KKtrips

Those bits from Ashvegas prove to be any good?

You'll probably need tech approval for that but I've seen inboard brake lines etc. before. For simplicity sake because you'll need a lot more of room for all that then can you delete the booster and run bigger master or more leverage? Or run a remote booster?

EGT's are EGT's - the difference is where the source of the heat is. Maybe my terminology is less than perfect. By internal I meant the source of the heat is created inside the combustion chamber and external meant the source of the heat is created outside the combustion chamber (namely - inside the exhaust port and downpipe) I think I adequately explained HOW those high EGT's are created in my post. To me 720 is a fairly average EGT - if you want to make power then the by product is high EGT so I'm not afraid of them as long as my motor doesn't constantly sit in the high end of the spectrum.. 900 would be my safe (soft) limit and 1200 is my absolute limit that I would rarely want to encounter and even then only for brief encounters. Much like I hate seeing the needle touch the red on my water temp gauge but it happens occasionally. 900c EGT is the equivalent of just above half way on the cooling temp gauge and I have no issues veering into that zone every now and then if I'm giving it a hard time. However I have junked at least one diesel motor by running excessive boost and fuel so maybe I push the limit a bit hard. But by fuck it was a fun and fast car. If you think I am talking bullshit then you don't have to listen to what I have to say nor do anything of what I say - you have a choice.

It depends on if your high EGTs are the result of internal or external combustion. High internal EGTs are a result of heaps of power being made but the engine is loaded up so is too slow to turn that energy into force and cannot be utilised so instead it is turned into heat. High external EGTs are a result of diesel fuel still burning as it exits the motor because diesel is a notoriously slow burning fuel or sometimes it is unburnt diesel being ignited by a hot spot in the exhaust. Internal is hard on engine components like pistons, blocks and heads and can be quickly catastrophic. External is hard on exhaust valves and turbos, generally it fucks things a little slower but you can still junk them in a long slog up a big hill. Neither type is all that good and it is hard to determine from just a gauge whether a high EGT is the result of an internal or external process but safe to say that it is a sure sign of bad shit happening. My call is get an EGT gauge and keep it below 1200, preferably below 900.

If you dont want to get the right pump then you can go the rough and ready mode. Wind the full load adjustment screw in 1 full turn and go for a low speed, high load test to see if it improves things, then wind in another turn and test then another turn and test etc... until it starts chooching too much black smoke and then wind it back a turn. If you are concerned at all about this method of adjustment being a bit too rough as guts for your needs then get an EGT gauge and use that to monitor your engine for excessive exhaust temp which will be a sure sign of killing the engine.

Non turbo version Turbo version with the boost compensator (the highest part in the picture)

Turbo pumps will have an aneroid boost modulator which will increase the fuel volume as the boost pressure rises. Without it you are just increasing the wind without an appropriate fuel adjustment. You could get by without a boost compensator by cranking in a fuckload of fuel in to start with but then it will be super rich off boost and chooch heaps of black smoke.

My middle name is danger...

I'm Spartacus. /3 days late to the party.

I thought I could avoid the temptation to pun the night away, but it appears I can knot.

Clint, dahling. If I go from a 2 piece driveshaft to a 1 piece do I need a recert or would I get by with dropping by the certifier so they can get some new pictures and they can sight the receipt for making/balancing? I expect I would have to ditch one driveshaft loop to keep the range of movement.

My bucket rims were bolted through the rim into the ends of the ”spokes". They were also an interference fit. I had to heat the barrel in the oven for 10 minutes after leaving the centres in the freezer overnight when I was putting them together.

Thats like 6319lbs. No worries mate

They look cool - just ditch the bullet caps in the pdf below because they look naff. http://www.cragarwheel.com/images/medialibrary/Cragar_377.pdf Load rating is 1580 (I assume that is lbs and per wheel) Surely the Buick isn't +6000lb's

You can see the factory Radir wheels were done the same way. (see the join between the band and centre)

Berry Chung used to cast their own centres (as per the pic below) and then bolted them into an outer band. They were sweet from my own experience (my T-bucket had BC wheels, the rears were one piece cast but the fronts were 2 piece) The mould above would be sweet if the spokes were a little thicker at the thin end and concave rather than convex. Who knows how to make a suitable mould from a set of Supreme's?

How hard is it to send a Supreme to Rota and get some cast ones made and chromed...

Oh if you want an excuse then try that you have an uncomfortable attraction to your bosses boss and things might get awkward if you mix in alcohol.

Handjobs while watching the sun set?

Looking super sweet man. If you want a spacesaver in 5x120 then grab a BMW one. It's not quite 5x120.65 but for the small amount of time you will use it,it will be adequate. I have a 16" spacesaver out of a beamer in the boot of my Commy because the spare wheel well is half full with amplifiers.

Car out of lockup - fueled up and ready for drive. Gunna be good as long as the weather plays ball.

Considered mounting a steering rack on a custom crossmember and slinging it in? Could probably even buy one ready made? In fact a google search came up with this. Looks like a piece of cake for someone of your skills Clint.