KKtrips

You and everyone else / me too

Ride Height is plus minus 5%

Yup temporary seat removal is the only other thing. Gold star for Terry.

You can request your plate is made without a rego number on the plate. PS - are you going to get a PP for your car? I might know a guy who MIGHT be able to arrange your new PP on it. (I'm not promising but I can try) edit - FWIW - a mismatching rego number is one of the only 2 things that is not required to match on the cert plate for a WoF.

@Dudley as @Bling said, part of the form is filled out by the certifier. You could just take the parts to an NDT lab and ask them to crack test them, but without the form they won't know what result the certifier is looking for and you may have to redo it if it is wrong, so it is better if the certifier gives you this form and it is done right the first time. Without the form is like asking a builder to build a garden shed without any idea of where and how the customer wants it built.

@Dudley the certifier will give you the form you need, called the F008, take it to the test lab with the struts. Ask the certifier, what he would like to see around identifying the struts.

What year is the car?

What materials are they made from?

Unless you have short and super hard springs then 40mm of compression should be easy otherwise you are going to need lighter springs. Droop should be manageable too, just takes some braining to figure out the best way to adjust your adjustables to get it.

Running adjustable coil overs? Keeper springs might be your saving grace.

It can't touch the body at any point. But probably 5mm is enough clearance.

FYI - below is what the LVVTA exhaust noise standard says in regards to the maximum dB limits. I'm guessing your rotary is probably closer to 95dBA. A 6-10dB increase is what most human ears would detect as doubling loudness. Decibel level requirements 2.9(1) The maximum permissible decibel level emitted by a low volume vehicle tested in accordance with this standard, must not, except for in the case of where factoring must be applied for one or more of the situations specified in 2.9(2) to 2.9(4), exceed: (a) in the case of a moped (LA or LB-Class), 91 dBA; or (b) in the case of a motorcycle with an engine capacity of 125 cc or less (LC, LD or LE-Class), 96 dBA; or (c) in the case of a motorcycle with an engine capacity of more than 125 cc (LC, LD or LE-Class), 100 dBA; or (d) in the case of an MA, MB, MC, MD1, MD2, or NA-class vehicle that was manufactured before 1 January 1985, 95 dBA; or (e) in the case of an MA, MB, MC, MD1, MD2, or NA-class vehicle that was manufactured on or after 1 January 1985: (i) if first registered in New Zealand before 1 June 2008, 95 dBA; or (ii) if first registered in New Zealand on or after 1 June 2008, 90 dBA. NOTE 1: The decibel figures specified in 2.9(1) are the figures set by the Government, as specified in Land Transport Rule: Vehicle Equipment Amendment 2011, and may change from time to time as Government policy dictates. Such changes will be reflected in an amendment to this low volume vehicle standard. NOTE 2: ‘dB’ refers to ‘decibels’, and the ‘A’ denotes ‘A-weighted decibels’, which is an adjustment process that takes into account the varying sensitivity of the human ear, to different decibel levels at different frequencies. Low frequency sounds are quieter to the human ear. The ‘A’ weighting curve primarily takes into account the 500-10,000 Hz frequency range.

I think I am doing a terrible job of explaining, LoL, The law allows a vehicle that meets a recognised overseas requirement or standard (even if it is different to NZ requirements or standards) so it does not need to meet the equivalent NZ requirement or standard.

I wouldn't call this overly rowdy or any rowdier than a fairly heavily modified small block Chev in a Camaro

I don't know the exhaust noise emission standard that the new Mustang meets but it would have had to have met one to acquire the compliance documentation. Manufacturers don't just build a car and say "she'll be right Trev" and then kick it out the door and let the country where it is going to assess the vehicle. It's safe to assume that some international standards are more relaxed than LVVTA standards, but the same standard in another region might be harsher than LVVTA. During entry compliance a vehicle must have compliance documentation for a standard that is recognised in NZ. So as long as you are willing to go through the required testing regime and meet a non LVVTA standard then it can be accepted too. But you can't cherry pick a portion of a complex FMVSS standard and say your vehicle meets that standard but test part of it using the testing regime from a less complex but more strict LVVTA standard. The LVVTA system was created so the average person can afford to build a car without spending 10's of thousands of dollars proving a vehicle meets a standard.

The box looks to be in front of the front suspension beam which rules out 7.13.1 (a) I am surprised that a Safari doesn't have a collapsible column which would allow option (b) So from the info you have given, then option (c) and (e) are your best options

Do they actually make the car louder immediately on pressing the button, or does the button only permit the computer to divert exhaust through the louder path when parameters are met/as required? Also it is typical that with OE systems of this type, the loudest setting is still not greater than the law allows and the default setting is quiet. I think it is highly unlikely that the factory has a button that diverts the exhaust to open headers at the touch of a button. However I could be wrong as I don't know every vehicle. An OE fitment will have had to meet a vehicle standard like FMVSS or an alternative Jap or Euro standard before it could be entered into the vehicle fleet and some FMVSS and Jap and Euro standards are less restrictive than LVVTA standards. But they can be less restrictive because they have much more expensive testing regimes like sound testing booth or drive-by sound testing laboratories etc. So, if you want to comply to a less restrictive FMVSS standard then submit your vehicle for an FMVSS assessment and pay the $100's of thousands of dollars too. LoL

Where is the rack/box? In front of or behind the front crossmember?

No vehicle can have a driver switchable exhaust. But a car can be fitted with an automated switching exhaust. But the "open" position has to be below the legal limit. So a "legal" setting and "quieter" setting if you will.

A little more progress. The side covers look BOSS!! Just ordered a bunch of other new parts, still a lot to do, all small shit, its just progress trying to figure out exactly what I need to buy. Next step is @kicker dragging his welder around to finish welding all the bits of steel together.

No it's not, but that's one way to come across as a bit of a dick.

Probably installed badly or misaligned side to side, no reason they should wear any faster that I know of

Hard to say, they don't look like any I have seen before when I've looked at drop boxes and my first thought is they look flimsy, but @cletus has probably seen more of them than I have and might say they're fine. Are you trying to correct caster? If so perhaps some caster correction bushes like these will be cheaper and simpler. https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/parts-other-makes/suspension/listing-2348608138.htm?rsqid=2646445784534f89861fb5bb04fde7dd-001

Seatbelt anchorages standard here - https://lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards/LVVTA_STD_Seatbelts_& Seatbelt_Anchorages.pdf Lower anchorages normally go in the floor, upper anchorages go in the B-pillar.

That's a big 10-nope rubber ducky. You can have power steering deleted in a rack but it must be done by a known and reputable steering specialist and an invoice must be provided to the certifier as evidence. No idea how they do it, but that's why they are the expert and I'm not. LoL (if you are unsure of your steering specialist is known and reputable then talk to your certifier for a name he trusts)