flyingbrick

I am curious (because i have limited materials knowledge) as to how they choose aramid fibre over carbon fibre when manufacturing this duct work. There has to be more to their thinking than simply wanting to add some color contrast to the otherwise black and blue engine bay.

The very obvious path forward is solid mounting of the engine. 

3d print some mount stuffers.

I had no idea about victron blue, a bit jelly now that I got a CTEK when I could be geeking out a little more.

I do have one of those bluetooth battery monitors which I have used on occasion to monitor batteries that I was load testing. That would be great for testing that a charger is working adequately (no idea if the units load would affect a smart chargers performance or tests though)

Could be faulty unit but impossible to really know.... I have had many chargers and none were faulty, but I have about ten faulty batteries here, so that seems the most statistically obvious thing to blame.

She ain't no custom bobber, but I still get a bit of satisfaction out of this.

Another KG saved off the front end. The factory top yoke is a two piece unit with a bottom plate that ties the forks together and then a top plate that holds the handlebars. The two items are bolted together with big bolts and isolation bushes (I don't seem to have pics of the bottom plate)

So that's now been replaced with the new billet aluminium item which is one piece so saves just over 1kg and looks cool too.

That's well over 2kg saved off the front when you include the CF bars.

The new top yoke also has another benefit. The factory setup does not allow any lowering of the bike by sliding the tubes upwards. The new yoke has relocated bar mounts and holes right through, so to increase steering response I have lowered the front of the bike 7mm. This moves weight to the front and steepens the fork angle.

Some guys lift the rear 1 or 2 inches to do the same thing, but I'd hate to increase the seat height and make it harder to handle with legs down.

Also fitted a hydraulic brake switch banjo bolt on the rear as I had no switch since doing the rearsets.

Yeah I don't think you are waxing quite enough, and pva is a huge safety net. It's biggest pro is that it dissolves in water so I'd your wax ain't good enough and your parts still stuck- you just soak the whole lot in water till it pops free.

Oh man, so so so much of all this is true. 

I SO OFTEN want something only to find it's simply not available in NZ. 

Shops seem to carry dick all inventory. Look at every motorcycle shop that has a website full of goods for sale, but nothing in stock. Everything gets ordered from a supplier somewhere in NZ or aus. 

The trouble I went through just to find a clutch seal kit for the busa!!!! Fuck me dead.

When I made my titanium rear sets basically nobody in NZ wanted to cut parts that small, and none could be fucked supplying the titanium. China had better communication, actually wanted my money and did the work instantly. Oh and they even called me Sir!

WTF, man theres many people that would LOVE that ute in that condition. No where near end of life.

that looks so good dude.

I'm no electrical engineer, take this with a grain of salt, I'd have thought the vehicles battery would do a very good job of smoothing voltage across the entire vehicle? or @Roman do you think even the increase to 14.5v during charge is likely too much of a fluctuation? If you need more smoothing just throw in a small bank of capacitors to take out higher frequency oscillations

thats a great idea, my first thought was "nah the factory ECU wont be able to send a compatible signal......WAIT A MINUTE"

22 hours ago, Roman said:

Dumb fuck AI doesnt know that echo has a good drag coefficient! 

Thats my fault. The story lacked depth so I said it was not aerodynamic LOL

This continues to be super inspirational.

I'd been looking at streamliner bodies for the Hayabusa haha. Can't say I have seen one of those on a bike in NZ

(Good reasons for it too, like being gay, but I still want it)

the T32 has the side grip of the S22 nut a nicer center for straight roads and more mileage it's a good sport touring tire

I have the s22 on the busa and it's supposed to he an extremely good tire. Most busa riders here seem to use this or the touring equivalent (has a harder center, good if you don't corner as much and find you flatten the centre)

I don't push it as hard as some, but it's definitely good peace of mind Incase I was to go in too hot and have to really push it over. Those sides are sticky!!

4 hours ago, tortron said:

By eye, then hammer it home from what I have seen of the builds on YouTube (hold it with your bare feet so it doesn't move around) 

I'd probably rig something up with v blocks and a surface plate I guess 

Was chatting about assembly of Aprilia rs250 cranks yesterday. A guy bought two of them NEW and he said you could see the misalignment by eye. he tapped them around with a hammer to get them straight.

Doesn't sound right to me but what do I know.

Happy as I had been wanting a one piece top yoke to replace the HEAVY factory two piece rubber bushed unit for six months. I found one of these (no longer made) on ebay but the guy wouldn't post to NZ and the asking cost plus the estimated youshop cost was huge. 

I asked again over the weekend and came to a very good arrangement, so it's now on the way to me.

This will save over 1kg (could be closer to 1.5kg) and is probably the nicest looking option that has ever been available for the bike. 

I'll throw some titanium bolts in there from Ali express too.

16 hours ago, Adoom said:

Well shit. My expensive $800 Optrel panoramaxx 2.5 helmet I bought in 2019 doesn't charge anymore. The battery is supposed to "never need replacing", so is not user accessible. The helmet still works while the charging cable is plugged in, but totally dead when unplugged.

I've optimistically emailed the supplier in the hope that it's a known fault and covered by some warranty. I really can't justify buying a new one every three years. 

Damn that was my dream helmet, came very close to getting one.

Just open the thing up and solder in a new battery. It's not user replaceable but that just means you need to use screw drivers and soldering irons

You need ten five but fucked if I can find his username with the @ thing

On 30/11/2022 at 06:27, SOHC said:

God only knows, he would never give out that information, all I know is he is from snells beach way.

Hope he is doing alright

surely I have some bone pieces hiding away in there. or in my teeth.

On 01/08/2022 at 18:54, governorsam said:

Found one.

pm me your address.

brought the same kit during my apprenticeship, many many moons ago.

another one turned up on trademe a few years ago, and the latch wasn’t broken.

still use it all the time, good bit of kit.

happy to complete your set.

If you have a socket set and you replace the case, and then over 20 years you lose every socket and replace them all one by one... And one day you break the ratchet and you kid loses an extension, so you replace them with new, is it still the same socket set?

https://youtu.be/nLuceQHLkuU

1 hour ago, Roman said:

Holy shit! hahaha.

Unreal
 

Yeah. I actually just read through the comments to find specs. It's not actually stock, has a similar amount done to mine. Light weight wheel, alloy subframe, exhaust etc.. but also lowered. 

However stock for these usually just means unopened motor and no gas or turbo (etc)

I have been offered a lowering strap for mine- I think it's basically a ratchet strap that pulls the front down and removes all of your droop.