Jeffs_Emporium

Pulled out 1geu to go to @Hachi-ichi have a hell of a mess to clean up in engine bay but thankfully no rust.

I saw this pretty sweet 130rs at the Prague Museum of Technology a few weeks back

I think this thread is for 3 chassis ago. Yeah twin headlight with painted bumpers has always been the dream

Raised it back up to get the outer sills painted white and straightened up and a few bubbles around rear guards seam tidied up. Struts have been crack tested, camber adjustable rear subframe ready to go in with f series 3.7 clutch pack lsd. Just need to fix various oil leaks and fit 205/60 tyres somehow and then try my luck at getting it legal

Resurrection from the 8th page! Lowered the front some more and was rewarded with a pink sticker in march Sold the watanabes and replaced with 7/7.5j focus spoke

Can anyone reccomended an Auckland company that offer NDT with relevant certification for welded stub axles that arent SGS (they apparently no longer do cash sales and I'm not opening an account for something I use once every 6 years)

I'd look for split hoses on trans and check fluid level. I thought mine in gx61 was toasted until i remembered to check fluid with engine running They seem bulletproof as i drove it for ages like that.....

https://www.facebook.com/groups/550144271739771/permalink/2187705217983660/?sale_post_id=2187705217983660 About as dodgy as it gets

Negative. Trying to organize it to put it through but the standard rear subframe are not camber adjustable so I have about 5 degrees negative camber at desired height

Grade 4.5 with 24,000kms example at auction currently - minus the supercharger!

Have you considered importing a tidy one instead of trying to repair all the imperfections of this one? You'd be suprised at how cheap they can be landed- probably the cost of a paint job alone tbh

Do I need to go through any design approval processes or crack testing to make my Toyota mark ii gx61 IRS rear subframe camber adjustable - similar to this method- they are toe adjustable on the inner trailing arm mount but not camber adjustable on the outer so it's just replicating what's already there but making it stronger

Have purchased some coilovers for my Toyota that have been welded to spindles as per the rules but I dont have the supporting paperwork for crack testing. I'm i able to just get them crack tested again now?

Cut the shift gaiter washer off a legacy shift knob and snagged the rubber accordion boot from the soarer since it was from something else anyway both are temporary items untill I have a leather boot made. This pic also really brings out the colour difference from centre console to dash

Sorry to see you having such a battle with the carbs and very suprised you're having problems with that sensor as it was used very few times from new before that car was parted

Finished the manual conversion bar reverse switch and centre console this afternoon. Excuse the gearknob, somehow it's all I have in the shed after playing with dirty datsuns for a few years! I Decided I'll get the engine bay painted when I twincam swap it in the next month or two so just gave it a quick degrease and wacked it in. Retained the engine loom from the car as these engine looms have the wiper loom integrated and my fancy import wipers have a soft stop to tuck under bonnet/valance so had to piss around disconnecting crumbly 35 year old injector plugs with sausage fingers.For other people searching front half of driveshaft for auto is 598mm flange to tip of yoke manual is 698mm. Watanabe centre caps and valves finally arrived from Rhdjapan. Valves will go on with a tyre change at some point.

Gave everything a good clean yesterday after maximum road tripping for the annual japanese old car meet in Auckland today. Fitted this wee 300mm sportline I purchased from upgarage Came home motivated and ripped the engine and box out to do manual swap since I'm still on holiday. The hydraulic lifters in this are doing my head in with their loud tapping so I'm swapping in another 1ge that's connected to the w55 I pulled from a gx60 temporarily untill I have a twincam engine ready to go. Quite possibly the filthiest engine bay or any car I've owned with oil of some sort everywhere on drivers side of engine bay and clean bare metal exposed on bottom of firewall so tomorrow's mission is to deal to that. You can also see my crude bracketry made to support twin headlights and grill which I will revisit at some point! Peep the gz10 lurking in the back ground - will get it's own thread when things get moving

While up at dads he walked me through giving one of my 1ggeu heads a bit of a tidy up. I pulled the valves out, all twenty f#@king four, then pissed four hours away sitting them on a wire wheel on a bench grinder cleaning all the carbon off. Next I degreased everything and waterblasted the bare head before pulling out old valve seals and replacing with new ($100 Ebay full gasket kit) Reassembled all the valves after lapping them in at some point, torqued the cams down and checked clearance to shims in buckets and all within spec, put my fancy wrinkle painted cam covers on and called it a day (better part of 3 days work) This was a bit of a low budget refurb to get one of these engines in and going for Toyota fest which is sometime around the end of March. Was also good to learn how properly disassemble and label everything to go back in order to the point where I'm fairly confident doing the two others I have in stock which I'll have resurfaced and acid dipped professionally.

Have been smashing around the upper north island in this for the last month burning through 50 litres fuel every 300-350kms Took the opportunity to use dads hoist while I was up there to do the tricky bits on my manual conversion. Removed the foot handbrake pedal and fitted a normal handbrake - still reach for the bloody release lever every time - and fitted the clutch pedal and swapped brake pedal

Different gear on drivers should still be available new via Toyota and it sounds like you need a toyota 90° adapter to fix the sharp turn which come on most old auto boxes (will grab a photo when I have my car on hoist later today)

@shandawg whipped up this sweet pair of camber plates So I chucked the coilovers in The rears I dont have the adjustable height perch with the springs as they didnt fit the solid rear end car they came with so they were misplaced so I'm stuck with this height of just the bc 8kg spring with body adjustable shock wound down to suit. I've been caught out swapping front struts before with there being a variation of brake caliper spacing so I was sure to keep the brakes that went with the bc spindles- I was glad as they ended up being different even though they're from the same year vehicle but nz vs jdm model.... Camber plates fitted End result is an even 90mm to sills front and rear. A nice smooth ride with no tyre rub or scraping. Will have to find a different offset 7.5j wheel for the rear as with fixing the rear camber necessary for cert and the current 185/60/14 not even being a legal size for 7.5j I'll be hitting the guards for sure. Currently theres about 2mm clearance from factory guard line to tyre

Noise maker starter pack from @be4ver Apparently these trust headers hang quite low beneath chassis rail where they join to rest of exhaust so will be getting chopped and re-coated.

Working on getting this a fresh warrant so the fiddling can begin- failed on a small rust patch behind rear bumper, frayed seatbelt and spare tyre not secure- should be in for recheck tomorrow Now have a complete manual conversion attached to a quieter 1ge, bc gold coilovers already welded to cert spec that require crack testing and some watanabe centre caps and valves on the way from Rhd japan. The mx73 bcs have the camber plates orientated a different way and slightly different spacing as shown in parts car they came on so I'm having some cut to suit my strut towers to avoid nasty hole filing Had a friend tidy up the manual pedals- I actually bought two whole cars for the manual pedals which turned out to be bodged. Thankfully @Barnz.NZ had an old contact who had a correct set sitting there

Went a bit loopy and bought THREE 1gge and obligatory trust headers. Although the current single cam has a fresh cambelt and waterpump its has horrendously loud lifters and paired with the slipping auto trans makes for pretty slow going. First engine is off to the reconditioners to get bearings and gaskets and clean 30years of grease from it then it will be paired with a w55 I grabbed to swap all in one go. Being facelift it has a smaller t series 6.7" IRS rear diff but I purchased an entire f series 7.5" subframe so that will go in at some point with a lsd of some variety too!