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Bling

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Posts posted by Bling

  1. Yeah one of those helmets would do the trick for sure. I just rolled 18V fan blowing all the goodies out of the car and outside the environment. Can't really justify such luxury when I only weld once a year on average.

  2. Pretty sure any EV 3501kg or heavier will still be exempt too. 

    Personally, i'm just going to install a massive coil under my Leaf for charging, then install some wireless bits. 

    Quote

    Battery electric vehicles (BEVs)

    Powered exclusively by electricity, and plugs in to charge. 

    I will then be exempt too. 

    I just tried to pay for RUC and you can't until April. Was only a practice run for late May, but thought i'd see what it says.

    • Like 4
    • Haha 1
  3. None would be my guess. I think I've seen mention of no RUC for <1000kg EV so probably same for petrol. My guess is they'll take ages to sort RUC for everyone so you should be good. Why they didn't just copy paste for all vehicles I don't know. Such a mixed bag when all vehicles use the roads the same.

    Only have to buy RUC by 31st of May too, so won't be doing it anytime soon. That's how I read it anyway.

  4. Missing my point really. You are typically limited to 50kW draw at most chargers. So add to that the small battery capacity in a Leaf, even more so a worn out one. And charge time to hit 80% isn't long. 

    Problem is, if all of the misinformation goes unchecked, it just drives more EV hate. Like you wanting special chargers for cars you don't like. Anyone can hog the charger, a typical leaf won't take longer to charge than most other EVs. 

    So yeah I will put money on my Leaf charging faster than anything with a 60kWh battery or larger, at your typical charger which, in my area, maxes at 50kW. Maybe your area is all 350kW big boys.

    My total DC charging time is 28 minutes in the last five months, so I don't think it's me hogging them. Too expensive to hog one even just for fun lol.

    What battery size was that EK?

    My leaf is now ~15kWh, I never take it below 20%. If I was to charge 20-80% I would need 9kWh. So around 30 minutes at my reduced rate of just over 20kW. Best case others can charge at 2.5x that at my local chargers. So 22kWh or higher charge needed will take longer than me. Yet in your world I need a special charger lol. See how that doesn't add up yet? Hate old EVs if you like, but let's not pretend it's based on the fact they take longer to charge if they are being charged considerately like everyone should. We know how people are though, so that will never happen.

     

    Tl;Dr

    Old EVs charge fast enough and offer great acceleration, smoother driving and a quieter environment to commute in than other options. For less money. They aren't for everyone though.

    • Like 2
    • Thanks 1
  5. You'll always get some wanting to get that last bit of range. But for the majority of cases, a Leaf will charge faster than whatever you were / are driving. So maybe it's YOU who needs the special charger lol. I haven't seen anyone going for that 100% fill yet. Mainly people just parking their EV in the park because it's close to the door and not even plugging in. Why not plan ahead with your range? I've never needed to plug in publicly to get some more range, just done it because why not. That and to check my DC charging actually works since I don't use it.

    Just up the charge cost after 80%, that will stop people doing it. Although I can stop mine at 80% and so it will still hog the charger if I lock the cable.

    • Like 1
  6. 54 minutes ago, ajg193 said:

    Heck that's expensive. At what point does it make someone an inconsiderate prick when their worn out old car is blocking a charger for a long time due to reduced charge acceptance?

    Yeah 80c/ kWh, so a worst case scenario. As for blocking the charger, just as likely to be X, Y, Z electric car parked there hogging the spot. A Tesla is going to take longer to charge than my leaf at 50kW. Cost wise it would currently be a little over half the price of driving my petrol car. Add RUC and about same price. I always charge at home though for max savings.

  7. That one looks to be working at least. The closest one to me that is free (not that the one pictured is, sharn ahead), is always broken... go figure. Always says its live and available and has a 1/10 score on the plugshare app. It's annoying as its at the warehouse so I can easily kill half an hour in there and get half a fill up for free.

    The pay ones are always good to go. $3-3.50ish for ~30km for me. I have two transactions around that price because it tends to put in 4-4.5kWh in the time it takes me to grab something in supermarket and be on my way. I can only get sub 50% of what the pump can pump though because worn out battery life. Can get free at my local supermarket, but need to BYO cable. Given the cost of the cable it would take me a long time to recoup costs due to onboard charger being limited on AC compared to DC which is straight in the veins. 

    • Like 2
  8. If a HKS coilover'd Note is a shitbox, boy have I got the wrong idea. Might have to keep the wheels unless you want to pay Clints beer tab for a while. They look good to me, maybe a new colour would change your mind? Are you sure it's not a midlife crisis car? 

    • Like 4
  9. I know we think it's absurd, but there are plenty of people out there for which car depreciation isn't even on their radar. I mean it's probably just one of their fleet or cars they buy because why not.

    If you asked me 5-10 years ago if i'd happily drive around a car with an 80km range, i'd have slapped you silly. What a stupid pointless car, still seen that way by most lol.

    • Like 2
  10. I mean it's MG... how does it compare to the petrol variants? I would assume they are all equally dogshit build quality. All of those things I would expect to be shit / completely missing when the price is so low. You're probably right though that part of it comes down to getting that bottom price. Which maybe they don't have to push as hard to achieve on the petrol versions. While my Leaf misses out on many things, the newer ones cover most of the new fancy options. I still have all heated seats, steering wheel and the likes. Build quality seems pretty decent too except for a few silly build designs. Like the fact water can pool in the front top hat area and so the nuts rust to the shock pretty badly. Interior wise it seems the same as similar aged petrol cars, nothing is wearing badly. Vehicles like the MG are a lose lose really. It's cheap to buy, but you have to deal with poor build quality it's whole life, then you get the barbed pineapple when you sell it. So I feel like buy in cost is less, but overall cost at the end is more than a higher priced vehicle.

    More vehicle options will be good though. 

    You mention 911, but i'm not sure you'd want to if the Taycan is anything to go by, the is depreciation is amazing... Maybe that is due to it costing 250k to start with. But the 2021's seem to be listed for 150k, yikes. I'm sure there are a few models, but still, that's nuts.

  11. Might have just been bad luck? My inverter welder must be ~10 years old now, doesn't get thrashed but has always done a good job for me on MIG stuff.

    Aren't both those inverter? Might have wrong link posted. 

    • Like 1
  12. I'm not talking lithium ion specifically, lots of flavours out there. With ever improving capacity vs weight and cost. ICE has had a few years to improve, modern day electric cars still have plenty of scope for improvement I think. Smaller more powerful more efficient motors. Smaller, lighter, more energy dense battery packs. Then the more budget cars will get yesterday's bits which will end up relatively cheap to produce compared to whatever the latest tech is

    • Like 4
  13. Which corners are we talking about? Ones that differ from other cars or?

    As for battery cost, following the same path as solar panels. The longer you wait, the more efficient they are and the cheaper they are.

    • Like 1
  14. No idea what the issue is, but i'd at least start with a flush and see how much crud comes out. I've had multiple rear brake balance problems in the past and the specs of dirt in the proportioning valves that caused it were pretty small. Doesn't sound like you have that valve, but i'm just mentioning it as it build up caused lots of headaches. So any build up could be contributing. Someone else will have had this issue before and comment i'm sure. But with old shit, and lack of fluid changes, build up occurs and can cause issues. Just something to start with anyway. I think the cars I had issues with were split diagonally for braking. Current old cars have a tee on the diff to split the single line from front. If no crud in the line to the rear and no build up in the rear tee (could be worth whipping off and cleaning out). Then yeah I guess something is up with master as that is the only other part in the system.

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