'll need it in future.

This could be relevant? https://lvvta.proboards.com/thread/65/shorten-weld-axle-half-shaft

I'd just weld them back on, not worth going through the cert process for that. All of a sudden there is a big list of requirements the car will need to meet. No cert = no worries. Guards will be good for another 40 years i'm sure.

The top feelers would work best when wired to the drivers seat with some electrons flowing on contact.

What are they going on? Does it have decent sized brakes? Current tyre size for overall diameter? I'd always go with tyres made for the vehicle type they are going on, but if price is the main driver then it will be hard to compete.

Only just saw this, is it just the thin backing plate? Bit late on the reply eh.

The clip is much better at 2x speed, just sayin'

No perfect solution I guess. But nine times out of ten i'd say the changes people have made post cert will be obvious. Chopped out another 50mm, wheels now @ -5 degrees. Gotta be better than hoping for the best. If WOF man has a concern about a modification they can check photos pretty easily. I don't recall the last car I saw with a cert that was still passable. RFID is in all sorts and doesn't seem to care about 240v running and the likes. So probably no issue?

Here you go: https://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/newsletters_pub/LVVTA_Newsletter_2020_January-July.pdf Got that via their mailing list, interesting read about the RFID stuff.

Spotted what I assume to be a wild @DoBro Jesus out testing his turning circle at Hornby lights, looks good mang.

Well there you go, told you it was above my pay grade. Good information to know though!

Yeah it's all beyond my pay grade, but consensus seems to be that stronger isn't always betterer. I don't know much about the cyclic side of things. But from a brief look, it seems the braking / moving of suspension would fall into cyclic loading. As to if 12.9 would ever cause me an issue, i'm not sure. Impression I get is no, in my use case it won't be a problem. I have new bolts so that it ticks that box and keeps everyone happy lol.

Yeah i'm more than happy with 8.8 / 10.9. Pic of the CCM chapter I have in stock, I have the whole chapter somewhere as LVVTA had it available at some point for download. http://iforce.co.nz/i/zn4shv1p.bc0.jpg The nylocs were holding the brake rotor to the hub, so a bit toasty, so out they go.