brocky41

Hi Guys - sorry to barge in on the thread but I'm parting this 4 door out in Christchurch also. Have just joined that facebook group also, hopefully I can help a few people out. Great old cars with lots of quirks. Cheers Brock 0273380347

Hi guys, I have a TD27T D21 Terrano. Not the most powerfull diesel on the market but it gets us by. Just wondering if its worth getting a boost tap and guage and throwing a few more pounds at it as ill be doing a bit more towing from now on with it. Its auto so ill do the trans cooler aswell. Recently had the fuel pump rebuilt and its better than it was (was leaking internally and only ran with a 12V aux pump). Intercooler worth doing? Any help or advice much appreciated.

Good work man - If it was really clangy on start up it could be one or more injectors causing an issue. I had an LD that sounded like it wanted to throw a rod, banging around on start up. Also really hard to start - huge drain. After a quick injector swap was all gravy. I like this is still getting upgrades also.

Parts that take any normal person an eternity to do find / give up / have to wait for nos stock to roll around, and you bust them out from nothing in a "Lunch break" with "only a few tools" lol. So much admiration for your skills. Keep up the awesome work.

May have already been said but blocked heater core? had an engine with similar issues and bypassing heater fixed it, then i replaced the core. My 1c.

What is the H165 out of? From memory the 1200 ute housings with axles bolted up (all were H165) although hard to find these days. If from a 910 or similar make sure you dont have to pump the guards to make up for any extra width. How badly are you breaking them? I must have had the worlds strongest H150 in old TUFDAT - 5 years of absolute abuse (shown below) and it only got a little noisey lol. TBH its last 2 years were run with 100% lucas oil stabilizer as the diff oil. That stuff really works.

Those frost plugs look like they are a little bit of an issue for L and R series nowadays - the test of time is starting to creep up on them i'd say. 2x L series (one LD and one L26) ive pulled of late have met their demise through frost plug issues. I suppose it depends how looked after the cooling system is previous to you. If it was me i'd smash a quality new water pump on there as well just to be sure. Its great to see this this still out being used - keep up the good work.

Might be an option? https://www.yaldhurstmuseum.co.nz/storage-services/ Im sure they would love a Niva.

Also what is it costing to "fill" on the various chargers? Nice to see real life running and costs from a genuine OSer.

Would make an awesome soapbox derby car

Yea that bonnet is the best ive seen bar the 2 i have. Get it hammered out and fixed properly plus fill it with stuff to keep the rust away once its done. Last owner before me said they had replaced the lower sections of all the doors so obviously not prepared or sealed properly. The rear guard area is a problem on 90% of datsuns - just needs a small amount of water to start fizzing in the join. Yes you will constantly be catching rust - but a whole lot less than most peoples classics.

What about Barrel Bros in Aus? Also - this is gonna look so good on those - glad its getting the love it deserves.

Wow you can buy lots of steel panel stuff for that - im sure there will be parts still in Sweden/Scandinavia and the likes. I got a front guard and boot lid for one of my Cedrics from Norway of all places. Keep up with the build, I may have to join you on a welding course. One word when stripping down - lots of ziplock bags. I didnt think i liked Saabs but this thing is awseome.

Well what a machine - great work on the rebuild too

LD20+T

Found the one i did - was in the C231 Laurel hardtop (wish i kept this one). This was 3 coats plus heatgun after the last coat - make sure coats are sprayed horizontal, vertical then diagonal - seemed to work legit. Chris's oil thing worked too - i was going to sand the letters back etc and polish.

@CUL8R has done a couple of great jobs on rocker covers with the VHT stuff. - any pics Chris? Just make sure the missus is out so you can bake it in the oven (well sort of with the 6 cyl) Also I have no idea where to make / buy those bushes for the subframe - you could ring around the genuine dealerships until you get a @Brdflu kinda parts guy that loves to find the old stuff. Ball joints and the like are still available aftermarket if they need replacing.

Great work - my boss was a Citroen specialist in Christchurch years ago. If you get stuck im sure help is just around the corner. I helped sort his DS21 Pallas last year before he sold it - they are not a complicated as you think and are actually fun to drive (especially on 3 wheels lol) Pics for inspiration

That old green 330 i had was and still is the quietest car on the road ive ever driven - driving at 100kph and being able to talk in a normal voice to anyone in the car was nice. One day ill get back to quiet motoring. Spam but this thread needs more build pics lol

Ill measure them up this weekend - life gets in the road as usual

Update and shitty phone pic - 1x piece of the puzzle. looks like Mk1 and Mk2 share similar floorpan and seat mounts. Got home tonight with it and just had to get in the shed and try it. Thanks to @d.p.n.s for digging this out. Will most likely recover in the green at later date. Next is seatbelts and folding up some bumper brackets.

Nice work - great progress so far. +1 for twin round headlights too.

Currently looking for rear bumper brackets for 63-64 cortina - i have no idea what they should even look like. If someone has a pic of them that would be most helpfull

I was going to say early and late Mk1 but i see yours is an airflow. My non airflow sedan has them

Yip $35-$60 Buck right there