Jump to content

flyingbrick

Members
  • Posts

    11651
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

Everything posted by flyingbrick

  1. Those are all pretty good points.
  2. I am curious (because i have limited materials knowledge) as to how they choose aramid fibre over carbon fibre when manufacturing this duct work. There has to be more to their thinking than simply wanting to add some color contrast to the otherwise black and blue engine bay.
  3. The very obvious path forward is solid mounting of the engine. 3d print some mount stuffers.
  4. She ain't no custom bobber, but I still get a bit of satisfaction out of this. Another KG saved off the front end. The factory top yoke is a two piece unit with a bottom plate that ties the forks together and then a top plate that holds the handlebars. The two items are bolted together with big bolts and isolation bushes (I don't seem to have pics of the bottom plate) So that's now been replaced with the new billet aluminium item which is one piece so saves just over 1kg and looks cool too. That's well over 2kg saved off the front when you include the CF bars. The new top yoke also has another benefit. The factory setup does not allow any lowering of the bike by sliding the tubes upwards. The new yoke has relocated bar mounts and holes right through, so to increase steering response I have lowered the front of the bike 7mm. This moves weight to the front and steepens the fork angle. Some guys lift the rear 1 or 2 inches to do the same thing, but I'd hate to increase the seat height and make it harder to handle with legs down. Also fitted a hydraulic brake switch banjo bolt on the rear as I had no switch since doing the rearsets.
  5. Yeah I don't think you are waxing quite enough, and pva is a huge safety net. It's biggest pro is that it dissolves in water so I'd your wax ain't good enough and your parts still stuck- you just soak the whole lot in water till it pops free.
  6. I'm no electrical engineer, take this with a grain of salt, I'd have thought the vehicles battery would do a very good job of smoothing voltage across the entire vehicle? or @Roman do you think even the increase to 14.5v during charge is likely too much of a fluctuation? If you need more smoothing just throw in a small bank of capacitors to take out higher frequency oscillations
  7. thats a great idea, my first thought was "nah the factory ECU wont be able to send a compatible signal......WAIT A MINUTE"
  8. Thats my fault. The story lacked depth so I said it was not aerodynamic LOL
  9. I asked chat gpt to write a story about your Prius engined eco and to base the story around the original fast and furious movie, but with sandwiches being stolen. Then told it to make it a rap. Listen up y'all, it's a story of a man named David, An undercover cop with a mission, to save the sandwiches, He needed a ride, something fast and reliable, So he took a Toyota Eco, and made it truly versatile, He swapped out the engine for a Prius, for efficiency, And 3D printed some parts, for added creativity, He painted it blue, the color of the ocean, It may not be aerodynamic, but it's got smooth motion, He entered the race scene, and made a name for himself, Beating all the competition, and putting them on the shelf, He infiltrated the crew, behind the thefts galore, But little did he know, his friend Dominic's at the core, The final race came, stakes high, tuna sandwiches on the line, David and his trusty ride, beat the criminals, it was a shine, He caught the bad guys, and saved the day, A true hero, in his own unique way. So remember, always trust your instincts and be aware, And never judge a car by its aerodynamics, but by its power to dare.
  10. This continues to be super inspirational. I'd been looking at streamliner bodies for the Hayabusa haha. Can't say I have seen one of those on a bike in NZ (Good reasons for it too, like being gay, but I still want it)
  11. the T32 has the side grip of the S22 nut a nicer center for straight roads and more mileage it's a good sport touring tire
  12. I have the s22 on the busa and it's supposed to he an extremely good tire. Most busa riders here seem to use this or the touring equivalent (has a harder center, good if you don't corner as much and find you flatten the centre) I don't push it as hard as some, but it's definitely good peace of mind Incase I was to go in too hot and have to really push it over. Those sides are sticky!!
  13. Was chatting about assembly of Aprilia rs250 cranks yesterday. A guy bought two of them NEW and he said you could see the misalignment by eye. he tapped them around with a hammer to get them straight. Doesn't sound right to me but what do I know.
  14. Happy as I had been wanting a one piece top yoke to replace the HEAVY factory two piece rubber bushed unit for six months. I found one of these (no longer made) on ebay but the guy wouldn't post to NZ and the asking cost plus the estimated youshop cost was huge. I asked again over the weekend and came to a very good arrangement, so it's now on the way to me. This will save over 1kg (could be closer to 1.5kg) and is probably the nicest looking option that has ever been available for the bike. I'll throw some titanium bolts in there from Ali express too.
  15. Damn that was my dream helmet, came very close to getting one. Just open the thing up and solder in a new battery. It's not user replaceable but that just means you need to use screw drivers and soldering irons
  16. You need ten five but fucked if I can find his username with the @ thing
  17. Yeah. I actually just read through the comments to find specs. It's not actually stock, has a similar amount done to mine. Light weight wheel, alloy subframe, exhaust etc.. but also lowered. However stock for these usually just means unopened motor and no gas or turbo (etc) I have been offered a lowering strap for mine- I think it's basically a ratchet strap that pulls the front down and removes all of your droop.
  18. Now I'm trawling the net for vids of this mad dog doing 8's
  19. Nah I need bigger balls and practice. There's people in the world that could do 8's on my bike in it's current state
  20. I think I included pics and maybe info on the Racebox Mini unit that I purchased on indigogo a few months ago. I have only just started using it. Great piece of kit, you can use it for recording any speed and distance measurements that you'd like. I have been practicing 0-100 and 60ft - Both are relatively embarrassing but it is super bloody fun stopping in the middle of a rural road (while on the way to work) and thrashing it off the line. I was initially measuring 0-100 only and was doing the bulk of it with the front off the ground for a best time of 3.6 seconds (no rollout correction). Recording 60 ft time showed that I'm simply not getting the clutch out and to full throttle fast enough so that has to be the focus now. Hopefully in the future I'll be confident enough to maybe run some 13's with @Roman at an OS drag day!
×
×
  • Create New...