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brocky41

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Everything posted by brocky41

  1. These were cheap - i picked them up for a mate who had got them off FB i think - lots of options
  2. Also good luck with finding taillights - i has to have mine rebuilt at autolights. Be very carefull with those rare rear windows too. A guy by the name of Aaron Anderson-hall on facebook has 2 one of which is my old one and I dont know whats happining with the other (parts for you I hope - or use yours as parts for it) I do miss this car - LD20 had little power but towed everything and never let us down
  3. What do the guys from JDM Legends use - I keep seeing them use cut woodgrain for all the dash parts in lush c10's etc
  4. Just a simple Deflate / Inflate lol. Theres an invisible shield on both cars so they dont cross breed haha
  5. Starting to clear out the shed enough to work on this - front seat and rails is my biggest hold up atm. Unloading the rest of the spares from inside the car and putting them on their own shelf.
  6. Hey im not really up with the play on these yet but I seem to have deluxe on the dash and 2 holes on the left below the boot - would this actually be a deluxe and was the green interior special / just an option. @66gt any ideas
  7. A few spares Interior Shot Might need a little rust work.
  8. So after a long weekend to Hawkes Bay and back with a lot of driving 1500KM's in 2 days (with 2days in the bay inbetween) I've finally got Grandads Mk1 Cortina home in Christchurch. This trip has been in the pipeline for around 5 years and wouldn't have happened without the help of a lot of people. Big thanks Lisa for coming on the trip and keeping me awake. Thanks to Mum and Dad for storing it and to dad and my brother in law Ian for cleaning it up and getting it going. (I drove it onto the trailer - the most its moved in 15 years). Also thanks to my bosses @ Maugers Rentals for one of our vans for the weekend - much appreciated. 'JANEE' is a keeper and I'll hopefully have it on the road again soon. Heres a few pics - It needs a bit of work but came with lots of spares. Looking for front seat/seats (in green if pos)
  9. Yea "Wals" 330 coupe is now in storage so at least its dry - further gone than in those pics from memory. @kirk28 those taillights look spectacular - are they all lights or just the corner ones still? Are you going to lower it? Jelly of the whole thing really. @73crownwagon - rust work / panel beating on the wagon? Plans?
  10. Na mine was this one - its still local and being refreshed (ie rust removal) I lol'd that the GT-TURBO sticker was backwards - then you knew what was following in the rear view mirror
  11. What about "Superturbo" lol - wish i had kept my LD20 R30 wagon now. Nice project - keep the updates coming.
  12. Wow nice work, I do like a good high revving V8 - please lift factory limiter a little
  13. Well it hasn't moved far yet - but less shit around it this visit. Dad has been busy rebuilding the brake department and also clutch master and slave. Next to drain the tank etc. Shit I might even be able to drive it onto the trailer in May. Cant wait to get this to Christchurch.
  14. On all my older glues in ones ive just used the heat gun to slowly heat the goo / sealant / screen - and with light pressure it releases. Been mostly cars that Ive ripped the hoot lining out of first cos the heatgun causes fires way to quick
  15. brocky41

    diesel spam

    RD'd are good at blowing heads. SD's while have no power will run forever - I cant choose which is worse.
  16. brocky41

    diesel spam

    Was that Rick - he loves his LD's
  17. brocky41

    diesel spam

    I remember talking to oil guys while i was at BNT - even full synthetic is not 100% synthetic unless it says its 100% synthetic. This write up from Motul is very good.... HOW IS MY OIL MADE? Engine oil is essentially made from two key elements. Engine oil starts with a “base stock” which essentially serves as the bulk of the oil. This can either be made from mineral oil (based from crude oil dug out of the ground) that has been refined into usable oil, or formulated from synthetic compounds into a lubricating fluid with the same viscosity as mineral oil. These base stocks are then enhanced with additives and detergents that take an engine oil’s capability from simple lubrication and allow it to cling to the surfaces of your engine. In doing so, as the oil flows through your engine, is also works by cleaning and protecting it from wear, oxidation, corrosion and the build-up of harmful sludge and deposits. When combined, these oils and additives are made to operate at the very high temperatures and pressures that arise in your engine, and vary in viscosity (the ease of how freely it flows) as your engine warms up. While that all sounds simple enough, many oil companies have simply added confusing marketing spins to their oil namesakes, which serve no real indicative purpose of what the base oil is comprised of. And here-in lies the source of much confusion. THE PROBLEM WITH ‘FULL SYNTHETIC’ OIL The main problem with oils is that there is no actual regulation for what comprises an oil, or what is required of an oil, for it to be classed “Full-Synthetic”. Fact is, in many cases, oils claimed to be fully synthetic are often made by highly refining and synthesising mineral oils to achieve a higher degree of purity than would otherwise have been achievable. Other times they may also be made using a large degree of actual synthetic oil, but are still not essentially “Full” synthetic by any means. They would more appropriately still be semi-synthetic oils. As you can imagine, it pays to check with the oil manufacturer on what the base stocks of their Fully Synthetic Oil are actually made of. A lot of the time, you’ll be quite surprised to learn that they are actually not fully synthetic oils at all in nature, only by marketing name. With the benefit of the doubt – it could well be 100% synthetic oil… but it could also be 90%, or 60%, or even 2%. In short, fully synthetic oil is a marketing term that in no way defines the quantity of synthetic content. 100% SYNTHETIC OIL In order to make higher quality oils, high-performance oil companies will essentially develop molecules from scratch, which are then synthesised and produced free of any mineral or crude oils. By doing this, the greatest advances in automotive oils are made, as new compounds and molecules are developed that are capable of greater lubrication, greater protection and higher resistance to pressure. This also means that companies can control the quality of every drop of oil in your bottle, as opposed to having to refine the quality of mineral base oils. And the best part is, there is no escaping this 100% Synthetic terminology with fancy or confusing marketing terms. If it is so-called such, it must be 100% Fully Synthetic by regulation. When you see the words 100% Synthetic on a bottle, such as in Motul’s H-Tech, 8100 and 300V ranges, that means that EVERY SINGLE DROP of oil in your bottle is a synthetically produced compound, mixed with fully synthetic additives. Guaranteed. SEMI SYNTHETIC, SYNTHETIC BLENDS AND SYNTHETIC TECHNOLOGY Many Synthetic Technology oils are made entirely of the aforementioned crude oils that have been synthesised into higher purity oils as mentioned prior, they’re just more honestly labelled. Once mineral oils, synthesised mineral oils and synthetic base stocks are mixed into different blends, this is where the terms “Semi-Synthetic” and “Synthetic Technology” come into play. Synthetic blend oils come with a wide degree of these labels, and generally they consist of some form of mineral oil that has been enhanced with Synthetic base stocks. Nowadays, the terms 'semi-synthetic', and 'synthetic base', are overused. These terms are also not regulated and therefore only a few drops of a synthetic base oil can be added to a mineral base oil to make it a “semi-synthetic”. Obviously the performance and protection of such a lubricant will be more like a mineral product than a synthetic product. Motul only uses one term for its semi synthetic technology – Technosynthese. Motul's Technosynthese® lubricants are made from a very special blend of different synthetic base oils which can also include esters and mineral base oils for optimising performance, whilst considering market price implications. Many Technosynthese® lubricants can achieve the most demanding and stringent OEM approvals, which is a testament of their performance and quality. There’s so much confusion when it comes to oil, but by doing your research and investing in a trusted brand such as Motul, you can avoid the marketing spin that comes with a great deal of engine oils. Look for 100% synthetic on the label, and do your research when considering investing in a full or semi-synthetic oil. In other words - "should burn mint in your coal roller" lol.
  18. brocky41

    diesel spam

    I tried the half and half used atf and diesel in my td27 navara for around a year 20,000kms with no problems at all. Then i got greedy and got a 205L drum of unknown ratio petrol diesel mix (fresh from rentals) and the pump seals cried enough. I had to laugh when the garage that pulled it off was asked by the pump re builder "what the hell is this guy running the thing on cos there's shit everywhere in it and it smells like oil and petrol". My garage said they'd have a word to me but they knew what i was doing. Petrol was definately the culprit as im now running my ride on with that same 205L - should have tried that first lol. I had also been running the ATF straight from the flush machine so some sort of filtering prior is a must. The $1000 bill hurt so havent done it in that diesel since - next up the TD27T Terrano lol. Anyone else have wacky ideas
  19. brocky41

    diesel spam

    Also run on filtered chip fat / used atf and itll pay for itself in lol's in no time. Ah the smell of a good fush and chup while your out on the water.
  20. Ill Swap you steelies aaaannddd hubcaps lol - but serious.
  21. For Skope - get earlybird tickets if still available - $40 for the 3 days or its $40 single saturday, $50 single sunday
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