Ranter

Thanks Beaver, thought I'd read that somewhere but cert guy didn't sound keen. Will talk to him again. That'll be why it was done that way then I guess, it is a big block Charger that has been abit of a weekend drag racer. I don't know a lot about this American stuff so comments like that save me fucking things up in the future, cheers.

Shouldn't be as you need to use a testing station to get it back on the road anyway. I have a car here with solid engine mounts, do I need to also solid mount the transmission? (or rubber mount engine) for a mod cert.

Fuck Moreys, I use it in old steering boxes only. We have a boat spec 400hp 454 ex Hamilton Jet. Built by some joker in Queenstown who apparently builds the engines for all the river boats down there, we have put in an old Chevy C10 and it goes fine. (if a little fucking scary) Do you know if there would use a special cam grind for the boat engines? If so what would be the best grind to replace it with?

You can go to vinz or aa also.

Carb? 4*BTDC +/- 2 at idle is what my book says, usually just advance it until it knocks and back it off a bit. They are super sluggish especially autos, make sure thermostat is good and all water hoses are clear to the carb. Run 95 or better fuel. Sometimes also their super shit carbs idle too high causing run on.

Don't know what kind of room you have in there but they're cheap and real good quality out of the states. The SC 400/ Soarer ones go for about $340 Kiwi + shipping on Ebay which is stupid cheap, they're compact too and looking at them I thought they'd be good for re power jobs. Might be an option anyhow.

If you find the V6's that have been in the country long enough or are NZ new Toyota replaced the blocks under warranty, head gaskets weren't really the problem the block would corrode and need to be decked. With regard to the Isuzus they are way more spendy to rebuild than the rest, crome lined bore means re- sleeving so they were about 2 grand dearer than Toyota's and Mitsis. The 3.0L overhead cam Isuzu diesels you should avoid, they are cheap but also completely shit.

What vacuum hose does the fuel pump have? Its not the drain/vapour release is it? If it ran alright before you commenced work on it then leave the carb alone. Start it and rev the shit out of it (after you disconnect running fuel vapour into your intake) then drive it. If you have rebuilt it I assume you replaced rings they ain't gonna like idling they need some load to bed in.

I had a compensator added when I threw a turbo at our old B2200 work truck, it wouldn't return to idle properly without one. You should be able to use one off any Jap pump, though something is ringing a bell about a spacer now. I just used a diesel pump specialist. Also no fucks are given about an added turbo to a diesel come WOF time, nor should there be. A 20% increase of fuck all is still fuck all. Testing stations have never given a stuff, and my current guy is super tough and doesn't care.

A lot of mechanics would do the same thing. But it sounds like your gonna need one sometime. Maybe pay one to take it for a drive with a fuel pressure tester? You can narrow it down a lot from that.

I have never seen it completed without it getting spendy and them using a Toyota box. There are 2wd manual V6 Tritons but finding a box for one would be near impossible. If you go ahead use a 6g72 MIVEC engine, 200kw to start with.

I'm heading along there this arvo but likely during normal work hours. No doubt again on Sunday to pick up my car.

I use VTNZ Jipco Rd, off Parkhouse Rd. Old car friendly as one of the guys is in the Vintage Car Club.

Have a Starlet that needs paint, when I see it again I will give you a ring and see what you think. Also having a nightmare regarding fibreglass with my panel shop and want no further dealings with them, don't suppose you work with that crap?

No.

100%

It'll be fine, certing that stuff is just taking it all abit far. How many Minis have the correct size engine in them?

My ones are different with the later injection so may not be the same, they don't have the outlet in the second pic at all so no help there. In the first pic, 1st one goes to vacuum advance on the distributer, second one goes all the way around the engine bay to the airbox via a switch above the brake booster.

Go to Beatson Motors for a wheel alignment, at Paterson Bros in Worcester Street. He is the best I've found in town, and I've tried a lot. Great on new cars too because like tyre shops franchise dealerships can't do it either.

We are talking with the turbo on the inlet side? A nice cheap one is delivered, reconditioned and seller pays you. They only went as good as a normal 1600 with massive problems. My business partners' Mum bought one new, turbo worked only on that first day, he was a Mitsi tech at the time and they were forever seizing wastegates, blowing turbo seals and even a good one would use a sump of oil going to the coast. Traded as soon as the 1800 ones came out and we still have that 28 years later. I'd fit a non turbo 1600 or 2000 from a Sigma.

Use Wurth Windscreen sealant MS1. My windscreen guy swears by it and I swear by all Wurth products and tools that I have.

I guessing you mean G62T? (1800ccTurbo)If you are fucking around with a 1600 Cordia Turbo engine then you are the only one, don't bother. If I recall there was some starter motor to flywheel differences in fwd to rwd conversion, its been a long time but someone else here will fill you in.

FWD = Narrow block

The Proma stuff is the go, I've used it in my ex's Lantis (for the last 100,000kms+) and a lot of Mitsubishis and tappet noise comes back after about 8-9000kms. Used to be only sold at Mitsubishi so that proves its worth, they would gone through boxes of the stuff. It is the only additive of any kind I'll use.

You Starion tragic! Nice to see that car in good hands though. Was it less engine?