KKtrips

A tad over 6 months later, water leak is now fixed and to boot I scored a clean sheet WoF today. Even gave it a wash. www.boringandreliableretrocars.com

Yay it's a Friday this year

No they aren't recorded anywhere. However cars are pretty decently photographed during the cert inspection so if you change the wheels and have a whoopsie then it will pretty easy to figure out they are different. If the wheels have the offset marked on the wheels via a casting or even a sticker, then you can be pretty confident that would have been captured in a picture by the certifier. But if there was no evidence of the offset at cert time and you only changed the offset marginally and had the same looking wheels then it would be harder to tell. Even though it's pretty unlikely thst subtly changed offset wheels would have that much of an impact on the safety of the car but substantially changed offset wheels would definitely be noticeable to look at when compared

You can borrow mine fella. Pretty sure I won't need it until I get the wag back from the panelbeaters in about a month. I'll be at my lockup on Saturday if you want to grab it. (just remind me to check the tyres on the Commy are pumped up before you take it - LOL)

It's to make sure the job is done by a reputable person or that parts are what the owner says they are. It's also to save the owner a shitload of money because otherwise the certifier will need to do a lot more stripping of the car to check parts are what they are claimed to be or they would need to make mid-build visits to sign off on the parts as they are installed. All of which needs to be charged for, naturally. Admittedly there is not much stopping someone from fraudulently representing their purchases but these are caught quite often at the various checks along the way and also if something happens to the vehicle once it is certified and it can be proved that the owner lied then they can be strung up by the ballsacks.

Can I steal this photo for educational purposes please?

Go the Lime

Definitely needs handles.

I suggested suicide doors 2 years ago. Even mocked it up for you. LOL

I'm using Walker McCluskie in Newtown on John St. But don't snake my booking spot. LoL

Yup. Outside of calliper furtherest away from master cylinder first. Then inside of that one, then move to the next furtherest outside... etc.

No, do one calliper/corner at a time.

Always start with the furtherest away from the master cylinder. Callipers with dual bleed nipples, whatever is further away from the brake hose inlet.

I bought mine from BOC in Wellington but had to order it the day before. (may depend on your branch) Cost me $50 or so for 5kg and it came in a polystyrene box so you shouldn't need a chilly bin. I don't think it was much more for 10kg so figure out if you think you can do it with just 5kg before putting in an order. See my build thread to see how much 5kg of dry ice is, I put about 80% on one side of the car where most of the sound deadening was.

Yeah I had the Commy slam panel brackets powdercoated by them today. Never asked if they did blasting but I'm pretty sure they don't.

Any idea how that would translate into a cost for a motorbike frame? Specifically my C90? I've tried calling him and he is super evasive giving a price. He didn't even want to give me a ballpark to within.

OK so a bevvy of parts arrived from the states in the last couple of days. Heaps of electrical bits and a rear guard plus an aftermarket conversion kit for engine mount (so no longer need my home made one) Also my parts bike arrives from Dunedin on Sunday night, plan is to rip into full mock up on Monday and Tuesday. Maybe even try and kick it into life next week before full strip down and paint.

Ask yourself. What would Lemmy do?

Also you can run the pipes under the subframe and mount the mufflers in the rear guards if you want ground clearance.

Mate, a straight pipe and a couple of Cobys exiting through the sill and shit will be cash.

New inspirational photos of a Deluxe cub WITH a full rear fender... mmmmm mmm yummy

Tonight's job was making the engine mount, engineers, please bare with me cos this may be painful to look at, but my engineering skills ain't that flash.. First was put the engine where I wanted it to sit and measure the distance between centres from the original engine mount location to the new mount location. (which was 30mm BTW) Next cut some 50mm x 6mm strap to 50mm lengths giving me 50x50x6 plates. Drill 2 pilot holes 30mm apart along the centre line of the plate and drill them to 11mm (10mm bolt plus wiggle) Cut down the sides to a nice taper then repeat x 2 Next measure the gap from the engine to the plates with them bolted in, each side was different (8mm one side and 10mm the other) Also cut a spacer to go where the engine used to sit (90mm wide but I fucked up so have to add a wee washer on one side to pack it out) Fit the plates with spacers and tighten it all up, VOILA! a mount is born. And here are all the parts back out of the bike. I intend to radius the corners of the plates and weld the small spacers to the plates and then weld the plates to the frame. But I ran out of time tonight. It was incredibly strong as it was by just tightening up the bolts, but for longevity I reckon its probably best to weld the plates in place. I may linish down the smaller spacers yet, because it might be a mission to get the engine in and out with the snugness it possesses currently. Anyhow if you have any criticism then fire away. Although this seems a much easier method than the way other people have described to me how they did it. Also I won't be using threaded rod in the final version - I just used it for mock up purposes this time around.

It looks exactly the same spec as this. (even down to the unusual clutch fork/lever arrangement - I've been told that normally they are horizontal pull - mine is vertical) https://assassindirtbikes.com.au/store/engines/lifan-125cc-r-race-big-bore-engine-motor-dirt-bike-assassin-dhz-thumpstar-atomik-1372.html Also, I now believe that this will bolt straight into your frame, it's only the C90 frames that need engine mount modification.

and trains

Endorsed by admin. When I am in need of an area rep, I always reach for a Kickers. *ad jingle* Get yours now before they sell out, .99c * at all fine fuel establishments. *recommended retail price, your retail experience may differ