flyingbrick

Wow man, looks great!

15 minutes ago, anglia4 said:

I can't make sense of this?

New Plymouth and Horopito are not on the same path to anywhere, except the path from Horopito to New Plymouth...

lol, thats quite funny. I had to have a smash on google maps to confirm 

Forgot to mention that.

In my situation later model zx discs were the right diameter and fit to these wheels. I just had to add 1mm spacers.

My only point is- sometimes pays to look outside of the box

On 06/05/2023 at 21:46, Snorkpipe said:

Has anyone here ever put lightweight wheels onto a bike? I have a 96 GSXR750 track bike which I occasionally run in pre95, and the wheels are as heavy as anchors. Would love to hear anyone's real world experience. Can't decide whether to look at Carbon Fibre, Magnesium, forged Aluminium, or just a later set of stock GSXR wheels. Any option would need discs and sprocket carrier to match

I have swapped my front wheel on gen2 busa with one off a zx1000rr (or something) and saved a little over 600grams. It made a HUGE difference to how agile the bike feels- need to get my ass into gear and so the rear too 

My advice- don't limit yourself by brand or model. I went with Kawasaki wheels because I found a set cheap and then compared bearings and seals etc (I'd done this with lots of wheels). Turned out that bearing and seal ID's were identical to the busa wheels- then it was just a few basic spacers to make them fit.

This is preferable to me using other Suzuki wheels which may have different bearing and seal sizes!!

OK, broken housing ideas time.

My vote is as follows.

• bolt housing into place with single remaining fastener.
• Take a pair of good vicegrips, use these over the housing flange and that tab of unbroken steel to clamp things together.
• Weld up the jaws of the vicegrips so that they cannot come lose.
• optional: if you'd like the repair to be more professional, once the jaws are welded solid you may use an angle grinder or gas axe to cut the rest of the vicegrips away so that only the clamped and welded jaws remain.

Or, yeah i guess if you couldn't be bothered brazing up the thread and you don't have a welder then you could drill right down through a bit larger and use a longer bolt with a nut?

On 02/12/2022 at 13:04, tortron said:

You can have this sidchome 1/2" breaker bar and sidchrome 21mm if you want

I dug it out of the ground at pickapart.  Very rusty. Suit you. The socket is probably ok

 

 

understand this was an old post @tortron but you'd think with a name like Sidchrome they wouldn't be made with such shit chrome lol.

yeah have been looking at one very similar on trademe, comes with bottle etc.

both orange anyway... if that matters.

37 minutes ago, Nominal said:

Should be easy enough to pick up a used one? You wouldn't be getting any warranty on a new one from Aus anyway.

You'd think so?!!!!!! I have just been searching on trademe, not much worth buying (comparatively huge money for steaming piles of shit, although i do have my eye on a few there that could be worthwhile depending on how bidding pans out.

take a look at what is available, maybe I'm just a cabbage at searching trademe (as well as everything else)

11 minutes ago, mjrstar said:

It seems DC machines have become quite competitively priced, but AC/DC not so much. I have had my Tig for a few years, and it was around $1700 with a bit of a hook-up price but not a mad deal. 

I was bout to tell you to stop complaining and that the cost etc.. but whoa the model I have ain't 1700 bucks no more..

 

https://www.saecowilson.co.nz/product/wia-weldarc-200i-ac-dc-arc-tig-welder/

 

Maybe try leaning on you local trade zone, to see if they have any deals going on excel arc.

 

 

yeap!!! I cannot believe the pricing. 

I think im going to end up buying from australia as even with shipping I'll be saving 30%

Hi all.

Right so its been 6 years now since I actually worked professionally with welders. I am now wanting to buy myself an AC/DC Tig but cant believe the prices now being asked - unless my memory is way way out, it seems to be that prices have doubled?! or perhaps the cheaper options are just no longer available.

What budget options exist? I have to prioritize spending pretty heavily so I'm definitely not looking for trade quality.

edit. seems fucked. I can EASILY find an ACDC tig welder in australia for 700NZD and they dont look like the worst things you could own. Here in NZ you are looking at double that?! 

You can do anything you could possibly dream up (If you are good enough at programming and life)

If you had a vehicle with ABS wheel speed sensors you could add traction control, anti wheelie etc etc for like $25 and 500 hours of research and code writing.

ARgh, this is a great thread. Me and @Roman have spent a fair bit of time fooling around with this stuff (I'm a novice, David is god-spec)

You have some relatively easy simple options for gauge display- check out Realdash and Torque Pro. Both options are relatively DIY (Cheap) and can display any gauge you want, in real time, and on any decent android device or windows tablet (Or even a Pi with display). They are geared toward OBD2 but you can (This is what I have done and had working on the bench) have the vehicles raw sensor information collected by an arduino and then sent to the display device as basic serial data- its all relatively easy but you just need to be ready to spend days researching your own specific applications integration as it is totally DIY. I believe torque pro even does data logging!

This has been my world for a while, so heres a quick pro's and cons list.

realdash/torque pro:

YAY's

• Very low barrier to entry- anyone can download the realdash software onto a device and start playing around (I have no experience with torque pro but believe it is similar)
• Very inexpensive
• Very good looking dash displays are achievable relatively easily.
• Tablets/phones are very reliable, very robust, resistant to dust, vibration, moisture etc and have good brightness for use outside
• portable- you can take the device inside for setup and then put it in the car for use

NAH's

• These solutions are DIY and require a large amount of research, soldering, thinking etc and are definately not "plug and play"
• tablets/phones are slow to boot up so not suitable as the primary dash in a daily driver or anything you want to just hop into and hoon. You CAN set them up to cold start into one particular app but this could take a minute
• very little tech support when things dont work (each software's forum is great though)
  
   

Unfortunately the phone with realdash didn't work out the way that I wanted for my bike, mostly due to boot time and how messy the start/shut down sequence is (And there is absolutely no reasonable way around this). I'm now looking at HMI screens (like nextion) because they boot so much faster, but this leads to a far more complex programming experience and the learning curve is bloody steep. BUT yeah, these issues might not be deal breakers for a race car and there are lots of folk on youtube making them work with great success.

And of course there are many off the shelf options for logging and displaying of data, one of those would be nice but theres no way i can personally spend that kinda money.

why dont you try raise compression?

I would like to see the centre of the bonnet cut out. Six trumpets poking out would be awesome!

Could you turn each row of throttles 180 so that the servo hangs off the other side- then stand them up more vertical so that the air doesn't have to do such a sharp turn after the throttle?

Or, could you do a one piece lower manifold that manages the cross over, then mount the throttles basically flat as soon as they have finished crossing over?

edit:
You appear to be moving too quickly on this, so i'd like to add more complexity. Thanks.

2 hours ago, shrike said:

I'd be hesitant to slot flywheel bolt holes, could probably get them welded up and then redrilled though.

How much shorter does the rad need to be for the hoses to line up? Could be worth seeing what other models may fit

Sad that I have been beaten to it, but yeah. The bolts provide a clamping force regardless of if slotted. The spigot in the center needs to remain a circle though (lol)

and yes, no to welding as the HAZ could be more detrimental to structure than any slotting.

yeah but you are a sicko 

Finally got the bike totally buttoned up and out for a test ride. HUGE difference to how willing it is to change direction- really impressive how a tiny alteration (I thought 7mm down up front was strangely specific) can change so much.

Also gave it a wash, clay bar (It pays not to get confused) and wax. 

Hi Zach.

Cool Bike.

The bike is a pretty well sorted package right now- reliable, on its way to being legal and its brakes and suspension will match the engines performance. Keep enjoying it and get something faster when you are ready - a GSXR250 doesn't cost that much in the scheme of things and comes complete with better components in a well sorted package that the GN will never match (even after tons of mods)

Also. Thankyou for including the area of the valve stem in your calculations @Roman, your attention to detail is much appreciated.

2 hours ago, ThePog said:

I quite often drop oily engine parts directly onto the glass of my A3 printer/scanner, with a 300mm ruler laying beside it.

You can then import the scan, draw a 300mm line, scale and rotate to suit, then you are away.

I have done the pic method a few times as well, its just not quite as accurate.

this is exactly what I do. That or a photo with a ruler. 

I also utilize works printer for getting scaling etc right. Most printers seem to be extremely accurate when printing things 1:1 scale, and they can do it in a few seconds, so with this sump flange I'd just have printed it out and put on top of the sump to check.

@Roman since we are going to be neighbors soon- more than happy to use works printer and bring you home stuff if needed, we even have a3 paper.

Hi David.

 RIP blueballs.

I'm excited to see what happens with the carina now! 

Please get that X member cast. Lets build our own little foundry!!!

Those are all pretty good points.