Bling

How much point is there actually having a brace like that? Does the whole car flex that much? Probably don't need to tag them in here, they frequent often enough [ling]you're modifying the structure of the vehicle so my guess is needs a cert[/ling]

Crikey. I mean it could be multiple things, but battery swap is 5 minutes job even if you're a Spanners Watson on the tools.

No issues, usually lots of alternative options available on there too.

https://drivetribe.com/p/standard-ryco-oil-filters-vs-ryco-QSyD19l9QyyJ2PzJEilr0g?iid=FjZ7LEqdQXydDmLVyplcIA I can understand 15,000km on a relatively new car. But I wouldn't put on some fancy filter in my old shitbox and run it for 15,000km. I tend to grab Denso or similar units for dollars when making Rockauto orders.

Have another battery you can try in it? I always go for battery first as it's always the first thing to fail for me. I have one on the bench currently that has dropped at least one cell.

Don't recall seeing this in here https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/t790916354

Pretty good odds.

If you have storage elsewhere, I wouldn't leave appliances on site. Shit used to go missing up here all the time from sites.

Looking good man. Is this getting pushed along quicker due to plans to move up north? Don't forget that area behind / to the side of the gas cylinders needs to be sealed completely to stop any potential airflow.

Panel / rubber hammer did cross my mind, if that works then i'll do that. Just thought the roller may stop the guard pulling in a bit as the inner section shortens. Will put a straight edge on the arch and give it a try. Cheers

What car are you talking about and why do you want ITB's? If you just want sound put a poddy on Anyone successfully used one of these turds to fold up a spot welded wheel arch? Talking exterior panel is spot welded to the inner fender every 50mm or so. Hoping to just ease the fold from being horizontal up to vertical without the arch shape changing. Folded section will be shorter than external lip, so wondering if easing it slowly with the tool will provide enough stretch to not change factory line. Alternative is pie slicing the flange and rewelding it back together. Not even sure on the legality of that come cert time. Although it would work, it's a lot of work. Using the below tool would save a lot of work though. So just wondering if people have had much success with them. In before use a baseball you pussy.

The new system seems like a good improvement that will reduce the ability for people to guess if the car is still running as per cert. For those times you don't have coverage, print it out as mentioned above if you are that concerned you will be unfairly treated for driving in a legal manner.

Mega slammed and certed? Most likely modified since cert lol. Unless it's on bags. Plenty of details aren't on the old cert plates, not a new situation really.

Yeah could have been a good plan. Don't really want to invest more than I need to at this stage though. Engine conversion should be pretty easy to get legal at later date though.

Reckon, the gift that keeps on giving. Off to pull the water pump off again, woo.

Still chipping away on this fuck. Removed the carb the other day and had local workshop look it over for me. Main jet is pretty corroded so not sure how well it will run, or for how long, but YOLO. Reason I had it looked at was due to sitting for so long she was a bit gummed up and so wouldn't idle properly and wouldn't start without kick in the dick. Installed the carb today and it now fires off the key no worries, doesn't run that great, but will stay running. Win some lose some, i'm hopeful it's now just down to having a bunch of vacuum lines not connected and no air filter at all. Coolant has started to leak in a couple of places, one of which is behind the water pump, under the carb. So yeah a right PITA to get to. Tomorrows job will be the remove half the front of the engine to remove the water pump to try fix that. It's also leaking on a hose at the rear, so will try find a hose that will sort that. Gave it another tickle up alignment wise and it's looking a lot better. Todays plan was to drive around the block sans windscreen, previously mentioned water leaks killed that idea. Replaced the diff and gearbag fluid recently, neither of which looked that dirty, if I exclude the drain plugs (pics to follow). Had a few leaks on the gearbag, so got up and personal with it to find out why. Speedo drive thread had a massive cut mark on a 45 degree angle, so was never going to seal well. The bracket that holds the speedo drive was also MIA. Read the Toyota manual and noticed there was supposed to be one so made on up to suit. Cleaned the threads as best I could and goo'd everything together with some non setting gasket stuff. So far so good. Nothing much to add really, still on the list is windscreen install and proper alignment. Pretty good odds the wheel arches are both going to need a bash, which is something I wanted to avoid. But at this point I don't care about going beyond the point of no return. So will probably level the car up a bit before alignment and worry about clearance at cert time. Will then discuss best way to go about that as i'm not sure. Pics. Gearbag filler plug, after initially seeing it I figured i'd be welding a nut on it to get it off, but it JUST came off before becoming further chewed up. Quite impressive, not sure what was bashed on this previously. Luckily I had a supply of dirt cheap rockauto sump plugs on hand. So most things got new drain plugs and washers. Fresh fluids, VMX big boy was from when I had a starlet, circa ~12 years ago. I knew i'd need it one day... Gearbag or diff drain plug, I forget which but they both looked similar. Before / after. Carb on car so I could plumb it back up right and on bench. Handy having another car with the same setup, I managed to find a few hoses in the wrong locations. So much unnecessary BS hosing. Will google for a supply of vacuum hose and run hoses between locations that have none. Can get rebuild kits online buy the looks, so if I find it runs like a bag of dicks after connecting up 100% of the vacuum lines, i'll look in to that. So long as it runs good enough to get through cert process, that can be a future problem.

Same tyres on both sized rims? I had RE002 on my ae111 205/40/17 and they stuck like shit on a blanket rail. Tyre quality is probably at least as important as size.

You can't get decent tyres for snow tyre money. Save up and get something decent wet / dry. Snow driving will be like 1% of the time, so not worth dedicating much towards. Even free snow tyres are a bad deal.

Its that naturally occurring oil film on them that stops them rusting in the rain. Just had a bit too much on my plate / no OS car on the road right now. Decent turn out for the weather!

Will try give that a hoon Wednesday. Gave mixture screw a quick look tonight and seemed to flow ok. Will put some cleaner down it and give it another go. Thanks.

Will give that a go, cheers

Thanks will check it out.

Ah, forgot to put those deets in. Engine is Toyota 3AU 1500c, carb is factory. It has a bunch of emissions junk that makes locating things rather frustrating. I'll look into where the idle circuit lives and see about inspecting it, cheers.

So the project hasn't been running for a while, it seemed to run ok when parked up, puhuhu. I have no idea with carbs, so will post some symptoms and maybe someone can point me in right direction. It doesn't appear to like to start by itself, but start ya bastard will get it started and it runs fine. Runs fine about (and above) around 1500rpm, it won't idle and quickly dies. Google suggests, vacuum leak / plugs / a million things. Where is a good place to start? It seems to run fine, just not low in the revs. Fuel seems to be fine as supply is good and it will run forever if I keep the revs up. I daresay it needs a good tune up, but taking it to local garage isn't possible in current state. I'm happy to chequebook this problem as I have zero time and patience currently. I feel like it could just be something gummed up that operates the low idle perhaps. But if vacuum leak is the first port of call, i'll start there. Thanks chaps.

A good plan B then at least. Depends how keen you are, i'd probably give the whole thing a sand. Haven't done a job like that, but have chased my tail trying to feather edges before and giving up and taken the whole thing back to nothing.