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cletus

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Everything posted by cletus

  1. the usual belltech/chassis tech bolt in notches are no good IMO, i have seen the chassis crack on a couple of them not even used for towing. for cert i usually get them to weld it in properly, and cap the inside of the rail as well. shocks need relocating too cause they end up on spastic angles and dont do very much, and drive like shit. the last one i certed was a SWB 454SS, it drove sweet after fixing all the cockups, i was a bit tempted myself to buy it. went good too. one of these as for a way round having to convert one younger than 20years- there isnt one as far as i know. thats why they are cheap when they need converting, because its so expensive to get done properly. as for driving with the handlebars on the wrong side, the only time its a bit tricky is passing, turning left onto a busy road( not bad in a truck as you can look out the back window) and drive-thrus
  2. theres nothing in the book that specifically says cam belt covers must be fitted it does mention in the external projections standard that any exposed drive pulleys must have an effective cover or guard, but that refers to pulleys outside the vehicle ie a blower belt drive
  3. What year truck are you looking at? it is still possible to cert a RHD conversion, it is more difficult than it used to be mostly due to advances in safety, ie air bags all have to swap over and work, this includes things like weight sensors in the seats, etc etc. it is a very big job. older pre airbag trucks arent as bad but it is still a major job getting it right. We dont do a lot of RHD conversion certs any more, due to that SIV rule where new mustangs/camaros etc dont have to be converted, most of the vehicles getting done that im aware of are the larger pickups, most of which are over 3500kg so they get certed under the heavy vehicle certification system not LVV. if i was looking at buying one personally, id be looking at an older left hook one. there are many pretty average conversions around which are never as nice as a factory one, things like the dash never really fits perfectly, heaters are often bodged together, squeaks and rattles when driving etc....
  4. so, how many kilograms of underseal, rustflakes, and dirt went directly into your eyeballs?
  5. you may not have to do anything with the sills. you could fit the connectors, check how much twist is in a stock 2 door with a roof, then check how much you get with the convertible. if the convertible has less movement than the original car, job done. different certifiers would probably have different opinions on what needs to be done as well, might pay to talk to your local guy and see what he says
  6. Are you sure its a crack and not just a scratch? odd place for a crack. like Ktrips said, i also used to do bazillions of mazda rocker cover gaskets at my old job to fix this problem. also make sure you replace the little rubber washers under each rocker cover nut
  7. i havent done a convertible yet, its not very common these days but i think if you replicate what the factory does or something like that, would be a good plan. if it was me id make some chassis rails that tie those front and rear chassis sections together, and run some reinforcement down the insides of the sills. i made some chassis connectors for my sedan when i put the v8 in it,, it made a big difference, the doors open and shut with it jacked up on a corner now
  8. cletus

    PAINT THREAD

    long term. well as long as a cheap paint is going to last anyway. cheers
  9. cletus

    PAINT THREAD

    I have 4 litres of satin black acrylic top coat for my ute, is this actually worth putting on if i paint it in a black epoxy primer like DP50?
  10. cletus

    1GGE=T

    too big turbo on an engine with no torque is not fun to drive. have driven a number of rb20 powered things with oversized china turbos, they mostly suck. power happens too late in the rev range, you have to cane it to get the most out of it, fine for a racetrack but no good for practical road use
  11. http://image.sporttr..._right_view.jpg because of the shape of the guards, they dont tuck much /at all even when the chassis is on the deck drop spindles front, notch chassis and relocate springs rear or go to a 4 link/coilovers. depending on what your springs are like you might be able to get the spring eyes reversed for more drop. if the leafs get reset so much they curve the wrong way, it will ride like shit
  12. i think its cool that you kept it all those years in storage, unchanged. i usually get sick of a car, sell it, then wish id kept it 6 months later
  13. i would recommend Tim at TTT auto , he does nice work
  14. you could remove it, the main problem would be replacing the strength/stiffness in the floor that you will lose by cutting that part out Mounting the seat would be another issue, there are different ways of doing that depending on what you do with that box section
  15. why do you do a mold of both sides? is that so you can make a part that matches the original more closely? great write up
  16. did it still have the old fibre gear when it stripped it?
  17. This. tig loves the gas compared to a mig nice work , those mounts look great.
  18. kingstars will try to kill you at the slightest hint of any moisture near the roads surface
  19. For motorsickles, i would contact Alex Gee, he specialises in 2 wheeled devices and is out west Or Neil Fraser does bikes as well http://lvvta.org.nz/documents/suplementary_information/CertifierList-Website.pdf
  20. what sort of falcon 6? could you adapt a multirib belt drive instead? for some reason, all the tossed or shredded belts ive ever seen at the drags have been "gilmer" type belts
  21. ha. now i know why i had to trim down the earth pin on my welder when i got it a few years ago didnt know there was a different plug
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